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1st time paint corrector


Red Rambler

Question

Hello all. I purchased the PC from Adams over a year ago and purchased the orange/white paint correction kit with the pads and all the polish. I keep reading that there is a new and much improved formula for the paint correction, orange/white. What makes it so much better than the old? Would it be worth my time to purchase the new polish? I have over 1/2 of a bottle of the orange and 3/4 of the white left.

 

Here is my truck I'm working on. It's an 01 dodge 2500. It was a farm truck in its previous life but was taken care of. It does have many swirl marks/scratches that I am currently working out.

post-13084-0-52743300-1499829312_thumb.jpg

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Well, the new formula hasn’t less dust and corrects faster. But I would really recommend trying the correcting compound instead, it is a blue bottle, the stuff works great at efficiency cutting and removing swirls and scratches, and then you just polish afterwords. I would highly recommend Adams compound.

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Well, the new formula hasn’t less dust and corrects faster. But I would really recommend trying the correcting compound instead, it is a blue bottle, the stuff works great at efficiency cutting and removing swirls and scratches, and then you just polish afterwords. I would highly recommend Adams compound.

Thanks Nathan. I actually have the blue correcting compund and both pads on the way to me as we speak, by FedEx. Glad you recommended it.

 

I will most likely just add the blue compound to my process and make it a 3 step process, using the blue compound as step 1. I'm in no rush, doing one panel at a time now.

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Thanks Nathan. I actually have the blue correcting compund and both pads on the way to me as we speak, by FedEx. Glad you recommended it.

 

I will most likely just add the blue compound to my process and make it a 3 step process, using the blue compound as step 1. I'm in no rush, doing one panel at a time now.

 

Sounds like a great plan of action Keagan!  :2thumbs: 

 

The Blue Heavy Correcting Polish will make it much easier for you to correct the swirls and scratches rather than having to make multiple passes with the Orange Correcting Polish. 

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Sounds like a great plan of action Keagan!  :2thumbs:

 

The Blue Heavy Correcting Polish will make it much easier for you to correct the swirls and scratches rather than having to make multiple passes with the Orange Correcting Polish. 

That is what i am going for, quicker correction, the above picture I have already polished, basically two rounds of the orange cutting pad, and two rounds of the orange foam pad. Followed by the white and then paint sealant, but if the Blue works as i have read/been told, it should not take so many passes.

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That is a very clean 24v! Definitely a truck worth polishing! Good Luck! 

Thanks much, I'm proud of it for sure. Its an automatic, but finding a manual in as good of shape as this one was not going to happen for me. An auto transmission can be built the same as a manual, it only costs money lol.

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I received my Heavy Correcting Compound today, the below kit:

Blue/Orange Polish Kit

 

My question is in regards to the micro fiber pad for the orange polish. I no longer see the orange microfiber pad, only the orange foam pad. Is the below pad the correct microfiber pad to use for the orange polish?

 

adams_polishes_6_inch_blue_white_microfi

Edited by kmc3420
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I received my Heavy Correcting Compound today, the below kit:

Blue/Orange Polish Kit

 

My question is in regards to the micro fiber pad for the orange polish. I no longer see the orange microfiber pad, only the orange foam pad. Is the below pad the correct microfiber pad to use for the orange polish?

 

 

 

 

 

Microfiber pads have more cutting power than foam pads, so its better suited for the blue heavy correcting compound. But theres no rule saying you cant mix them up. Just be careful any time you use a microfiber pad on paint, and dont let it heat up.

Edited by Chonke
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Microfiber pads have more cutting power than foam pads, so its better suited for the blue heavy correcting compound. But theres no rule saying you cant mix them up. Just be careful any time you use a microfiber pad on paint, and dont let it heat up.

 

 

10-4. Thanks i guess my question would have been better suited asking, what replaced the orange pad below?

 

91qGyJe1TkL._AC_UL320_SR284,320_.jpg

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10-4. Thanks i guess my question would have been better suited asking, what replaced the orange pad below?

 

 

 

Oh the new white microfiber pads are supposed to cut a little better, and also easier to clean off the residue compared to the old pads. And they just switched the color to match the blue heavy compound. But you can still use the orange polish with the white microfiber pads if needed.

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Oh the new white microfiber pads are supposed to cut a little better, and also easier to clean off the residue compared to the old pads. And they just switched the color to match the blue heavy compound. But you can still use the orange polish with the white microfiber pads if needed.

 

Thanks Chonke, exactly what i was wondering. I assume it would still be safe to use the orange polish and new white microfiber pads as the blue Heavy Correcting Compound itself is likely to cut quicker than the orange paint correcting polish regardless of the pad used.

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Thanks Chonke, exactly what i was wondering. I assume it would still be safe to use the orange polish and new white microfiber pads as the blue Heavy Correcting Compound itself is likely to cut quicker than the orange paint correcting polish regardless of the pad used.

No problem. Yes, you can definitely use the orange polish with the white microfiber pads. Just still treat it as a heavy cutting tool regardless of the compound being used. Microfiber pads tend to heat up pretty quickly, so keep an eye out for that. 

A general rule is to start with the least aggressive method first, and work yourself up to whichever method works best for your paint.

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Thanks Chonke, exactly what i was wondering. I assume it would still be safe to use the orange polish and new white microfiber pads as the blue Heavy Correcting Compound itself is likely to cut quicker than the orange paint correcting polish regardless of the pad used.

You could use the correcting polish with the microfiber cutting pad, but I would not use it like that. Microfiber pads tend to heat up and to push the fibers down, and make the microfiber flat, so they don’t cut as fast or work as well. I would try the correcting polish (orange) with the orange foam pad first, then if you need stronger use the correcting compound (blue) with the microfiber cutting pad.

 

It would be safe to use and would work, but I wouldn’t do it.

 

Also, invade you didn’t know, you don’t need to do 3 steps, you can skip from the correcting compound to the finishing polish, that is if you have removed all the defects.

Edited by Nathan
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Agreed with the others, you can use the orange CP with the blue/white MF cutting pad. The orange/black one is no longer being sold on their site.

 

Also, get one of the pad cleaning brushes to help lift the fibers, like what Nathan pointed out, and also to help clean them.

 

Nice lookin' truck. Can't wait to see more pics of the finished product!

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You could use the correcting polish with the microfiber cutting pad, but I would not use it like that. Microfiber pads tend to heat up and to push the fibers down, and make the microfiber flat, so they don’t cut as fast or work as well. I would try the correcting polish (orange) with the orange foam pad first, then if you need stronger use the correcting compound (blue) with the microfiber cutting pad.

It would be safe to use and would work, but I wouldn’t do it.

Also, invade you didn’t know, you don’t need to do 3 steps, you can skip from the correcting compound to the finishing polish, that is if you have removed all the defects.

Thanks Nathan. I worked on the hood today. Took me at least two hours. It needed the blue correcting compound. It turned out very nice. I was curious about skipping from the blue to the white polish so thanks for that info.

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Agreed with the others, you can use the orange CP with the blue/white MF cutting pad. The orange/black one is no longer being sold on their site.

Also, get one of the pad cleaning brushes to help lift the fibers, like what Nathan pointed out, and also to help clean them.

Nice lookin' truck. Can't wait to see more pics of the finished product!

Thanks Chris. I do have the bristle brush and usually put my PC on speed 2 and hold my brush to the pad. I had the old blue clay and was using the white clay tool with it. The blue clay was brand new but wow. The white clay is so much more pliable compared to the blue. I will be glad to get a final coat of buttery wax on it. I will for sure get a few pics.

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Thanks Chris. I do have the bristle brush and usually put my PC on speed 2 and hold my brush to the pad. I had the old blue clay and was using the white clay tool with it. The blue clay was brand new but wow. The white clay is so much more pliable compared to the blue. I will be glad to get a final coat of buttery wax on it. I will for sure get a few pics.

Sure thing. The BW is good stuff, just understand it won't last as long as a sealant (or coating, if you want to go that route). I recommend this article, http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/27631-faq-should-i-use-wax-or-sealant-on-my-car/, if you haven't read it yet, to help you decide what to use in the future.

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Thanks Nathan. I worked on the hood today. Took me at least two hours. It needed the blue correcting compound. It turned out very nice. I was curious about skipping from the blue to the white polish so thanks for that info.

Awesome! I think some people don’t skip it because sometimes there is still correction to do.

 

Definitely have more protection than wax. Wax is not known for protection anymore. I would get a sealant on (PS or H20 guard) and then top with buttery wax.

 

If you want really good protection and amazing hydrophobic properties look into ceramic coatings!

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Sure thing. The BW is good stuff, just understand it won't last as long as a sealant (or coating, if you want to go that route). I recommend this article, http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/27631-faq-should-i-use-wax-or-sealant-on-my-car/, if you haven't read it yet, to help you decide what to use in the future.

 

 

Awesome! I think some people don’t skip it because sometimes there is still correction to do.

 

Definitely have more protection than wax. Wax is not known for protection anymore. I would get a sealant on (PS or H20 guard) and then top with buttery wax.

 

If you want really good protection and amazing hydrophobic properties look into ceramic coatings!

 

I have been applying the paint sealant and a coat of buttery wax on top of the paint sealant. My steps are Clay Bar, Blue or Orange correcting polish, followed by White Finishing polish, Paint Sealant, and Buttery wax a a final step. The initial reason I bought the PC was to apply the Paint Sealant, and I knew I would do a Paint Correction at some point, which is now. I have applied the Paint Sealant a few times to my truck over the past year, but it was applied over the scratches which I am attempting to correct now. I will check out the link, thanks guys for the help. Having fun doing this. I want to get the ceramic coating for my trim: Ceramic Coating

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I have some good news, after using my PC on the hood and taking me nearly two hours, and almost that long for my hands to feel normal I went ahead and purchased the SK today. Waiting for it to arrive to continue doing the paint correction. I will be using it on my wife's Subaru next and I keep reading how it has very little vibration and it corrects so much quicker than the PC, so I cant help but want to have that same experience, I shall know soon. Who knows, maybe do a few corrections on other vehicles at some point.

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Today was a pretty awesome day as I received my two bucket wash kit, new pads, and my swirl killer. I couldn't wait to use it so I corrected a few panels. It is as good as everyone has stated and then some, vibration is very low and the foot print is quite large. I will for sure be using the heck out of it. In comparison to the PC, I would say night and day difference. So much smoother for me. I will upload some pictures upon completion on my paint correction. Super excited about the SK.

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Being new to the paint correcting scene, I have a few more questions. When using the Blue Correcting polish, can I go straight to the white finishing polish, or do i need to step down to the orange polish and then the white polish as a person would do with grits of sand paper?

 

Also the 50/50 iso alcohol & water, that is for stripping all wax/polish off, correct?

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Being new to the paint correcting scene, I have a few more questions. When using the Blue Correcting polish, can I go straight to the white finishing polish, or do i need to step down to the orange polish and then the white polish as a person would do with grits of sand paper?

 

Also the 50/50 iso alcohol & water, that is for stripping all wax/polish off, correct?

 

That is your call.  If it meets your expectations after following up the Correcting Polish with the FP, then that is all you need to do.  Try a test spot to see.

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That is your call.  If it meets your expectations after following up the Correcting Polish with the FP, then that is all you need to do.  Try a test spot to see.

Thanks Michael. Makes sense. I assumed the least amount of steps to get the paint much improved the better.

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Being new to the paint correcting scene, I have a few more questions. When using the Blue Correcting polish, can I go straight to the white finishing polish, or do i need to step down to the orange polish and then the white polish as a person would do with grits of sand paper?

 

Also the 50/50 iso alcohol & water, that is for stripping all wax/polish off, correct?

Yes, you can skip it. I would unless you find that you need to do more correction. But normally I skip from the correcting compound (blue) to the finishing polish (white).

 

Also yes, that wipe down is used to remove polish residue before applying a sealant, however, Adams finishing polish kind of preps the surface so you don’t need to do that with Adams, only if you want or are applying a ceramic coating.

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