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Bscott94

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I figured I would go ahead and start a thread to document the transformation of my new garage. It is rough right now but I can't wait to transform it and display my growing Adam's collection. Right now, I'm working on the kitchen. Painting cabinets and new flooring. I'll try to remember to take some pictures of the garage tonight but for now, here are some dirty kitchen pictures.

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Here are some pictures of the garage. It's pretty big. At some point, the floor was painted red. There is one light bulb in it right now. I plan on adding led ceiling lights soon. I will also build some kind of work bench and shelves. I'd like to have the floor redone. I might look into fixing the drywall and painting as well. Adding a storage and display area for my growing Adam's collection will be coming soon. 

 

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Here is a suggestion for the back of the Garage.  If you pick up some folding louvered doors, they will not only hid the utility area, but also help keep the temperature steady during the winter.   The louvered doors allow some ventilation, but they still restrict the flow of air to keep the temp more consistent.

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5 hours ago, RayS said:

Here is a suggestion for the back of the Garage.  If you pick up some folding louvered doors, they will not only hid the utility area, but also help keep the temperature steady during the winter.   The louvered doors allow some ventilation, but they still restrict the flow of air to keep the temp more consistent.

That’s a great idea. I never would’ve thought of that. I think I’m going to leave it open though. I plan on putting work bench and shelves along the wall starting in that far corner where the crappy shelves are now. I also want to put a sink on the back wall so I can use warm water in the hose. I might put a couple doors up to hide the hvac and water heater. 

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Looks like a great canvas that doesnt need a whole lot of attention. Work benches and such should be designed to function for what you use them for. I have gotten to the point that I just will not buy one at a store as there is always some point that is being sacrificed for what I want to use them for. The nice thing with this is that you can size it exactly how you like and make it fit into spots that normally things wouldnt fit into. IT can also allow for an easy way to make it taller or shorter than average based on your needs. One quick idea for work benches in garages, I like to put small paver blocks or concrete pads under the legs that way any water or anything that gets on the floor is not soaking into the legs of shelves or benches. 

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11 hours ago, Hookem06 said:

Definitely post finished pics once finished. 

 

remodels can be fun, especially shops, & garages... to see the finished product and be happy with it. 

I will post pictures for sure. I had to cut a hole in the ceiling/walls because the bathroom upstairs was leaking and the drywall was soaked and molding. Good news, it doesn't look too severe, it's kind of annoying. 

2 hours ago, pirahnah3 said:

Looks like a great canvas that doesnt need a whole lot of attention. Work benches and such should be designed to function for what you use them for. I have gotten to the point that I just will not buy one at a store as there is always some point that is being sacrificed for what I want to use them for. The nice thing with this is that you can size it exactly how you like and make it fit into spots that normally things wouldnt fit into. IT can also allow for an easy way to make it taller or shorter than average based on your needs. One quick idea for work benches in garages, I like to put small paver blocks or concrete pads under the legs that way any water or anything that gets on the floor is not soaking into the legs of shelves or benches. 

I am excited that it is pretty much a blank canvas. I built shelves and a work bench at an apartment we had previously. I attached everything to the walls. That is a good idea to put the legs on pavers. I'm thinking of building something a lot larger here so I will probably need support from the ground as well. There is a lot that I want to do. I will just have to see what my budget allows. 

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7 minutes ago, 8675309'SS said:

Oh no! What happened?

 

4 minutes ago, pirahnah3 said:

Well, its obviously a water leak.....hopefully nothing serious. 

Bingo, you got it Jim. The seller hired a company to fix a few electrical and plumbing issues and they couldn't get scheduled before we closed so they just wrote checks. They guys did the work on Thursday. I didn't have water when I went over Thursday night and when I came back Friday after work, that is what I saw when I walked it. The water shut offs in the kitchen upstairs began leaking at some point. I don't know how or when the water came back on between Thursday evening and Friday evening. The plumber must have tried to use the shut offs when he tried to rebuild the kitchen faucet. I'm guessing turning them caused the old, brittle seals to go bad and they began leaking. The plumbing company is covering some (they better cover all) of the damage. There was a water restoration company out this morning and they checked walls, floors, and cabinets and found moisture in almost all of the kitchen floor. All of the lower cabinets contained moisture. It sounded like a lot of it would be able to be dried and salvaged but they said all of the lower cabinets would likely need to be replaced. We have to be out of our current place by 9/13 so this should be a pain in my rear for the next 2 weeks. Fingers crossed everything moves quickly. 

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Oh ouch, yeah moisture is no good, and sadly most of the cabinets these days are made out of particle board, or MDF of which neither do well with water on them for long periods of time. I would push for them to cover it all, and in all honesty I would get your insurance company involved letting them know what happened so that they can help you fight this. Hopefully they can get at least the floor taken care of quickly for you and have things mostly level when you move in.....actually if it makes the kitchen unusable can you even move in? Will they issue a CO if you dont have access to the stove? Not sure of the laws out your way. Oh, and get a copy of the before and after moisture tests, proves the water was removed later on if anything ever happens. 

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I think I have decided that I hate water more than anything else. The roof/rear glass/trunk leaks on my Forte so the trunk gets soaked anytime it rains. And now this happens. We were in the process of painting the cabinets and all of the doors and drawers were laying on rosin paper under where it leaked so they got soaked as well. 

 

We are going to push them on it. I contacted the realtors that helped us in our search and they are going to do everything they can to get the plumbers to cover everything. They couldn't believe something like this happened just 12 days after closing. They said it usually takes 3-5 days to dry everything out and then repairs are subcontracted. Hopefully we can get that pushed along. It has nasty linoleum currently and I think they said that would have to be removed and then they would let the subfloor dry out. We had already bought vinyl plank flooring to put in the kitchen so hopefully they'll just reimburse us on that since it's necessary now. I had to look up what "CO" meant but I found out that Indianapolis does not issue Certificate of Occupancy. I don't want to move in without a functioning kitchen but we might have to. I have requested everything from the restoration company. Since the plumbers are at fault, everything will go to them but I asked for them to send me a copy as well.  

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Keep nicely pushing and you should be ok. Requesting the moisture test data should not be too hard to get ahold of and if nothing else is just good piece of mind. You already closed so the CO shouldnt have been an issue. Hopefully they just take care of everything, speaking to the flooring can you return what you bought and get your money back so that you dont even need to play games with them? That way they can just have a contractor provide it? Or if you can get knowledge of the contractor maybe you can work a deal with them. 

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I think it will all work out. The plumber seemed to realize it was on them. He didn't admit that they screwed up but he knew that something happened. It wasn't leaking and then they did work and it began leaking. It was hard to tell how extensive the damage was but the moisture readings showed that it spread out everywhere. A lot of that might just need the fans blowing for a little bit and no other real action. I'm sure I can return it. We have had it for a couple weeks and I'm keeping all of the receipts for this place. I'll just not mention the flooring and if they ask what I want installed, I'll tell them vinyl plank and sell them what I have or they can buy their own. The boxes of flooring are in the condo but if they ask about it, I can say it's for our bedroom or something. The kitchen has sheet vinyl now so I think the planks are comparable. 

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59 minutes ago, Bscott94 said:

I think it will all work out. The plumber seemed to realize it was on them. He didn't admit that they screwed up but he knew that something happened. It wasn't leaking and then they did work and it began leaking. It was hard to tell how extensive the damage was but the moisture readings showed that it spread out everywhere. A lot of that might just need the fans blowing for a little bit and no other real action. I'm sure I can return it. We have had it for a couple weeks and I'm keeping all of the receipts for this place. I'll just not mention the flooring and if they ask what I want installed, I'll tell them vinyl plank and sell them what I have or they can buy their own. The boxes of flooring are in the condo but if they ask about it, I can say it's for our bedroom or something. The kitchen has sheet vinyl now so I think the planks are comparable. 

Hate to see you post something like this after recently purchasing a home...welcome to home ownership! Since you just purchased your home and it appears to be an older home a home warranty from a company like AHS or HSA could be a great investment. Prices depend on your area but for me is costs a $600/year which isn't bad at all. I bought my first home last summer and had the seller purchase the top tier home warranty plan of my choosing at no cost to me. It ended up paying for itself in the first year as I found out my guest bathroom's shower valve had a slow leak and it was trickling down the drywall and onto the carpet spike strip. I found it while I was removing the carpet to put down new hardwood tile floors. In the end it cost me $75 to have them rip open the wall, remove the moldy dry wall, replace the value and patch it up. My home is only 12 years old but this year I renewed my policy because living in central Alabama I am expecting my A/C unit to need replacing within the next couple of years. That job alone will cost $5,000-10,000 but with my policy I'll simply pay $75 and it'll be replaced! Also, you only have 30 days from closing to purchase a home warranty that actually covers all repairs, fixing walls, all interior electrical ,etc. Past 30 days the warranty programs are decent but nowhere near as good. Just some food for thought! 

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Enjoy your new home!

 

This is what I used to build my shelves and work benches in my garage.  They may not look designer, but they are bomb proof and super strong.  One bench I have probably 8 bundles of shingles and a bunch of extra tile should I need it one day for a repair.  You can build them any size and height that you desire.  

 

2x4's and OSB or whatever you choose to sheet it with.

 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-18-Gauge-ZMAX-Galvanized-2X-Rigid-Tie-Connector-RTC2Z/204834336

 

Depending on what you plan on storing you may or may not be ok using any screw.  I use these screws for the structural integrity.  

 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-8-x-1-1-4-in-Phillips-Wafer-Head-Strong-Drive-Screw-100-Box-SD8X1-25-R/206101783

 

As far as your plumbing goes is that leak under the P-trap on the tub or something else?  This is why I have just learned to do stuff myself.  I have a hard time trusting repair people and they want a ton of money for stupid stuff.  I had a minor leak in my bathroom sink drain tonight while putting the sink back together.  Contractor that did the countertop screwed up and brought a counter top for an under mount sink.  To talk the wife into accepting it, they gave her the sink.  I had to strip all the old hardware off the old one and reinstall on the new sink.  The mack washer being on there for 18 years didn't want to seal.  Cost me $3 to replace and no more leak. 

 

That hole may look serious, but in all honesty it is pretty easy to repair.  No home repair project is all that difficult for the most part.  Some proper tools and patience. 

Edited by LFairbanks
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After posting stuff below, I realized you're painting your cabinets.  May be helpful in another part of your house, or to someone else.

 

As far as your cabinets go, look at the link below.  You can also go to YouTube and in the search bar type in "General Finishes".  Tons of informative videos on using the product.  I was looking at using it when I refinished my cabinets earlier this year.  I just couldn't get the color I was after and didn't want to mess with making a recipe and tinting.  It isn't like going to the paint store and asking for a color.  It was too much work IMO.  I found General Finishes at Woodcraft Supply.  You may or may not have one locally.  Their website will allow you search for a place that sells it in your area.  

 

 

I ended up sanding my cabinets down, which was a ton of work and them staining them.  Still wasn't the exact color I was after, but the process that I was trying to match was sprayed.  The wife said "NO" to spraying in the house and therefor accepted what I had come up with.  The process above in the link if you find a result you like is super easy.  Use the back of a drawer front as your experiment piece.  If you don't like it, wipe it off with some acetone.  Comes right off.  

 

Another video to look at.  I had never dabbled in staining until my cabinets.  The end results are endless depending on technique and product used.

 

 

Edited by LFairbanks
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10 hours ago, crrafferty89 said:

Hate to see you post something like this after recently purchasing a home...welcome to home ownership! Since you just purchased your home and it appears to be an older home a home warranty from a company like AHS or HSA could be a great investment. Prices depend on your area but for me is costs a $600/year which isn't bad at all. 

Anything can happen. I would have done the plumbing and electrical repairs myself but the seller got quotes and the title company wrote checks to the contractor. I wish the check would've been written to myself and I could chosen whether I wanted to pay someone or do it myself. We actually did get a home warranty. Our service fee is $65. Something is wrong with the ice maker in our fridge so I will be calling on them for that. Also, our dryer wasn't getting hot. I googled the dryer and the issue and found out that it was a $30 repair. I'll definitely see if it cheaper to fix myself but if it looks like its going to be more than my service fee, I'll let someone else deal with it. 

10 hours ago, LFairbanks said:

Enjoy your new home!

 

This is what I used to build my shelves and work benches in my garage.  They may not look designer, but they are bomb proof and super strong.  One bench I have probably 8 bundles of shingles and a bunch of extra tile should I need it one day for a repair.  You can build them any size and height that you desire.  

 

As far as your plumbing goes is that leak under the P-trap on the tub or something else?  This is why I have just learned to do stuff myself.  I have a hard time trusting repair people and they want a ton of money for stupid stuff.  I had a minor leak in my bathroom sink drain tonight while putting the sink back together.  Contractor that did the countertop screwed up and brought a counter top for an under mount sink.  To talk the wife into accepting it, they gave her the sink.  I had to strip all the old hardware off the old one and reinstall on the new sink.  The mack washer being on there for 18 years didn't want to seal.  Cost me $3 to replace and no more leak. 

 

That hole may look serious, but in all honesty it is pretty easy to repair.  No home repair project is all that difficult for the most part.  Some proper tools and patience. 

Thank you! That equipment looks stout. It is also easy to use and reasonably priced. I'll have to look into that. That would be easier and prettier than just sandwiching 2x4s together. 

 

It was the p-trap. On the quote that the seller got, it said the plumber would cut exploratory holes in search of the leak and the repair would be $250-500. The ceiling was clearly wet so I went ahead and cut it open and was just going to ask the plumber what he thought while he was there. He ended up fixing it. The plumbers also wanted $325 to replace the kitchen faucet. I told them not to worry about it and I ordered a new faucet for $80. There are a few things I wouldn't be comfortable doing but I am pretty handy and I like feeling accomplished after fixing something, either around the house or on the cars. And speaking to the hole in the garage ceiling, I also have to make more holes to install my lights so I'll probably just wait and repair everything at once. The drywall in the garage is in bad shape anyway. 

9 hours ago, LFairbanks said:

After posting stuff below, I realized you're painting your cabinets.  May be helpful in another part of your house, or to someone else.

 

As far as your cabinets go, look at the link below.  You can also go to YouTube and in the search bar type in "General Finishes".  Tons of informative videos on using the product.  I was looking at using it when I refinished my cabinets earlier this year.  I just couldn't get the color I was after and didn't want to mess with making a recipe and tinting.  It isn't like going to the paint store and asking for a color.  It was too much work IMO.  I found General Finishes at Woodcraft Supply.  You may or may not have one locally.  Their website will allow you search for a place that sells it in your area.  

 

We got a Rustoleum cabinet painting kit from Menards. It was around $70 and came with deglosser, base coat, optional decorative glaze, and the top protective coat. No sanding, just a lot of scrubbing and cleaning to prep the surface. It looked amazing and I was one coat away from being done with the base coat. Hopefully the doors will dry out and be fine. I try to avoid staining because I never seem to get two different pieces to match correctly. It looks great when its done right though. 

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When you go to put your new kitchen faucet in, either run a bead of silicone around where the faucet contacts the countertop, or use plumbers putty.  There are two types of plumbers putty. One that will stain certain surfaces, and one that will not.  I would use the plumbers putty over the silicone IMO.  I would suggest using the stain free stuff unless it were an application such as a steel tub (drain) or stainless steel sink (drain).

 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-9-oz-Stain-Free-Plumber-s-Putty-31177/203013821

 

Another tip to avoid brush marks in your paint.  

 

Use this in water based paint.  

 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Flood-Floetrol-1-qt-Clear-Latex-Paint-Additive-FLD6-04/100198078

 

This in oil based paint.

 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Flood-Penetrol-1-gal-Paint-Additive-FLD4-01/100114897

 

I just pour some paint in a cup and just add some of the additive and stir.  No real science behind how much.  I just add until it goes right.  Wait for it to dry some, as it levels as it dries.  Don't just brush it on and think you need more.  You may not.  It is over by the paint sprayers.  Half the time people at the home improvement stores don't know what it is.  This goes for a lot of stuff.  I asked a guy working in the plumbing department one time where the plumbers putty was and he had no clue what it was.  

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22 minutes ago, LFairbanks said:

When you go to put your new kitchen faucet in, either run a bead of silicone around where the faucet contacts the countertop, or use plumbers putty.  There are two types of plumbers putty. One that will stain certain surfaces, and one that will not.  I would use the plumbers putty over the silicone IMO.  I would suggest using the stain free stuff unless it were an application such as a steel tub (drain) or stainless steel sink (drain).

 

Another tip to avoid brush marks in your paint.  

 

I just pour some paint in a cup and just add some of the additive and stir.  No real science behind how much.  I just add until it goes right.  Wait for it to dry some, as it levels as it dries.  Don't just brush it on and think you need more.  You may not.  It is over by the paint sprayers.  Half the time people at the home improvement stores don't know what it is.  This goes for a lot of stuff.  I asked a guy working in the plumbing department one time where the plumbers putty was and he had no clue what it was.  

I have plumbers putty. I am going to replace the drain baskets as well. They are nasty. I'll add some around the faucet when I put it in. 

 

I think we want to see brush marks. We may or may not use the decorative glaze and the texture from the brush marks is how it shows itself. I'll keep that in mind for other painting projects though. I didn't know that existed. 

18 minutes ago, LFairbanks said:

What is the fridge doing?  I have one that is very similar and have had issues with it.  I may be able to give you some ideas to look into.  Your dryer is the heating element.  Really easy to fix.

Here is what the ice maker was doing. It happened when the shut offs started leaking even though the fridge has been plugged in and hooked to water from the day we got the place. It was the heating element. It took like 5 minutes to take the back off and suck out all the lint and replace the heating element. 

FF9B780B-29C8-4AA8-8D09-77BA1368A39B.jpeg

Edited by Bscott94
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Your water valve is leaking.  I had something similar and the ice was damming up in the chute where the water flows into the ice tray.  It would seep a little and freeze and repeat, creating an ice dam.  It is fairly easy to replace.  Mine is located on the bottom left as your facing the fridge in the back.  Just follow your water line from the wall it will lead you right to it.  Looks similar to what I have pictured.  Ignore the mess in the background.  It is supplies for my projects that I'm doing to the house.  The water dispenser is leaking here and there is why I happen to have a new one.  Will change it eventually.

 

 

 

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Edited by LFairbanks
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