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Special K

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I pulled out my new 15mm Swirl Killer this evening after washing my 2003 Blue Eurovan with strip wash using my foam cannon. I only used the polisher on the front hood and took my time. After claying the hood I started with the heavy correcting polish and blue pad, then I used the correcting polish with the orange pad, then finishing polish and white pad. I ended with sealant and the grey pad. I plan on using buttery wax to make it really shine. So far it looks great, and fun to do. 

 

My questions are- 

Should I take every step that I did above? Can I go from heavy correcting polish to finishing polish, and skip correcting polish? 

Should I make more passes with different polishes? How many passes should I make?

Should I apply pressure to the polisher with any of the polishes?

 

Thank for the help,

 

Kevin

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Hi Kevin. You ask some questions that take some time to answer since there’s no real cut and dry answer. 

 

Let’s take them in order...

 

Do you need every step?  That really depends upon in the condition of the paint you’re starting with. You always want to start with the least aggressive method to accomplish the result you’re after. Usually start with a test spot to see how aggressive you need to do. Keep in mind that you’re removing clear coat with polishing. The idea is to retain as much clear coat as you can while accomplishing the finish you’re after. 

 

In theory, you can skip intermediate steps. We aren’t an advocate of doing so though even though when it’s fresh it can look perfect. The purpose of those intermediate steps is to really reduce the lasting effects of each step. If we compound a vehicle, we always correct before finishing polish. The finishing polish is really the step you may get away with skipping. The finishing polish though really brings out the gloss of the finish.

 

When you ask how many passes you should make, again it’s variable. It depends on the condition of the paint as well as the result you’re looking for. Your arm speed, pressure, pad and polish/compound will all determine the number of passes needed.

 

As for pressure on the polisher, you use a light pressure with Adam’s polishes. There isn’t a universal answer for pressure. We use with compound that starts with a light pressure and finishes with increased pressure. So the answer to that is variable as well. 

 

Hope these answers help!

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2 hours ago, shane@detailedreflections said:

real

Thanks Shane, 

Your answer is helpful, and thanks for taking the time to respond to each question. What I learned from your answers is that experience is the key. I’m going to do the correcting steps in sequence, and not skip a step (at least this time) to gain experience.

The correcting, polishing, and sealing is making a noticeable difference. At least on the hood ;)

 

Thanks again,

 

Kevin

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Shane addressed your questions well, so I'll add a quick tip for pressure. First, make a small perpendicular line on the back of the pad with a Sharpie. Then, as you apply the pad to the surface and turn on the polisher (in that order!!), ensure the pad is spinning slowly. That way you know you're applying enough pressure to make a difference and/or it's not getting stuck.

 

Also, ensure you are keeping the pads flat against the surface...watch for sharp edges and curves where the pad could beat against the paint. Another tip on that...video closeups of your application and watch to validate what you're doing, correcting as needed. 

 

It will be a learning process, so take your time and you'll get in a rhythm.

 

And as always, post some pictures when you're done!

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Chris raises a good point about pad rotation, and it’s often overlooked. We actually mark the backing plates themselves as opposed to the pads on our equipment. Either way works. But backing plates last way longer than pads and there’s fewer of them to mark. We probably have 40-50 pads that would need to be marked versus four backing plates. 

 

Good tip and thanks for following up!

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1 hour ago, falcaineer said:

Shane addressed your questions well, so I'll add a quick tip for pressure. First, make a small perpendicular line on the back of the pad with a Sharpie. Then, as you apply the pad to the surface and turn on the polisher (in that order!!), ensure the pad is spinning slowly. That way you know you're applying enough pressure to make a difference and/or it's not getting stuck.

I think I'm following. So I should be able to look down and the marked polishing pad or backing plate and see the marked line as I'm polishing and whether it's spinning or not?

 

Another Question-

There are six speed settings on my swirl killer, and for the heavy correcting and correcting polish I used speed 5, and for finishing I used 4, and for the sealant I used 3. I was planning on using 3 for the buttery wax as well.

 

Once again, I appreciate all the input.

 

Kevin 

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2 minutes ago, Special K said:

I think I'm following. So I should be able to look down and the marked polishing pad or backing plate and see the marked line as I'm polishing and whether it's spinning or not?

 

Another Question-

There are six speed settings on my swirl killer, and for the heavy correcting and correcting polish I used speed 5, and for finishing I used 4, and for the sealant I used 3. I was planning on using 3 for the buttery wax as well.

 

Once again, I appreciate all the input.

 

Kevin 

 

That’a correct for the marking. You’ll want to see it moving and not in the same spot. If it’s in the same spot, the pad has stalled and you’re using too much pressure. 

 

As for the speeds, I’ll let someone with a SK address that. We use Rupes machines which are quite similar, but don’t want to assume exact. 

 

For polishing we run 4-5 for speeds and for protection we use a much slower 1-2. These numbers may not apply to your machine. Speed is another variable with polishing. Faster is not always better. More speed equals more heat. It can also work the polish too quickly. 

 

Sometimes less is more. 

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On 1/29/2018 at 8:47 PM, falcaineer said:

Looks great! How about a pic of the marked pad/plate?! ;)

 

This is how we mark ours. Nothing fancy. Just a sharpie on the backing plate. The line should move. If it stays in one spot, you’ve stalled the pad. VERY simple and worth doing. 

 

47408AA6-9392-445B-B467-186115A76F77.thumb.jpeg.ad73579927d0c228d9fe50d3e2c58230.jpeg

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5 hours ago, shane@detailedreflections said:

 

This is how we mark ours. Nothing fancy. Just a sharpie on the backing plate. The line should move. If it stays in one spot, you’ve stalled the pad. VERY simple and worth doing. 

 

47408AA6-9392-445B-B467-186115A76F77.thumb.jpeg.ad73579927d0c228d9fe50d3e2c58230.jpeg

 

Thanks, Shane...I was just messing with him on posting a pic. You're right, though. Simple and effective way to improve the process.

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9 hours ago, falcaineer said:

This is how we mark ours. Nothing fancy. Just a sharpie on the backing plate. The line should move. If it stays in one spot, you’ve stalled the pad. VERY simple and worth doing. 

 

Sorry I forgot to post the polisher mark. Thanks for covering it for me. I marked mine in the same manner, based on the excellent instructions by you all. Very helpful

 

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