Liquid Paint Sealant issue

[LS1MONSTER]

Hey everyone. Need some advice here on with the issue I'm having using Adam's New Liquid Paint Sealant. Sorry long post.

 

The sealant does not come off easy, my goodness it is a chore. Here's how I used it a few different ways too.

 

Started off with just the hood and only the hood.

 

Cleaned the hood using ONR, Clay barred using ONR with Adam's Visco clay, wiped cleaned with Adam's microfiber towel.

 

Applied sealant on a foam finishing pad with my DA per the bottle directions. Applied to small section of the hood on speed 3. Went on ok, but it seamed to gum/dry up on certain areas fairly quick. Those areas were a pain to remove, it helped come off if I applied some more sealant to those areas. Thinking I used too much product I tried again with less product, application just gets worse.

 

I ditched the DA and used the Adam's microfiber applicator, again followed the directions and same results. Tried working in even smaller sections, no luck.

 

Now I thought maybe it's not liking ONR that might be left on the surface. So did an alcohol wipe down for the rest of the hood and still the same issue. Removal of the stuff is a major pain.

 

I then ditched the microfiber applicator and went with a foam hand applicator, to me it applied better with the foam.  End results again were the same having to go back and fight areas of the sealant that were extremely stubborn to remove. 

 

I tried leaving it on per the directions, less that a couple of minutes and even removing quickly after applying. Tried less product, a little bit more product. I couldn't win. Having to go back and see areas where sealant was still on my hood was starting to make me crazy lol.

 

This was in the late evening around 7pm. Cool weather and surface, sun going down and completely in the shade.

 

Please help! I have years of detailing under my belt, so I'm not new to this. But any tips, advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for reading!

[GXPaycheck]

Sounds like too much product.

[Rich]

I've never had any issues with the LPS.  But then again, I don't use a machine when I apply.  Was your pad wet when you used it?  Is it a never used bottle or an old bottle?  Mine smells like licorice.  You shouldn't be having that issue.  Give Adam's a call in the a.m. and I have no doubt they'll send you out a new bottle.  You may be that one person who got a dud.  You know, there's always one.  

[LS1MONSTER]

Sounds like too much product.

 

 

That was my thought too. Even when I went with less product to the point where there was basically no product being applied to the surface, I was getting the same results. I am a firm believer in less is more when it comes to detailing.

Edited July 23, 2017 by LS1MONSTER

[LS1MONSTER]

I've never had any issues with the LPS.  But then again, I don't use a machine when I apply.  Was your pad wet when you used it?  Is it a never used bottle or an old bottle?  Mine smells like licorice.  You shouldn't be having that issue.  Give Adam's a call in the a.m. and I have no doubt they'll send you out a new bottle.  You may be that one person who got a dud.  You know, there's always one.  

I primed my pad before applying. And this was a brand new bottle, coconut smell. I'm going to try another panel later today.

[Nickfire20]

Seems weird to me. Im no expert, especially with sealant, but i have applied the newest version a couple times by hand, and did my parents suv, via DA. Never had one problem. Its easy to remove, just not as easy as Buttery Wax haha, i dont think anything is that easy.

 

Whats the temp like there. Humidity?

Are you shaking it good? Was it left to freeze, and out in the heat too long?

Edited July 23, 2017 by Nickfire20

[goheels]

I had the same issue as the OP. Applied very thin amount by machine and it was a nightmare to get off. In my case I think I left it on too long (45-60 min) before wiping off, so maybe that was the problem. The old formula I had no problems with removal even if I didn't wipe it off for a bit.

[LS1MONSTER]

Seems weird to me. Im no expert, especially with sealant, but i have applied the newest version a couple times by hand, and did my parents suv, via DA. Never had one problem. Its easy to remove, just not as easy as Buttery Wax haha, i dont think anything is that easy.

 

Whats the temp like there. Humidity?

Are you shaking it good? Was it left to freeze, and out in the heat too long?

 

Yes, always shake my products. No freezing here in Souther California.

Yesterday's weather around 7pm yesterday I would guess to say was at least 77 to 84 degrees. Humidity about 50%.

[LS1MONSTER]

I had the same issue as the OP. Applied very thin amount by machine and it was a nightmare to get off. In my case I think I left it on too long (45-60 min) before wiping off, so maybe that was the problem. The old formula I had no problems with removal even if I didn't wipe it off for a bit.

I was removing it within minutes after applying it, then I was removing it within seconds after applying it.

 

It could have been the weather yesterday..but I will try it on a new panel and see how it goes.

[Ls1transam]

I never had any luck with the old paint Sealant or the new. Didn't matter how much product I used or how well I spread it on. By hand or machine it was always the same. There would be spots that just wouldn't come off. Then in a couple days I'd find spots I missed. I just stopped using it all together.

[BrianT]

I primed my pad before applying. And this was a brand new bottle, coconut smell. I'm going to try another panel later today.

Don't prime a foam pad, that might be the issue with too much product

[TheWolf]

I primed my pad before applying. And this was a brand new bottle, coconut smell. I'm going to try another panel later today.

 

What did you prime the pad or applicator with?

 

If applied very thinly, the residue is easier to remove after it was cured for an hour or so.  But the key is a thin application, only 3-4 drops per panel, or about 1/2 an ounce of product for an entire car.

 

If you are trying to remove it after just a few minutes, it probably has not hazed up enough, so you are just smearing around uncured sealant.

 

On your next try, apply to a small area using a clean, dry applicator, with only a few drops of product.  Then let it cure for an hour before removing the haze.

 

When I do my truck, I apply the PS to the whole thing before going back and wiping the haze.  Some people will even wait until the next day to wipe off the residue.

[ocdrifter]

When wiping dried stubborn spot I hit those spots with a spray wax, it doesn't matter what brand you use, this will re activate it to help it come off easier, you can also use detail spray on stubborn spots.

 

P.S. where in so cal are you?

[LS1MONSTER]

Don't prime a foam pad, that might be the issue with too much product

 

I didn't prime the pad with sealant. Just a quick spritz of detail spray.

 

What did you prime the pad or applicator with?

 

If applied very thinly, the residue is easier to remove after it was cured for an hour or so.  But the key is a thin application, only 3-4 drops per panel, or about 1/2 an ounce of product for an entire car.

 

If you are trying to remove it after just a few minutes, it probably has not hazed up enough, so you are just smearing around uncured sealant.

 

On your next try, apply to a small area using a clean, dry applicator, with only a few drops of product.  Then let it cure for an hour before removing the haze.

 

When I do my truck, I apply the PS to the whole thing before going back and wiping the haze.  Some people will even wait until the next day to wipe off the residue.

Pad was primed with a quick spritz of detail spray.

I followed the directions on the bottle. Even when I switched over to the Adam's microfiber applicator and a foam hand applicator the results were the same.  I applied it as thin as possible with as little product as possible.  When I go to remove it, the sealant is already dry, nothing is being smeared around. I tried different wait times. But I did not wait an hour before removing, that seems just excessive.

[LS1MONSTER]

I never had any luck with the old paint Sealant or the new. Didn't matter how much product I used or how well I spread it on. By hand or machine it was always the same. There would be spots that just wouldn't come off. Then in a couple days I'd find spots I missed. I just stopped using it all together.

Exactly.

 

When wiping dried stubborn spot I hit those spots with a spray wax, it doesn't matter what brand you use, this will re activate it to help it come off easier, you can also use detail spray on stubborn spots.

 

P.S. where in so cal are you?

 

 

I had to use detail spray to get rid of the stubborn spots. I'm in San Gabriel Valley.

Edited July 24, 2017 by LS1MONSTER

[avimore]

If applied very thinly, the residue is easier to remove after it was cured for an hour or so.  But the key is a thin application, only 3-4 drops per panel, or about 1/2 an ounce of product for an entire car.

 

If you are trying to remove it after just a few minutes, it probably has not hazed up enough, so you are just smearing around uncured sealant.

 

On your next try, apply to a small area using a clean, dry applicator, with only a few drops of product.  Then let it cure for an hour before removing the haze.

 

When I do my truck, I apply the PS to the whole thing before going back and wiping the haze.  Some people will even wait until the next day to wipe off the residue.

 

Looking for some clarification...  I thought the term 'curing' referred to the process that happens after you remove residue?

 

I currently apply LPS, start removing the residue once I've done the whole car, followed by a minimum one hour of curing to allow a nice full bond to the paint surface.

 

My understanding was that letting LPS sit a long time before removing would make the residue harder to remove and would have little effect on the bond since the molecules are already on the paint.

[ledger64]

curing = dwell time for it to sit on the surface. 

 

Essentially the product should sit on the vehicle until it dries.  Depending on product, temp, humidity, and the amount used will greatly effect removal.  The longer you wait should make it easier to remove.

 

sounds like folks aren't waiting long enough. 

Edited July 25, 2017 by ledger64

[TheWolf]

I didn't prime the pad with sealant. Just a quick spritz of detail spray.

 

Pad was primed with a quick spritz of detail spray.

I followed the directions on the bottle. Even when I switched over to the Adam's microfiber applicator and a foam hand applicator the results were the same.  I applied it as thin as possible with as little product as possible.  When I go to remove it, the sealant is already dry, nothing is being smeared around. I tried different wait times. But I did not wait an hour before removing, that seems just excessive.

 

I understand your frustration, and I appreciate you trying to trouble-shoot the issue with us.

 

At this point, I think there is either an issue with the application procedure, or the product is defective, or maybe it was stored exposed to higher temperatures.

 

This current version has been out for awhile, and people have found that the residue is easier to remove than the previous version.

 

The PS should be applied with a clean, dry applicator or pad.  The applicator or pad should not be primed with DS.  Doing so just adds water, wax and other polymers into the applied layer, which is not what should be done with PS since it is a solvent-based product.

 

This is seen when washing out the applicators or pads, the leftover sealant does not dilute with water, it takes a strong cleaner like MRB to clean the sealant out.

 

I would try a new application, with a clean, dry applicator and no priming, applying it very thin at 3-4 small drops for an entire hood, and let it cure out for 20 minutes or so.  As you progress with the application, you would apply less product for each additional panel, since the sealant gets built-up in the applicator.

 

Looking for some clarification...  I thought the term 'curing' referred to the process that happens after you remove residue?

 

I currently apply LPS, start removing the residue once I've done the whole car, followed by a minimum one hour of curing to allow a nice full bond to the paint surface.

 

My understanding was that letting LPS sit a long time before removing would make the residue harder to remove and would have little effect on the bond since the molecules are already on the paint.

 

Sorry for the confusion.  The PS starts to cure as soon as it is applied, as the solvents start to evaporate away.  This curing then continues, whether the residue is removed after it hazes, or left for a while and removed later.

 

In theory, the curing of the very thin layer of sealant that actually links and bonds with the paint (the rest gets removed as residue) would be slower with the residue left in place for an hour of more, since the excess product on the surface would slow down the curing, since it still contains solvent, and the extra layer of haze would slow down the process of polymer linking and bonding.

 

In reality, there are so many variables (application thickness, temp, humidity, air flow) that it is not really possible to say exactly when it has cured enough to be layered, so the general rule of a hour is recommended, whether you remove the haze after a few minutes, or let it sit for longer.  To be safe, I would recommend that the "hour of cure time" begins when the residue is removed, unless you happen to leave the residue on overnight.

 

Many people have reported that leaving the residue on longer actually makes removal easier.  But with this new version that should remove very easily, there may not be much difference between 20-30 minutes and letting it sit overnight.

[avimore]

curing = dwell time for it to sit on the surface. 

 

Essentially the product should sit on the vehicle until it dries.  Depending on product, temp, humidity, and the amount used will greatly effect removal.  The longer you wait should make it easier to remove.

 

sounds like folks aren't waiting long enough. 

 

Sorry for the confusion.  The PS starts to cure as soon as it is applied, as the solvents start to evaporate away.  This curing then continues, whether the residue is removed after it hazes, or left for a while and removed later.

 

In theory, the curing of the very thin layer of sealant that actually links and bonds with the paint (the rest gets removed as residue) would be slower with the residue left in place for an hour of more, since the excess product on the surface would slow down the curing, since it still contains solvent, and the extra layer of haze would slow down the process of polymer linking and bonding.

 

In reality, there are so many variables (application thickness, temp, humidity, air flow) that it is not really possible to say exactly when it has cured enough to be layered, so the general rule of a hour is recommended, whether you remove the haze after a few minutes, or let it sit for longer.  To be safe, I would recommend that the "hour of cure time" begins when the residue is removed, unless you happen to leave the residue on overnight.

 

Many people have reported that leaving the residue on longer actually makes removal easier.  But with this new version that should remove very easily, there may not be much difference between 20-30 minutes and letting it sit overnight.

 

Thanks, guys.  Great information here.

[jabo_pf]

If I was to apply two layers of paint sealant back to back (is this necessary), would I wait for it to cure 1 hour before wiping off the residue, and wait one more hour to apply another coat of sealant or wax? Thanks.

[Beemer]

Two coats of Paint Sealant is NOT necessary.

 

The cure time is the time AFTER removal and before applying another product (or the same product again).  

[Kickerz71]

I will do my apply the sealant on the entire vehicle using my PC, then wipe off without any effort.

[LSX Maestro]

I had a fairly similar issue.  It wasn't THAT bad but I definitely had to aggressively wipe it off.  Application was very easy with just a hand microfiber applicator.  I did the whole car and then began removing.  I was in 100% humidity (Raining and hot outside as I sealed), and there was a bit of water left dripping from spots like the mirror, plastic trim, door handles, grille, headlights etc.  I just went right over it with the my applicator and between that and the humidity I think I helped turn my removing process into a nightmare.  2 weeks later though, when the vehicle is clean it's slick as glass.