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gbee

To Ceramic Coat or not

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I have been contemplating doing the ceramic coating on my 2009 Infiniti G37. The vehicle has been taken care of however there are rock chips on the bumper and a couple on the hood that a pretty small. I am wondering if I would have to purchase touch up paint before ceramic coating or would it be safe and acceptable to go right over them with the coating. The next question is should I for go the coating and just buy the paste and boost and use those products instead? I am comfortable doing the prep work just having a hard time deciding what to do. Thanks everyone. 

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What steps do I need to do as i have been using the old and new Ceramic Boost on my ceramic coating and now want to reapply more ceramic coating.  Original is 1 year old

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26 minutes ago, gbee said:

I have been contemplating doing the ceramic coating on my 2009 Infiniti G37. The vehicle has been taken care of however there are rock chips on the bumper and a couple on the hood that a pretty small. I am wondering if I would have to purchase touch up paint before ceramic coating or would it be safe and acceptable to go right over them with the coating. The next question is should I for go the coating and just buy the paste and boost and use those products instead? I am comfortable doing the prep work just having a hard time deciding what to do. Thanks everyone. 

 

As with any scratches, swirls, etc., it's highly recommended you fix the chips before you coat. Otherwise you'll have to live with them until the coating is removed in those areas (for Adam's ccoating that's done by polishing). Pretty sure the touchup paint needs to bond to the bare paint/metal/primer. Coating will inhibit that bond. But it is safe to go over them if you decide to do so.

 

Coating or not is your call. It all comes down to proper prep. @shane@detailedreflections wrote a great article here for some insights. However you proceed, feel free to ask any more questions you have.

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1 hour ago, gbee said:

I have been contemplating doing the ceramic coating on my 2009 Infiniti G37. The vehicle has been taken care of however there are rock chips on the bumper and a couple on the hood that a pretty small. I am wondering if I would have to purchase touch up paint before ceramic coating or would it be safe and acceptable to go right over them with the coating. The next question is should I for go the coating and just buy the paste and boost and use those products instead? I am comfortable doing the prep work just having a hard time deciding what to do. Thanks everyone. 

I did the same thing. I also drive a 2013 ford escape though. But I did not  think that my car was worth enough to have a ceramic coating. So i went with the ceramic wax and boost. I bought it when they had the BOGO sale going on and got a really good deal for it all. I am very happy with the way it turned out. The wax is awesome no doubt about that, but the coating would clearly just one up the wax.

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Can't believe I forgot to include the link...I use it all the time on here for similar questions...but here's a great article to help with your decision.

 

 

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Having seen @shane@detailedreflections work and a couple of Adams home jobs, I can say that PREP IS KEY! do your prep and polish get it as close to perfect as you want it and then take your time. Coatings have their place but there is a cost to them, really depends on where you want to put your money and time. 

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I was also trying to decide if I should put a coating on my wife's new Highlander. I've decided to stick with paint sealant for now as I'm concerned about the work involved removing the coating if I were to screw it up.  Plan is to do paint correction and sealant this Columbus Day weekend.

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7 minutes ago, rseward said:

I was also trying to decide if I should put a coating on my wife's new Highlander. I've decided to stick with paint sealant for now as I'm concerned about the work involved removing the coating if I were to screw it up.  Plan is to do paint correction and sealant this Columbus Day weekend.

 

Removing high spots with Adams coating is easy. Finishing polish and a white pad. Reapply. Buff. Live happy. 

 

Adams is not a difficult coating to work with or remove. 

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Posted (edited)

Everyone thanks for the help and responses. I pulled the trigger and ordered the ceramic coating. I’ll post some before and after's when I get this project done 

Edited by gbee

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On 10/1/2018 at 8:13 PM, shane@detailedreflections said:

 

Removing high spots with Adams coating is easy. Finishing polish and a white pad. Reapply. Buff. Live happy. 

 

Adams is not a difficult coating to work with or remove. 

When applying the Ceramic coating, should i do more than 1 coat. I see others doing 5 -10 coats of other coatings....

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47 minutes ago, gbee said:

When applying the Ceramic coating, should i do more than 1 coat. I see others doing 5 -10 coats of other coatings....

 

Those are other coatings designed to be layered. And it’s commonly not all the same product layer to layer. Maybe a couple of one, more of another. 

 

Our highest end coating is one layer of a base and two layers of the topping agents. 

 

Adams is designed as a single layer product. You could do two, but I’d question the benefits other than giving yourself more of a workout and taking more time. 

 

We just shot a time lapse of just the base layer and it took three of us who are experienced with coatings approximately one hour to put just the base down. Granted that coating is a bit harder to work with in terms of buffing off and all, but imagine doing a whole vehicle by yourself like most people do?  Then, doing multiple coats knowing it won’t change much in your final product. 

 

If you’re using Adams coating, I’d keep it to one layer and top it with ceramic boost. Keep it simple. 

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On 10/9/2018 at 7:09 AM, shane@detailedreflections said:

Thank you for your help!

Those are other coatings designed to be layered. And it’s commonly not all the same product layer to layer. Maybe a couple of one, more of another. 

 

Our highest end coating is one layer of a base and two layers of the topping agents. 

 

Adams is designed as a single layer product. You could do two, but I’d question the benefits other than giving yourself more of a workout and taking more time. 

 

We just shot a time lapse of just the base layer and it took three of us who are experienced with coatings approximately one hour to put just the base down. Granted that coating is a bit harder to work with in terms of buffing off and all, but imagine doing a whole vehicle by yourself like most people do?  Then, doing multiple coats knowing it won’t change much in your final product. 

 

If you’re using Adams coating, I’d keep it to one layer and top it with ceramic boost. Keep it simple. 

 

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6 hours ago, VaporSRT said:

What steps do I need to do as i have been using the old and new Ceramic Boost on my ceramic coating and now want to reapply more ceramic coating.  Original is 1 year old

 

Why do you want to apply more?  The old coating shouldn’t be in need of reapplication already. If it’s not acting the same as it used to, it’s most likely dirty and needs decontamination. 

 

But if you really want to, here’s how to do it. If your vehicle has swirls/damage, you’ll be polishing off the old and polishing the paint to satisfaction and then reapplying. 

 

If youre just reapplying, you will wash, iron remover, clay and we would quickly use a finishing polish to ensure the surface is clean prior to reapplication. If you take some of the existing coating off, it doesn’t matter since you’re reapplying anyway. Then coating prep and reapply. 

 

It’s nearly the whole process all over again. 

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On 10/15/2018 at 4:45 AM, shane@detailedreflections said:

 

Why do you want to apply more?  The old coating shouldn’t be in need of reapplication already. If it’s not acting the same as it used to, it’s most likely dirty and needs decontamination. 

 

But if you really want to, here’s how to do it. If your vehicle has swirls/damage, you’ll be polishing off the old and polishing the paint to satisfaction and then reapplying. 

 

If youre just reapplying, you will wash, iron remover, clay and we would quickly use a finishing polish to ensure the surface is clean prior to reapplication. If you take some of the existing coating off, it doesn’t matter since you’re reapplying anyway. Then coating prep and reapply. 

 

It’s nearly the whole process all over again. 

Quick question, I have strip washed, iron x'ed, washed, clayed, washed and began my paint correction process.. So far so good. My question now is when it comes to the emblems the chrome door handles do i just go right over them with the ceramic coating? Or do I tape them off with blue painters tape?

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16 hours ago, shane@detailedreflections said:

You can go right over them with the ceramic coating. 

Shane last question! I’m using the griots. Fast correcting cream and finishing polish. Is it bad to use the finishing polish because I think it acts as a sealant and I’m not sure it this is gonna be a problem when it comes time to the ceramic coating. 

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I’m not familiar with the Griots finishing polish. Typically for the best finish you would want to use a finishing polish. You don’t want one with waxes or sealants in it. Coatings should go to bare paint. We wouldn’t use a one step or all in one prior to a coating. 

 

For the cost of finishing polish, pick up a bottle and guarantee you don’t have issues. 

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11 hours ago, gbee said:

Shane last question! I’m using the griots. Fast correcting cream and finishing polish. Is it bad to use the finishing polish because I think it acts as a sealant and I’m not sure it this is gonna be a problem when it comes time to the ceramic coating. 

 

Griots has a perfecting creme which is a finishing polish, and they also have a finishing sealant which is like a AIO.  You don't want to use the finishing sealant.

Also, I can vouch for Adam's finishing polish as I just used it and it works great. 

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On 10/18/2018 at 6:13 AM, shane@detailedreflections said:

I’m not familiar with the Griots finishing polish. Typically for the best finish you would want to use a finishing polish. You don’t want one with waxes or sealants in it. Coatings should go to bare paint. We wouldn’t use a one step or all in one prior to a coating. 

 

For the cost of finishing polish, pick up a bottle and guarantee you don’t have issues. 

Yes I def made the mistake of using the finishing polish which has waxes in it. Now will the prep spray remove everything needed to coat or would i have to rewash with a strip wash before coating?

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26 minutes ago, shane@detailedreflections said:

Honestly, I’d simply start over from step one and use a true finishing polish. It’ll be much less stressful than wondering what went wrong if something doesn’t look right in the end. 

Can you recommend one that I can pick up right away 

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3 hours ago, gbee said:

Can you recommend one that I can pick up right away 

By right away I assume you mean locally. If that’s the case, Meguiars 205 should be available at Walmart. It’s a great finishing polish. 

 

But the adams finishing polish works great as well if you can order and wait for it. 

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Just finishing applying the coating.. Some spots went on easier and others were really sticky. Im down in S. FL and its still gross and hot. I noticed some areas had lines on the door panels an appeared greasy looking. Any Ideas are those high spots?

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