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The New Swirl Killer!!


Chris@Adams

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Guys and gals I played around with my new Swirl Killer 15mm. Long throw polisher.

I used my panel that I keep in my garage for testing,

I first scuffed and scratched the panel with a Scotch-Brite pad.

Started first with the Blue Foam pad & HCC followed by Orange foam pad & CP then finally White Foam pad &FP.

As you can see the Swirl Killer did a great job, and I must say it was comfortable to use and I love the long cord! It is a very nice machine at any price point IMHO.

Check out the before & after pics.

IMG_3262.JPGIMG_3264.JPG

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Wow. Talk about perfect timing. Haven't been here for a couple of months and I was shocked at all the new products.

 

Well, I did a full correction on my new Camaro a couple of months ago and was shocked at the results (in a good way). Also tried to correct my girlfriend's car, a heavily oxidized 2010 Toyota Corolla. I only own the Porter Cable which didn't perform as well as I needed as it didn't get all the swirls out of the Camaro and barely put any shine on girlfriends car. Didn't know this but Toyota used a single stage paint on many of their vehicles. Mostly white I believe. Really hope I can save it but it's pretty bad. If you own an older Toyota, definitely keep it waxed/sealed.

 

Anyway, I didn't want to spend the big bucks on a Rupes so the Swirl Killer looks perfect. Probably get used 3 or 4 times a year. Just ordered it along with heavy correcting polish and a bunch of pads. I'll do a write-up on girlfriend's car, hopefully next week. Wish me luck!

 

P.S. I think I'll convert Porter Cable into 4" polisher for headlamps, tight areas etc.

Edited by flyboy9994
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Wow. Talk about perfect timing. Haven't been here for a couple of months and I was shocked at all the new products.

 

Well, I did a full correction on my new Camaro a couple of months ago and was shocked at the results (in a good way). Also tried to correct my girlfriend's car, a heavily oxidized 2010 Toyota Corolla. I only own the Porter Cable which didn't perform as well as I needed as it didn't get all the swirls out of the Camaro and barely put any shine on girlfriends car. Didn't know this but Toyota used a single stage paint on many of their vehicles. Mostly white I believe. Really hope I can save it but it's pretty bad. If you own an older Toyota, definitely keep it waxed/sealed.

 

Anyway, I didn't want to spend the big bucks on a Rupes so the Swirl Killer looks perfect. Probably get used 3 or 4 times a year. Just ordered it along with heavy correcting polish and a bunch of pads. I'll do a write-up on girlfriend's car, hopefully next week. Wish me luck!

 

P.S. I think I'll convert Porter Cable into 4" polisher for headlamps, tight areas etc.

 

 

This is the exact demographic that would benefit perfectly from having the Swirl Killer in their arsenal. 

 

I also think you hit a winner winner, chicken dinner on the PC conversion!

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This is the conversation that may have just swung my decision. I have the same equipment as flyboy9994, with additional 4" pads that I use for headlights. I was going to get a cyclo so that I was boy needed 1 set of pads, but I already own both sizes, so why not just get an economical machine for me to use a few times a year?!?

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Not trying to knock the Swirl Killer, I'd love one myself, but I don't see how the PC couldn't get good results. I used one on a couple really trashed vehicles and got great results, you have to work slower and more deliberate, but it is a very effective tool for little money.

The PC will get the job done, however it will take longer and it's not as comfortable to use.

With the SK you won't get numb and tingling hands.

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Ok, I'll give it to you on the vibration, you'll feel the PC for a few hours after you've finished. I've not found it uncomfortable, but it is one of the only polishers I've used.

if u try a quality polisher like the cyclo or rupes u will never use that pc again unless u have to there a world of difference just in comfort alone
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Hi new here. wasn't looking for this particular topic not sure how I got here and see this post isn't that old ...

 

Anyways for the toyota super white you need to use a rotary. It's a single stage paint but is tough da won't touch it (though I will admit to not using a long throw on it I'd seriously doubt it if it's badly oxidized from a couple of super whites I've had)

 

I personally love single stage super white. I have a crazy metallic cleared truck now, I love it, but even so clears always look plasticy to me. most of my cars have been single stage reds, whites, etc in my life, only a few cleared and I just seem to notice the difference.

 

Here's my 9 year old tundra recently replaced with a sierra, it's bad pic it's overcast only some sun making it through and I had let it go a bit detailing wise as I was selling it, so was just keeping it up. this suffered from usual super white symptoms...oxidation, lack of polishing the paint. originally it was very dull, some extremely dull spots. It's been the way in this picture for 5 years since the clean up, easy to keep up if you polish once a year.

 

My schedule for the super white was wash,clay,rotary with compound & cutting foam pad (I use flex pe14 but larger ones will work). Follow with a polish (Adams or equivalent) and polish pad (I intend to use Adams soon but use megs and 3m). I never really bothered with post rotary swirl correction even in the light I couldn't see any like on a clear coat car. Polished correctly the super white is pretty blinding.

If the oxidation is bad enough I'd do a wool rotary on a super white in a heart beat, it's very hard paint to correct. I originally tried a few over the counters, switched to 205/105, eventually went with that and wool on a rotary with foam polish followup. 

 

After that all you need is regular synthetic wax, and once a year polish on foam (no compounding if you keep it up). Anyways the super white complaints are just a pet peeve I respond on tundra forums with the same info as it's not a mystery, it's a single stage, polish the paint and they'll look fantastic, I've seen guys get the trucks repainted when if they had just used the right polisher and products it would have been right.

 

 

 

 

Wow. Talk about perfect timing. Haven't been here for a couple of months and I was shocked at all the new products.

 

Well, I did a full correction on my new Camaro a couple of months ago and was shocked at the results (in a good way). Also tried to correct my girlfriend's car, a heavily oxidized 2010 Toyota Corolla. I only own the Porter Cable which didn't perform as well as I needed as it didn't get all the swirls out of the Camaro and barely put any shine on girlfriends car. Didn't know this but Toyota used a single stage paint on many of their vehicles. Mostly white I believe. Really hope I can save it but it's pretty bad. If you own an older Toyota, definitely keep it waxed/sealed.

 

Anyway, I didn't want to spend the big bucks on a Rupes so the Swirl Killer looks perfect. Probably get used 3 or 4 times a year. Just ordered it along with heavy correcting polish and a bunch of pads. I'll do a write-up on girlfriend's car, hopefully next week. Wish me luck!

 

P.S. I think I'll convert Porter Cable into 4" polisher for headlamps, tight areas etc.

post-15446-0-94578100-1484797055_thumb.jpg

Edited by reelbusy
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First off Welcome to Adam's Forums.  

 

I don't think you will have too many folks on here that will agree with you on using the rotary.  A good DA and MF pads with the correct Adams' polish will take care of almost any automotive paint issue that arises. 

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Hi I'd assume maybe with microfiber yeah, I've not used those so I can't say for sure.

 

my opinion if you grab a PC and some foam pad I think you'll be there all day and you will not get a shine, maybe some superficial shine but it won't make you close your eyes in the sun, you'll certainly get some oxidation for sure. You need more cut than that either with micro fiber or product yeah.

 

sounds like that's what happened.

 

But as mentioned I haven't used a long throw (nor have I used MF pads) so I can't speak for that, iirc I believe I've seen some discussion on other forums where they had good luck with the long throw and mike Phillips has an age old article which is a good one on super white paint (including one with an AIO on a super white toyota). I've read many good things about the MF cutting ability so I'd assume you are correct there, and no doubt some combination of that and Adams will work. 

 

that's just what I did and 5 years it stayed the same with only a once a year polish. I still polished once a year with a rotary on that and a foam pad, mainly because it worked, but also a full size is a lot of square feet, it needs to get done, one fender feels like 1/2 a corolla lol

 

Anyways I never had a problem with a rotary on that...I love em (flex pe), and  use those mostly for gelcoat and DA for the clear, but I broke it out on that when the products I had on hand (megs UC and megs 105 and a PC weren't cutting it at all, some oxidation removal is all) and those were all I had, this was also  5 years ago. So maybe something with a heavier cut than that.

 

But...you will of course have to be careful at edges so maybe not advised if you're not used to one, and try a safer combination for more cut on a long throw. 

 

That's certainly may not be the accepted or ultimately only way, but the pictures (unfortunately bad but in a Florida bright sun you would get white out staring into the panel)  show it works. Now I'll also say I never saw any evidence of halo's, swirls, as you would expect with using a rotary on a clear coat. But it's Florida, if it was was swirl city I'd notice it in this sun over 5 years. Certainly could have been some but non I noticed when the white is hit by light you can't look at it anyways. Also it's a work truck so 100% is not the goal.

 

anyways just 02c there, it can certainly open more discussion on another way to do it. I'm just throwing a pic that under no circumstances would a super white single stage be 'lost', and indeed can look imho better than clear, and you will need more cut than a PC and a foam pad.

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looking through pics from 5 years ago, this is the best I could find. this paint was dead white, no reflection, some good oxidized areas bad enough to look like wet sanded dull. Also should note I was fairly new to da's, rotaries, products, etc.

 

This actually got a better the next year when I followed up with the annual polish it further refined it. I should say though it only saw 7k miles a year so I was able to use that relaxed of a routine with just wax in between. But from dead white to that reflection with no clear. No shame in that all things considered.

 

claying is required on that, that super white will be full of dirt.

 

On toyota forums you'll find people actually thinking the paint has failed lol I guess no one is familiar with single stages these days they're all used to ignore my car for 5 years and it still has some shine clear coats, anyways I've read them all toyota repainted, I had my ___ cleared, the paint has failed, all because they go down to the auto store, grab a da or pc and throw some product on. Ultimately it is dull again in a month or few.

post-15446-0-89592500-1484974834_thumb.jpg

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