Jump to content
Customer Service 866.965.0400
  • 0

Wheel Coating


Manny

Question

Hi all new guys here been searching around for an answer and haven’t found it maybe y’all can help , ordered a set of vossen wheels that I wanna coat but they are an anodized black barrel finish, can you use the Adam’s wheel coating kit? Have searched and searched and can get a real answer hope one of y’all have experience because I had already bought the kit month prior to getting my wheels.

02AD2795-8A54-40F4-85FF-52CA0186E313.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 answers to this question

Recommended Posts

  • 0

You can apply the coating to your wheels. A couple of points...

 

- prep is everything. Once you coat your wheels, you’ve locked the finish.

 

- those wheels are what we would consider “complex.” We would apply the coating on those by airbrush. Take your time and work in small sections with hand application.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
2 hours ago, shane@detailedreflections said:

You can apply the coating to your wheels. A couple of points...

 

- prep is everything. Once you coat your wheels, you’ve locked the finish.

 

- those wheels are what we would consider “complex.” We would apply the coating on those by airbrush. Take your time and work in small sections with hand application.

 

 

Thanks for confirming what other applicator options do you recommend for like the tight spots i don’t see the applicator pad fitting in some spots for the Adam’s kit 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
2 hours ago, shane@detailedreflections said:

You can apply the coating to your wheels. A couple of points...

 

- prep is everything. Once you coat your wheels, you’ve locked the finish.

 

- those wheels are what we would consider “complex.” We would apply the coating on those by airbrush. Take your time and work in small sections with hand application.

 

 

Also what kind and brand of airbrush do y’all use and can the Adam’s wheel coating be used through the air brush ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
36 minutes ago, Manny said:

Thanks for confirming what other applicator options do you recommend for like the tight spots i don’t see the applicator pad fitting in some spots for the Adam’s kit 

 

You can use the Adams sponge type applicator. We use suede 4x4 applicators on a block or even alone for tight spots. The buffing off is the harder part since the towels are thicker. 

 

4 minutes ago, Manny said:

Also what kind and brand of airbrush do y’all use and can the Adam’s wheel coating be used through the air brush ?

 

We actually use a Harbor Freight airbrush. They work well since it’s not precision work. They’re also inexpensive so if we trash one by not getting it clean enough, we are only out $10 or so. We also don’t hook it up to an airbrush compressor, we connect it to our big one with the regulator turned down. This allows a constant flow of air without the compressor kicking on and off.

 

And yes, Adams Wheel Coating can be sent through an airbrush. Next time we do a set, I’m going to do a write up on it. Might be a few weeks though before that happens. 

 

When airbrushing, there’s less buffing required since it tends to be a more even application, but it is required. You will go through more coating since you’ll lose some to overspray. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
2 minutes ago, shane@detailedreflections said:

 

You can use the Adams sponge type applicator. We use suede 4x4 applicators on a block or even alone for tight spots. The buffing off is the harder part since the towels are thicker. 

 

 

We actually use a Harbor Freight airbrush. They work well since it’s not precision work. They’re also inexpensive so if we trash one by not getting it clean enough, we are only out $10 or so. We also don’t hook it up to an airbrush compressor, we connect it to our big one with the regulator turned down. This allows a constant flow of air without the compressor kicking on and off.

 

And yes, Adams Wheel Coating can be sent through an airbrush. Next time we do a set, I’m going to do a write up on it. Might be a few weeks though before that happens. 

 

When airbrushing, there’s less buffing required since it tends to be a more even application, but it is required. You will go through more coating since you’ll lose some to overspray. 

Sorry for all the questions but I got a little more so for prep, my wheels are brand new in the box I use the ceramic prep from the kit and wipe them down pretty good then if I do buy the air brush, do you do the front face or the back side first ? Then after that you wipe it good with the micro fiber in the kit and try to get all areas good? Then let sit for 24 hrs for curing and then apply ceramic boost and wipe off ? Is this the proper procedure ? And about how much air psi do you run through the air brush ? Sorry for all the questions again but seems like your the only person that has had all the answers haha I appreciate it 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

No problem. You may want to give the wheels a once ocev to confirm that they don’t need polishing. Just because they’re new doesn’t mean perfect. 

 

As for the order, it doesn’t really matter either way. Front, wipe, back wipe then wipe it all. Or back, wipe, front, wipe then wipe it all. As long as the whole thing gets covered and buffed you’re good. Twelve to twenty four hours later, apply boost and you’re good to go. 

 

The pressure for the brush depends on the brush itself and your connections. The brush says what it should run at when flowing. Test your brush with water to make sure you know how it sprays.

 

Honestly, if you’re not used to working with ceramics and are only doing one set of wheels, you may want to skip the airbrush. It works for us from a time savings point of view, but takes some practice to get it down. If you have the patience and resources though, have at it!  Works great for honeycomb trim and such as well. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
22 minutes ago, shane@detailedreflections said:

No problem. You may want to give the wheels a once ocev to confirm that they don’t need polishing. Just because they’re new doesn’t mean perfect. 

 

As for the order, it doesn’t really matter either way. Front, wipe, back wipe then wipe it all. Or back, wipe, front, wipe then wipe it all. As long as the whole thing gets covered and buffed you’re good. Twelve to twenty four hours later, apply boost and you’re good to go. 

 

The pressure for the brush depends on the brush itself and your connections. The brush says what it should run at when flowing. Test your brush with water to make sure you know how it sprays.

 

Honestly, if you’re not used to working with ceramics and are only doing one set of wheels, you may want to skip the airbrush. It works for us from a time savings point of view, but takes some practice to get it down. If you have the patience and resources though, have at it!  Works great for honeycomb trim and such as well. 

One more question what does OCEV mean you mentioned. I will probably just get suede 4x4 and do it that way,  im trying not to experiment with my  new wheels with the airbrush.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...