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Bug removal using APC

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I'm new to Adams Polishes and so far I love every product I have, and I am still fairly new to detailing. And I was wondering if Eco All Purpose Cleaner can be used to remove dead bugs from front bumbers. I hear that I can use waterless wash but I don't have that product yet. If anyone knows if it's safe to use (potential client vehicle never has beeen waxed/ sealed or ceramic coated)

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Welcome, Rosendo! Be sure to post an intro on the New Member Check In thread.

 

Yes, you can use it. It's great stuff! Just understand it will remove whatever protection there is on the car, including sealant, wax and glaze. It won't, however, remove coating. So if you use it on future vehicles, be prepared to reapply protection to that area.

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You can dilute APC to make it a bit weaker as well (and to make your bottle last longer), but I still recommend reapplying protection.

 

Rinseless diluted 6:1 also makes a great big remover.

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So if I'm understanding this correctly - you can just use the APC to help remove bugs but you'll have to reapply the top layer whether it be sealant or wax. Yeah?

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24 minutes ago, GiggleMon said:

So if I'm understanding this correctly - you can just use the APC to help remove bugs but you'll have to reapply the top layer whether it be sealant or wax. Yeah?

Bingo !  But, not just the top layer.  If you have more than one layer, you'll have to re-apply all protection after using the APC.  It's a very powerful degreaser that will remove wax, glaze and sealant.

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4 hours ago, ZMAN024 said:

Bingo !  But, not just the top layer.  If you have more than one layer, you'll have to re-apply all protection after using the APC.  It's a very powerful degreaser that will remove wax, glaze and sealant.

Perfect! I know what I’m doing before the detail happens. Thank you.

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5 hours ago, GiggleMon said:

Perfect! I know what I’m doing before the detail happens. Thank you.

Surprised you hadn't heard a "Strip wash" come up before this? Yes that's the first fundamental step; complete wash with regular soap and a alcohol wipe down OR a strip wash (In which case an alcohol isn't necessary).  You can also clay after washing and before the wipe down if you're doing a wipe down.  You want every thing off before laying down Sealants, Waxes, Glazes, etc.  Your first layer on the paint should be the strongest layer (Sealant or coating) and then you can choose to add whatever you want over the top.  

I washed my truck with original Dawn dish soap which left the paint squeaky naked, clayed it with detail spray and the water left from rinsing, re-rinsed the truck, re washed the bad areas, rinsed, dried, and then wiped it down with rubbing alcohol and water.  Paint sealant went on like warm butter on hot toast.  I expect to get a full 5-7 months out of it, but I also layered H2O G&G on top and do it after washes. 

Next summer my "hot cars" will get the similar treatment, but I'll also add a wax for depth and shine.  Hand waxing a 3/4 ton is not what I picture on a cold fall day.

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11 hours ago, LSX Maestro said:

Surprised you hadn't heard a "Strip wash" come up before this? Yes that's the first fundamental step; complete wash with regular soap and a alcohol wipe down OR a strip wash (In which case an alcohol isn't necessary).  You can also clay after washing and before the wipe down if you're doing a wipe down.  You want every thing off before laying down Sealants, Waxes, Glazes, etc.  Your first layer on the paint should be the strongest layer (Sealant or coating) and then you can choose to add whatever you want over the top.  

I washed my truck with original Dawn dish soap which left the paint squeaky naked, clayed it with detail spray and the water left from rinsing, re-rinsed the truck, re washed the bad areas, rinsed, dried, and then wiped it down with rubbing alcohol and water.  Paint sealant went on like warm butter on hot toast.  I expect to get a full 5-7 months out of it, but I also layered H2O G&G on top and do it after washes. 

Next summer my "hot cars" will get the similar treatment, but I'll also add a wax for depth and shine.  Hand waxing a 3/4 ton is not what I picture on a cold fall day.

Like I said in the welcome thread - I'm brand new to this entire process. I've used Adam's products for quite some time but have never went fully into detailing the fleet, that and I haven't lived in the US for a while.

If I'm correctly understanding what you're saying use ***Dawn dish soap > wash the car > wipe down car with an alcohol wipe > clay > rinse > rewash bad areas > rinse > dry***?

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5 hours ago, GiggleMon said:

Like I said in the welcome thread - I'm brand new to this entire process. I've used Adam's products for quite some time but have never went fully into detailing the fleet, that and I haven't lived in the US for a while.

If I'm correctly understanding what you're saying use ***Dawn dish soap > wash the car > wipe down car with an alcohol wipe > clay > rinse > rewash bad areas > rinse > dry***?

The Dawn wash is not going to get much 'love' here - we would recommend using Strip Wash or regular Wash Shampoo with a 2-3 ounces of APC added.  The Adam's soap is much friendlier to your car than a dishwashing degreaser product.

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Just now, mc2hill said:

The Dawn wash is not going to get much 'love' here - we would recommend using Strip Wash or regular Wash Shampoo with a 2-3 ounces of APC added.  The Adam's soap is much friendlier to your car than a dishwashing degreaser product.

I wouldn't think it would - I have a delay on my initial shipment anyway so I ordered some more stuff today. Strip Wash was included. Makes it easier.

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You're correct that there's much better ways to do it than Dawn.  At the time, I didn't have any Adam's APC or even Car Shampoo and it was my first strip wash.  Adam's does say you can use it IF you are ok with removing all of your coatings and also list it was an alternative to adding APC to regular Shampoo or Strip wash shampoo.  It worked for me, but by all means use Strip if you have it.  Just DON"T use strip after you wax/seal your car unless you want everything gone again (Typically on a 4-6 month strip/reseal/rewax etc. is what I'll do).  

I can list what I did again, however it's not perfect world in some cases:

  1. Wash with Dawn (Or Strip wash or APC + Shampoo, I did not have any of those products at the time, however I do now)
  2. Rinse soap off
  3. Clay with Detail spray (Leaving the rinse water on as additional lubricant)
  4. Dry vehicle off with microfibers and air
  5. Wipe down vehicle with Rubbing Alcohol/Water mix and Microfibers (Leaves finish as naked as I think you can get it)
  6. Applied Liquid Paint sealant to the whole truck by hand
  7. Wiped off LPS and applied H2O G&G with the Dry Method 

Goes without saying that I treated my black trim before LPSing so residual LPS didn't stain my trim.  I think my sequence was pretty solid, I would use Strip Wash instead of Dawn if you have it.  

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3 hours ago, GiggleMon said:

is the H2O worth getting? I can pick up more stuff.

Yes it is, try the kit first comes with a 16oz bottle and two border less towels you won’t regret it. 

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19 hours ago, GiggleMon said:

is the H2O worth getting? I can pick up more stuff.

I LOVE H2O!!  I can quickly add some shine and several months worth of protection without adding time to my rinseless wash.  But if you are going to use the 'wet' method I do recommend changing the sprayer to the red Tolco sprayer that comes on the Premium Dilution Bottle.

 

My method (wet):

  • dampen a dedicated H2O G&G towel in the rinseless solution and wring it out
  • wash the section
  • spray H2O over the section
  • spread it around with the dedicated towel
  • let it sit while you do the next section
  • wipe with the Waterless Wash towel
  • enjoy the shine and protection you added with minimum effort! 

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