Procedure check...

[Eric91Z]

Ok, I have read through others and got a few things filled in here and there, but doing a full detail on the Impala this coming weekend.  First time with Adam's products on this car and it hasn't been touched in about a year (other than washes here and there).

 

Looking at the following:

 

1. Wash wheels, tires, wheel wells with APC, Rubber & Tire, Wheel cleaners

2. APC for Engine bay

3. Front end and mirror cap bug removal work

4. Strip Wash on the car

5. Iron Remover

6. Clay

7. Wash with Ultra Foam in Foam Gun

8. Dry

9. Paint Correction, as needed

10. Headlight Restoration

11. Paint Sealant

12. Brilliant Glaze (Paint and windows)

 

 

Then of course rest of needed detailing with VRT, window cleaning, etc.

 

I am just trying to verify that initial clean process.  Do I need to re-wash the car after Iron Remover and before Clay bar?  I know Clay Bar will help remove iron spots, too, but know there will be a lot on the car and want the Iron Remover to help with that process.  And I have always done a quick wash of the car after doing Clay Bar.

 

And for this round, planning on drying after the last wash, check for any needed paint correction work, and then lay down Paint Sealant/BG.  Will use the H2O as go forward, now and then, after hand washes.  But any reason to use the H2O with this process?  I see people go back and forth on H2O then PS or PS and then H2O?  Especially if finishing with BG?

 

 

[BHarris23]

1 hour ago, Eric91Z said:

Ok, I have read through others and got a few things filled in here and there, but doing a full detail on the Impala this coming weekend.  First time with Adam's products on this car and it hasn't been touched in about a year (other than washes here and there).

 

Looking at the following:

 

1. Wash wheels, tires, wheel wells with APC, Rubber & Tire, Wheel cleaners

2. APC for Engine bay

3. Front end and mirror cap bug removal work

4. Strip Wash on the car

5. Iron Remover

6. Clay

7. Wash with Ultra Foam in Foam Gun

8. Dry

9. Paint Correction, as needed

10. Headlight Restoration

11. Paint Sealant

12. Brilliant Glaze (Paint and windows)

 

 

Then of course rest of needed detailing with VRT, window cleaning, etc.

 

I am just trying to verify that initial clean process.  Do I need to re-wash the car after Iron Remover and before Clay bar?  I know Clay Bar will help remove iron spots, too, but know there will be a lot on the car and want the Iron Remover to help with that process.  And I have always done a quick wash of the car after doing Clay Bar.

 

And for this round, planning on drying after the last wash, check for any needed paint correction work, and then lay down Paint Sealant/BG.  Will use the H2O as go forward, now and then, after hand washes.  But any reason to use the H2O with this process?  I see people go back and forth on H2O then PS or PS and then H2O?  Especially if finishing with BG?

 

 

It may vary, but I would say no to the wash after iron remover/clay. Wash the car (with strip wash or car shampoo with APC added), iron remover, clay car with leftover soap in bucket, and then rinse. 

 

Some me like to use detail spray when claying. If you’re gonna do paint correction, I wouldn’t use the detail spray since it’ll be a layer blocking the paint from the polisher. 

[Eric91Z]

Thanks for that input.  Didn't know the DS would block polisher.  Good to know on that.  And use clay with leftover soap.  Never tried that.  Thanks!

 

[rrmccabe]

I personally would still use the DS. 

 

I would give all the trim a good coating of VRT before paint correction.

[Eric91Z]

9 minutes ago, rrmccabe said:

I personally would still use the DS. 

 

I would give all the trim a good coating of VRT before paint correction.

 

Luckily this car doesn't have a lot of exterior trim to hit, so that will be easy.

[wildcatz80]

Step 9 going to step 11. Don't you need to apply coating prep before PS? 

[cwp2016nd]

You can also use rinseless wash diluted down to a clay lube so you don't use detail spray and put something on the panel that the polisher will have to take off. I never use a drying aid or "detail spray" before or while claying. Just less stuff to clog the pad and fight against you. 

[cwp2016nd]

2 minutes ago, Speedracerx said:

Step 9 going to step 11. Don't you need to apply coating prep before PS? 

It certainly helps. I always wipe the whole car down with a wax and grease remover before applying any form of protection for the best chance of adhesion. 

[BHarris23]

6 minutes ago, Speedracerx said:

Step 9 going to step 11. Don't you need to apply coating prep before PS? 

Could use that or 50/50 iso-water mix. A little cheaper and readily available than coating prep. 

[cwp2016nd]

21 minutes ago, BHarris23 said:

Could use that or 50/50 iso-water mix. A little cheaper and readily available than coating prep. 

Even retail level wax and grease removers do incredibly well. Duplicolor or rustoleum "paint prep" is perfect and cheap! 

[rrmccabe]

Since Adams says its OK to put BG down before sealant, I don't think its that critical.

[BHarris23]

38 minutes ago, cwp2016nd said:

Even retail level wax and grease removers do incredibly well. Duplicolor or rustoleum "paint prep" is perfect and cheap! 

I’d still go with iso-water. Don’t think can get much cheaper than that. 

[rrmccabe]

2 minutes ago, BHarris23 said:

I’d still go with iso-water. Don’t think can get much cheaper than that. 

 

I agree. Its cheap and I use it often just to make sure.

[cwp2016nd]

2 hours ago, BHarris23 said:

I’d still go with iso-water. Don’t think can get much cheaper than that. 

The paint prep solvents have more lubrication in my experience. 

[Chris@Adams]

Sounds good, however I would reverse 11 & 12.

[Eric91Z]

11 minutes ago, Chris@Adams said:

Sounds good, however I would reverse 11 & 12.

 

 

11 & 12 order seems to flip flop based on who’s posting. What is preference and why?

 

[Chris@Adams]

If you put the BG down first it will last longer.

[Beemer]

51 minutes ago, Chris@Adams said:

If you put the BG down first it will last longer.

 

If you put the PS down first it will last longer.

 

[BHarris23]

The whole point of BG is to add shine and fill in imperfections. If you’re doing paint correction, you shouldn’t technically need the fillers. Therefore, I’d recommend the PS first. Then you can start your layers of wax and glaze as you want.