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Wash and wax->HGG->Buttery wax . . overkill?


ColoradoSHObro

Question

So when i do a 2 bucket wash on someone elses car I'm currently using the UF shampoo then applying HGG and then buttery wax. 

However, i'm considering replacing the UF with Wash and wax to provide longer term protection but not sure if one of the other last step products should be eliminated if i use the W&W?

 

Thoughts?

 

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What are you actually using for your base protective coating?  Everything you have mentioned is just a maintenance adder really.

 

Buttery would not be my choice for much of anything unless you really like waxing on a monthly basis.

 

Is there a reason you are appying buttery after HGG? Is this a daily driver?

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22 minutes ago, rrmccabe said:

What are you actually using for your base protective coating?  Everything you have mentioned is just a maintenance adder really.

 

Buttery would not be my choice for much of anything unless you really like waxing on a monthly basis.

 

Is there a reason you are appying buttery after HGG? Is this a daily driver?

^I'm well aware of this.

Basically in my discussions with some friends, neighbors and co-workers have expressed interest in having me do a interior/exterior detail to their vehicles. I didn't really solicit it or ask for it just kind of fell into my lap. In trying to make it accessible and affordable for the laymen i'm doing a basic interior/exterior cleaning and trying to offer as much protection as possible without going into territories i don't have enough experience in to offer as a service. I.E. paint correction, polishing, buffing etc. I would say almost all the cars are DD and these people just want to have their car look as good as possible without breaking the bank or getting into the nitty gritty of the entire detail process. I explain my process to them and am transparent on what they should expect after the service. 

Granted buttery wax isn't a durable protection product but for efficiency's sake it's the only wax i could consider using in the window of time i have the vehicle and it does a lot for shine factor. Ultimately that's why i posted this question here . . . i want to provide more protection and i know W&W is more durable but not too sure how i should alter the rest of the wash process.

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I think you need to get wax down first before you even consider things like wash and wax and guard and gloss.

 

And Adams offers waxes with much more longevity than buttery that really do not take any more time to apply. Nothing against buttery but its not something I would use for a daily driver.  Honestly for daily drivers I would jump straight to LPS (or ceramic).

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I typically do a wash/glaze/H2O application. I like the result that gives and the ease of application. Honestly sometimes I will just do H2O and it makes the vehicle pop like crazy. Time factor plays a role there. Some cars have hidden secrets like really dirty rims and tires that I have to spend more time on. That’s when I just do the one step. I would agree though buttery is just something I rarely reach for because it lacks longevity and also because the GG is such an awesome product. You could use the Wash and Wax as your maintenance wash on the clients cars a month down the road. I really haven’t messed with wash and wax much so I don’t know how well it plays with various LSPs.

 

IMHO the steps you are describing would be overkill though.

Edited by Junior
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I realize buttery is not ideal for daily drivers but it is the quickest/easiest wax to apply and still gives a wow factor with appearance and at least provides some protection. it’s also 1/2 the cost of any paste wax.

although id love to provide longer term protection i think LPS would be the answer over wax as it’s more or less the same application process and achieves long term protection.

as far as maintaining these vehicles with W&W it’s hard to say wether these people are going to have me service their cars more than once and at what intervals. 

to stay on topic. . if i wanted a more long term protection for a car i’ve never serviced before using LPS would i even bother with HGG at that point? 

so would this be the appropriate process?

wash and dry

LPS

and MAYBE buttery over he top?

 

and keep in mind i have a car for 4-5 hours to do interior and exterior so i’m trying to keep the process as streamlined as possible.

 

 

Edited by ColoradoSHObro
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Travis,

 

       In my experience, the HGG gives pretty decent lasting results. I know LPS claims a year, but I really don’t believe it offers much more longevity than HGG. To me, it’s really a time vs performance thing. The HGG kills the others there. Sure you could spend an extra 30-45 minutes doing LPS or whatever, but if it’s me, I’d rather add glaze as a first step or do two layers of HGG. Both of those are faster. Using the wax or LPS doesn’t net much in the way of extra benefits. And again I am looking at it with time vs benefit/performance being weighed heavily. Others might have a different opinion. I’m basing this on my personal experience.

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Oh and the one thing to note with using HGG, I typically keep a bucket of warm water with APC or MFBR solution on standby to help remove the sealant from the towels. Otherwise, you run the risk of waterproofing them.

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14 hours ago, Rich said:

Wash.........polish...........wax.  Don't put the wax down first then the polish or paint sealant.  

This i am clear on.

15 hours ago, Junior said:

Travis,

 

       In my experience, the HGG gives pretty decent lasting results. I know LPS claims a year, but I really don’t believe it offers much more longevity than HGG. To me, it’s really a time vs performance thing. The HGG kills the others there. Sure you could spend an extra 30-45 minutes doing LPS or whatever, but if it’s me, I’d rather add glaze as a first step or do two layers of HGG. Both of those are faster. Using the wax or LPS doesn’t net much in the way of extra benefits. And again I am looking at it with time vs benefit/performance being weighed heavily. Others might have a different opinion. I’m basing this on my personal experience.

I can't say i have a lot of experience with the HGG but my initial impression is that it does have some longevity to it. and if that's true then i don't know if need to change my process at all. The "long term" protection is built in when using the HGG as a drying agent and it's by far the easiest/fastest product for me to apply. Maybe i'll just stick with it and observe results

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Honestly man I would. That is way better than traditional wash and wax details we used to do results wise. Trust me, I used to put Buttery Wax on all my clients cars and I did LPS a few times too. I was never really blown away by either of those products. They were decent, but they had draw backs in time and ease to apply vs longevity. H2O strikes a perfect balance there. If I am going to offer a better service for clients now, it is Ceramic Coating. Those  obviously require more time and effort.

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On 6/24/2018 at 6:23 PM, Junior said:

Travis,

 

       In my experience, the HGG gives pretty decent lasting results. I know LPS claims a year, but I really don’t believe it offers much more longevity than HGG. To me, it’s really a time vs performance thing. The HGG kills the others there. Sure you could spend an extra 30-45 minutes doing LPS or whatever, but if it’s me, I’d rather add glaze as a first step or do two layers of HGG. Both of those are faster. Using the wax or LPS doesn’t net much in the way of extra benefits. And again I am looking at it with time vs benefit/performance being weighed heavily. Others might have a different opinion. I’m basing this on my personal experience.

 

Actually, Adam's PS claims at least 6 months. And in my experience, HGG - which I LOVE - lasts a month or two, although I'm using it as a maintenance vs. stand-alone (which it can be used for, as well) product on top of the PS

 

I'll offer this article on layering products and the differences between them:

 

 

Edited by falcaineer
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Yeah I’m not saying it won’t last longer but honestly for the amount of work it takes, I’d rather spend the time doing other things. I’ve never gotten it to remove without some level of high spots and that’s after applying by machine. I’m just trying to give my perspective based on the times I’ve used the three products mentioned. H2O is somewhere between BW and LPS in longevity, but destroys both in ease of application, things you can apply on,  and gloss. If I’m detailing for a client I’m reaching for that 10 times out of 10.

Edited by Junior
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On 6/24/2018 at 6:26 PM, Junior said:

Oh and the one thing to note with using HGG, I typically keep a bucket of warm water with APC or MFBR solution on standby to help remove the sealant from the towels. Otherwise, you run the risk of waterproofing them.

Thats a great tip that i never thought of. Is there a good way to give them a thorough wash now that there probably is some chemical accumulation of HGG on them?

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Man once it sets in it’s pretty difficult to get out. I have a ton of waterproof towels now?. I just pretty much try and make sure now that I wash towels in specific loads to avoid cross contamination. People say you can boil them, but I tried it and it never helped mine.

 

So now any time I’m using H2O I prep a bucket with warm water and MFBR and throw the towels in as soon as I’m done. I wring them out several times to help get most of the H2O out and allow them to soak for a bit before washing.

Edited by Junior
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1 hour ago, ColoradoSHObro said:

Yeah a couple of my borderless greys are starting to lint now. Not sure if that's a sign of waterproofing or what but it sucks. Things aren't exactly cheap

 

With this set on sale plus 15% off, they're a steal! https://adamspolishes.com/the-stack-adam-s-borderless-gray-towel-24-pack.html

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