What to use to correct clear coated rims

[BrianT]

I have my wife's Durango rims off for the winter, I'd like to correct the finish. There aren't bad at all, but there off so why not make them pop!! My question is what do I use to get the clear coat flawless! I have a PC and a Rupes 15 mm, but they aren't gonna work, so I'm open to suggestions! Hand correcting is out of the question, claying was a pain so...

 

Here a pic of what the rim looks like

[shane@detailedreflections]

If they aren't bad, you can try revive hand polish. Another option is a backing plate on a drill, but be cautious of heat build up and striking through the clear coat. The good news is that the finish on the majority of wheels is significantly thicker than the paint on your car (I always measure before polishing).

 

Ideally you're in Rupes Nano territory to make quick and easy work of polishing them to perfection. But there are other methods.

[BRZN]

The Clear on most wheels is pretty thin, and easy to go through, so be careful. With the intricacy of those wheels Brian, the only choice I see other than by hand would be the Rupes Nano. A cordless drill set up with a 4" backing plate may get the front face. Trying to get the drill down into the nooks and crannies you'll risk touching the drill to the wheel.

[GXPaycheck]

You could buy something that Adam's doesn't sell (yet). The cone or the ball.

[LT1xL82]

If you are not correcting, but rather just want to "make them pop", Revive by hand is inexpensive, will work really well, and is virtually risk free.

 

Cones and Balls would give some muscle to the process IF NEEDED. Use care.

 

Regardless, this job is  excellent rationalization for a Nano! 

[BrianT]

 

Regardless, this job is  excellent rationalization for a Nano! 

My wife's cell phone number is 973-...-.... Feel free to call! Lol

 

I might try the cone, the clear is soft, so I'm gonna try by hand first I guess.

[bjoeaull]

I bought the rupes mini and while i was doing a set of gloss black rims, it did a great job.  But on another set of rims I have I really could use a nano.  Maybe one day...

 

Honestly hand polishing might actually get you a pretty good turn out on those.  Its not like they have to be perfect, just shined up a bit.

[vobro]

Rupes Nano works for me!

[BRZN]

The foam on the ball and cone is fairly aggressive. Try it in an inconspicuous spot first, and don't spend too much time in one spot. It was way too aggressive for raw aluminum and made marks. I've also removed clear from a wheel with a cordless drill, an Orange Foam Pad and PCP.

[GXPaycheck]

The foam on the ball and cone is fairly aggressive. Try it in an inconspicuous spot first, and don't spend too much time in one spot. It was way too aggressive for raw aluminum and made marks. I've also removed clear from a wheel with a cordless drill, an Orange Foam Pad and PCP.

Hard to focus when using PCP?

 

 

 

 

Couldn't resist. ;-)

[shane@detailedreflections]

The Clear on most wheels is pretty thin, and easy to go through, so be careful. With the intricacy of those wheels Brian, the only choice I see other than by hand would be the Rupes Nano. A cordless drill set up with a 4" backing plate may get the front face. Trying to get the drill down into the nooks and crannies you'll risk touching the drill to the wheel.

 

I'm a little bit surprised to hear you say the clear is thin.  My experience has been the opposite.  It's not often that I correct the finish on wheels though.  Usually more of a special circumstance, and when I do I use the Nano to maintain control.

 

In the wheels I've measured the coating thickness on, it typically comes up as at least twice as thick as the finish on the body of the vehicle.  That being said, that's the total coating thickness and it doesn't break down the difference between paint and clear coat.  I'd love to get my hands on the meter that separates the layers, but that's a bigger investment than I'm willing to make now since that unit is about $2500. 

Edited February 23, 2017 by medic001918

[Mrjoeman77]

Would some hand revive work or do I need to do some machine polishing? Thank you!

[Beemer]

There's no way you could fix that by hand.

[shane@detailedreflections]

There's no way you could fix that by hand.

Agreed. At least not in a reasonable time frame for benefit versus effort. You're definitely in machine polishing. And my gut says you're looking at starting with heavy correcting compound as step one and finishing down from there with correcting polish or finishing polish to achieve the best results.

 

Not a bad project to show the effects of different compounds/polishes though. I'd do it and take photos.

[Chris@Adams]

If they aren't  too bad I would try Revive Polish and a MF applicator by hand  followed by BG.....followed by PS.

[BrianT]

If they aren't  too bad I would try Revive Polish and a MF applicator by hand  followed by BG.....followed by PS.

My exact thought. What's funny Chris is you recommend glaze then sealant and I've always thought sealant then glaze. Why when thinking about my rims I for the first time thought about glaze then sealant?? It makes sense to me now!

[BrianT]

So I used the cone and FMP, and got okay results. They have no haziness now, but still have what I would describe as spiderwebs. My next step is to try some swirl and haze remover. I'm going over the areas with an electric drill as it is pretty light and easy to move. I'm not staying in any one spot for more then 2 seconds. I took pics, but you can't see the difference in the pics. I'll try again next weekend and post results.