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djslentz

Checking in from PA....

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Hi yall.  I'm Dave.

 

I've always been passionate about maintaining a clean car.  In the past I have always used off the shelf products like megs, etc.  I'm happy to find Adam's and looking forward to really putting their products to good use.  I recently purchased a new 2017 Tiguan Sport so my goal is to properly maintain it top to bottom.

 

So far I got in on the mystery bucket and then placed a separate order.

 

Here's what I have so far:

 

Carpet and Upholstery Cleaner
Wheel Cleaner 
Car Wash Shampoo 
Detail Spray 
New Ultra Plush Drying Towel and other MF towels
H2O Guard & Gloss
Visco Clay Bar Kit
Paint Sealant Kit
Buttery Wax
New Interior Detailer
Tire Shine
VRT
 
 
My plan:
 
wash the car
clay with detailing spray
paint sealant
buttery wax
h20 guard and gloss
apply dressings
 
Any tips or recommendations?
 
Look forward to learning from as well as contributing to the forums! Thanks!

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Edited by djslentz

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Welcome Dave.  Your plan and current supply list is great.  I would switch the order of Buttery Wax and H2O G&G, simply because G&G on its own can last a few months (Indefinitely when re-applied every few washes), but your buttery wax will only last a few weeks or so on a daily driver (I'd say at least), so once your wax burns off then so will your H2O G&G with it. 

 

If you're using the Buttery Wax before the H2O for a shine and luster enhancer and hoping to lock it in with the H2O then I would axe the Buttery Wax, using it only as a top coat, and then use Brilliant Glaze which has shining properties only, and then go over that with H2O to lock it in.  Other more experienced detailers can step in with that.  

 

Basically you want your more resilient products as close to the paint as possible.  So you'll also want to make sure that the wash you give it before applying LPS (Liquid paint sealant) is a strip wash, getting rid of all old waxes, coatings, sprays, and soap film.  

 

Strip

Clay

LPS

H2O

Wax

Re-Wash when needed, dry with H2O to maintain the sealant.  Eventually your paint sealant will die off, say about 5-7 months, then you'll want to Re-strip and re-seal etc.  

 

Good luck and have fun. 

Edited by LSX Maestro

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Welcome to the forum Dave.   :welcomebanner:

 

I would apply VRT to the black trim around the wheel wells prior to applying any wax or sealant to the paint.  It will help if you happen to get any on the trim during the application.  The wax or sealant will simply wipe right off.

Edited by ZMAN024

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Hey Dave welcome to the forums...it's a great place for some detailing knowledge. I would also say that unless the car NEEDS to be clayed then clay it, if not I would steer clear of the clay until it is needed..

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Hey Dave welcome to the forums...it's a great place for some detailing knowledge. I would also say that unless the car NEEDS to be clayed then clay it, if not I would steer clear of the clay until it is needed..

Can you elaborate on why you wouldn't clay it? The car has about a 1000 miles on it. Wouldn't claying it remove any contaminants and create a clean surface for the paint sealant?

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Welcome to the addiction, Dave!

 

PS and HGG work great on white! My guess on Mat's comments re: clay is to prevent potential marring. Given that it's new, it very well may still have contaminants, including rail dust, that clay would remove. IMO, I recommend you clay it. But if you really want, do the baggie test...place a plastic bag over your hand, and lightly rub the surface of the paint. If it feels rough, clay is the next step. Then, baggie it again to feel the difference.

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Welcome to the addiction, Dave!

 

PS and HGG work great on white! My guess on Mat's comments re: clay is to prevent potential marring. Given that it's new, it very well may still have contaminants, including rail dust, that clay would remove. IMO, I recommend you clay it. But if you really want, do the baggie test...place a plastic bag over your hand, and lightly rub the surface of the paint. If it feels rough, clay is the next step. Then, baggie it again to feel the difference.

 

Thanks for the feedback, these were my thoughts exactly.  I'll definitely be claying it first, after the strip wash of course.

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Thanks for signing up to the forum Dave, and congrats on the new ride!

 

As you can see, there's lots of great people around here :)

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Welcome to the addiction, Dave!

 

PS and HGG work great on white! My guess on Mat's comments re: clay is to prevent potential marring. Given that it's new, it very well may still have contaminants, including rail dust, that clay would remove. IMO, I recommend you clay it. But if you really want, do the baggie test...place a plastic bag over your hand, and lightly rub the surface of the paint. If it feels rough, clay is the next step. Then, baggie it again to feel the difference.

 

I don't doubt it will need some claying but also I don't think claying should be done if it's not needed., also rail dust might need something to remove iron

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