Paint Correction on Decals/Blow Drying

[R/T-Shadow]

Hey guys, 

So I am thinking about buying the Adams Master Blaster but I am not sure how different it is compared to an air compressor. I have been using an air compressor lately and have noticed that it doesn't quite remove all of the water from my vehicle and it also leaves water marks if I don't use a microfiber drying towel. I guess my question is, what is the difference between the master blaster and an air compressor and does the master blaster work better?

 

My next question is about paint correction. I drive a "company/government" vehicle around that has decals on it all day through many different types of weather conditions. That being said, there are a ton of scratches, swirl marks, water stains, and etc on the clear coat. Can I use the swirl killer on the decals or should I tape them off to avoid damaging them? 

 

Let me know what you guys think! Thanks!

[shane@detailedreflections]

The MBR is different from an air compressor. Compressors work on pressure, where the MBR works on volume. The MBR also uses filtered and warmed air. These things do make a difference. Another thought is most air compressors have some form of oil in them to keep the tanks from rotting. The MBR does not. That being said, even when using an MBR, you will have to use a microfiber to do final drying. The MBR won’t remove every last drop. It will get water out from the seams and trim. 

 

If the decals are vinyl, we would usually work around them. I don’t know if we’d go as far as taping them, but we’d get close to them with the polishers. Revive is a good option for vinyl. It works chemically. You need to use caution on vinyl/ppl as the heat of polishing can cause damage to them as well as marring since they’re super soft. The most a vinyl should ever need if you chose to go by machine is a fine polish.

[Thorsager]

I've used my Master Blaster for the past 5 years and love it! It makes short work of drying a car.

[R/T-Shadow]

5 hours ago, shane@detailedreflections said:

The MBR is different from an air compressor. Compressors work on pressure, where the MBR works on volume. The MBR also uses filtered and warmed air. These things do make a difference. Another thought is most air compressors have some form of oil in them to keep the tanks from rotting. The MBR does not. That being said, even when using an MBR, you will have to use a microfiber to do final drying. The MBR won’t remove every last drop. It will get water out from the seams and trim. 

 

If the decals are vinyl, we would usually work around them. I don’t know if we’d go as far as taping them, but we’d get close to them with the polishers. Revive is a good option for vinyl. It works chemically. You need to use caution on vinyl/ppl as the heat of polishing can cause damage to them as well as marring since they’re super soft. The most a vinyl should ever need if you chose to go by machine is a fine polish.

Awesome, thank you for the information! 

[shane@detailedreflections]

You’re welcome. Happy to help. 

[R/T-Shadow]

40 minutes ago, shane@detailedreflections said:

You’re welcome. Happy to help. 

I do have another question and hopefully you wil be able to help me again. On average, how much polish and correcting compound should I be using on a normal size sedan? 

[shane@detailedreflections]

Typically a few ounces of each. You’re apply drops, not big lines. More polish doesn’t equate to more polishing. 

 

The 8 ounce polishes Adams offers should get you multiple vehicles/corrections. 

[R/T-Shadow]

12 hours ago, shane@detailedreflections said:

Typically a few ounces of each. You’re apply drops, not big lines. More polish doesn’t equate to more polishing. 

 

The 8 ounce polishes Adams offers should get you multiple vehicles/corrections. 

Awesome! Again thanks for the help!