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Suggestions for best process for using Ceramic Paste on new car

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I want to try the Adams Ceramic Paste on my new Genesis G70.  The car is about a month old.  I was thinking of using a clay bar to get any contaminants off first, but was wondering if I should do any pre-conditioning to the paint surface before applying the ceramic paste.  My current plan is as follows:

1.  Wash car throughly (should I use a grease cutter like Dawn for this pre-wash, or just a normal car wash?)

2.  Clay Bar

3.  Correcting polish (would a month old car need this?)

4.  Finishing polish

5.  Ceramic paste

 

Is this overkill?  Or what else should I consider for the best outcome?  Thanks for any help or advice!

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That process sounds perfect. I wouldn't use Dawn. You could mix a few ounces of APC in with the car wash soap if you'd like. Claying and polishing will remove any wax on the paint though. Decontamination and polishing can absolutely be needed. After clay, start with finishing polish on a test area (usually the hood) and see how it looks. If you're happy, there's no need to use correcting polish. I would also add surface prep before the wax, either Adam's or just 50% isopropyl alcohol. 

 

PS: we like pictures. Show off that new car!

PPS: don't forget to introduce yourself here.

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3 hours ago, Bscott94 said:

That process sounds perfect. I wouldn't use Dawn. You could mix a few ounces of APC in with the car wash soap if you'd like. Claying and polishing will remove any wax on the paint though. Decontamination and polishing can absolutely be needed. After clay, start with finishing polish on a test area (usually the hood) and see how it looks. If you're happy, there's no need to use correcting polish. I would also add surface prep before the wax, either Adam's or just 50% isopropyl alcohol. 

 

PS: we like pictures. Show off that new car!

PPS: don't forget to introduce yourself here.

 

Appreciate it, Brandon!  Just so I'm on the same page (newbie here), I want to make sure I'm on the same page with you.  I'm assuming means APC is the Adams All Purpose Cleaner?  And is there a specific product for the surface prep?  Not sure if I have an Adams product for that.  And if I use the 50% Iso Alc, Do I dilute it to 50%?  Or if I find one that's already 50%, do I just put in on a rag and wipe the surface down?  Never heard of this step.  

 

Thanks, bud!

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6 minutes ago, TOBASCO said:

 

Appreciate it, Brandon!  Just so I'm on the same page (newbie here), I want to make sure I'm on the same page with you.  I'm assuming means APC is the Adams All Purpose Cleaner?  And is there a specific product for the surface prep?  Not sure if I have an Adams product for that.  And if I use the 50% Iso Alc, Do I dilute it to 50%?  Or if I find one that's already 50%, do I just put in on a rag and wipe the surface down?  Never heard of this step.  

 

Thanks, bud!

Yes, APC is All Purpose Cleaner. Here is the Surface Prep that Adam's sells. This step cleans residue from the surface so that your Last Step Product is bonding to bare paint. I use 50% isopropyl from the pharmacy. I just dump a little bit on a borderless towel and wipe the car down after polishing. 

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The Ceramic Paste Wax is an amazing product, but as Brandon pointed out, the prep is the most important part.  Once you have used Ceramic Paste Wax, about one a month or so, you'll want to go over it with Ceramic Boost, which I use as a drying agent after a wash.   If the vehicle needs washing more than once a month, then just use Adam's Car Shampoo and a two bucket was and any dirt will just roll off.

 

When you actually use the Ceramic Paste Wax, remember that you want to use very little.  I've found that a 1/2 turn with the applicator is enough to do a panel, with the exception of the hood.  Put it on thin, let it cure to the point that you don't leave a finger print when you touch it and wipe it off.  I try to do two panels at a time always going over the previous panel twice with two different double-soft towels.  

 

Here are a couple of links of cars that I've done with Ceramic Paste Wax:  

 

I'm looking forward to seeing pictures of your ride, before and after.

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Good overall process, with some suggestions. 

 

- Add Iron Remover before or after clay. Here's why:

 

 

- Polishing should be done least aggressive first. Tape off (painters tape, no locking edges) a 2x2 section (hood is a good slplace) and start with FP and white pad. Did that get results you want? If so, proceed with the rest of the car with the same combo, potentially needing more aggressive in some spots. If not, try CP and orange pad and check again. Then do the whole car. Following this process will save you time and potential frustration getting done and realizing you need more correction. Watch the videos on Adam's website for more guidance.

 

- Dawn will work fine. Some will disagree, but I used it when starting out with no ill effects. Other options are a few ounces of APC in your wash bucket with soap, or Strip Wash. 

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On 5/13/2019 at 8:29 PM, falcaineer said:

Good overall process, with some suggestions. 

 

- Add Iron Remover before or after clay. Here's why:

 

 

- Polishing should be done least aggressive first. Tape off (painters tape, no locking edges) a 2x2 section (hood is a good slplace) and start with FP and white pad. Did that get results you want? If so, proceed with the rest of the car with the same combo, potentially needing more aggressive in some spots. If not, try CP and orange pad and check again. Then do the whole car. Following this process will save you time and potential frustration getting done and realizing you need more correction. Watch the videos on Adam's website for more guidance.

 

- Dawn will work fine. Some will disagree, but I used it when starting out with no ill effects. Other options are a few ounces of APC in your wash bucket with soap, or Strip Wash. 

 

Falcaineer - I'm going to be doing this on a month old car.  Would you still recommend the iron remover?  {Edit] - never mind.... just watched the video!  :)

 

Edited by TOBASCO

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8 hours ago, TOBASCO said:

 

Falcaineer - I'm going to be doing this on a month old car.  Would you still recommend the iron remover?  {Edit] - never mind.... just watched the video!  :)

 

 

Yes, still recommended. Rail dust is common on new cars, and who know whatever else may be on there. Certainly won't hurt.

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8 hours ago, Rich said:

Hit it with Ceramic Boost every so often to keep that shine.  The whole ceramic line is good stuff. 

I've found that about every 4 weeks for a vehicle that stays outside and about every 6 weeks for a garage kept vehicle.  After hitting them with boost, it looks as good as the day you put the Ceramic Paste Wax on it. 

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3 hours ago, RayS said:

I've found that about every 4 weeks for a vehicle that stays outside and about every 6 weeks for a garage kept vehicle.  After hitting them with boost, it looks as good as the day you put the Ceramic Paste Wax on it. 

 

Add in Ceramic Waterless and it's a match made in heaven!

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Ok Guys - after reading your suggestions, here is my current plan for my car (Genesis G70):

 

1.  Wash car thoroughly and rinse

2.  While wet, apply Adams Iron Remover to surface, then rinse off

3.  Clay Bar entire surface with Gyeon clay lube. (does the car need to be washed/rinsed after clay bar, or can I just apply finishing polish?) 

4.  Apply Adams Finishing polish

5.  Apply Gyeon Q2M Prep

5.  Apply Adams Ceramic paste

6.  Ongoing maintenance with Ceramic Boost.

 

Another other suggestions or edits?   Thanks everyone!   I'll post pics when done.

Edited by TOBASCO

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Pretty good overall plan. A few suggestions:

 

  • I have always rinsed after clay stage, and you probably will want to dry the car before applying finishing polish.
  • As a general rule, be aware of how long your leave the vehicle with water on it. Water spots can show up so quickly and easily. I say this because I learned the hard way.. and am still learning the hard way lol
  • I also have no experience with applying finishing polish. So I don't know if there's anything to watch out for when prepping or protecting on top of that. But my guess is that everything should be fine regarding that.
  • Another general rule, if you're going to clean/protect wheels, make sure you do the cleaning of the wheels as the very first step in your whole process. And later in the process (probably after clay stage, if you decide to dry the car) you can use Ceramic Boost as a drying aid on the wheels (takes like 1/2 a spray per wheel) to get a nice shine and layer of protection on them.

 

 

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22 hours ago, TOBASCO said:

3.  Clay Bar entire surface with Gyeon clay lube. (does the car need to be washed/rinsed after clay bar, or can I just apply finishing polish?

 

2 hours ago, Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin said:

I have always rinsed after clay stage, and you probably will want to dry the car before applying finishing polish.

 

You can, but really don't need to. Polishing will remove any clay/DS residue. Saves time and effort by just starting to polish vs rinse and dry.

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2 hours ago, falcaineer said:

 

 

You can, but really don't need to. Polishing will remove any clay/DS residue. Saves time and effort by just starting to polish vs rinse and dry.

 

Ahh I see, Thanks! Is there any concern for waterspots? Or does that just not matter since you're polishing anyways?

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27 minutes ago, Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin said:

 

Ahh I see, Thanks! Is there any concern for waterspots? Or does that just not matter since you're polishing anyways?

 

I did actually wash and dry the car after the clay bar, just because of all the residue remaining, but realize now that the finishing polish probably would have taken that off - but I know it's clean!  LOL

 

I finished the process through the finishing polish yesterday.  I did notice that there were some water spots on the trunk area when I started the polish step, and afterward they were entirely removed by the finishing process.  Car looks great right now, and I'll be putting a coat of Adams Ceramic paste on this afternoon.  It's in the 50's today - is there any issue with applying the ceramic paste at temps in the 50's? (indoor garage).

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26 minutes ago, TOBASCO said:

 

I did actually wash and dry the car after the clay bar, just because of all the residue remaining, but realize now that the finishing polish probably would have taken that off - but I know it's clean!  LOL

 

I finished the process through the finishing polish yesterday.  I did notice that there were some water spots on the trunk area when I started the polish step, and afterward they were entirely removed by the finishing process.  Car looks great right now, and I'll be putting a coat of Adams Ceramic paste on this afternoon.  It's in the 50's today - is there any issue with applying the ceramic paste at temps in the 50's? (indoor garage).

 

You'll be fine at that temp and indoors. Just apply a thin, even layer...a little goes a long way...and work one panel at a time (split hood, maybe) to apply and remove. Letting it sit any longer can make it harder to remove...not impossible, but more elbow grease for sure.

 

And post some pics when you get done!

Edited by falcaineer

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58 minutes ago, Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin said:

 

Ahh I see, Thanks! Is there any concern for waterspots? Or does that just not matter since you're polishing anyways?

 

No issue. But realize if it's etching polish may not completely remove them.

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44 minutes ago, falcaineer said:

 

No issue. But realize if it's etching polish may not completely remove them.

That's great, you just saved me a step and like 20 minutes. lol

 

 

1 hour ago, TOBASCO said:

 

I did actually wash and dry the car after the clay bar, just because of all the residue remaining, but realize now that the finishing polish probably would have taken that off - but I know it's clean!  LOL

 

I finished the process through the finishing polish yesterday.  I did notice that there were some water spots on the trunk area when I started the polish step, and afterward they were entirely removed by the finishing process.  Car looks great right now, and I'll be putting a coat of Adams Ceramic paste on this afternoon.  It's in the 50's today - is there any issue with applying the ceramic paste at temps in the 50's? (indoor garage).

Haha well we both learned we can skp that step.

Good luck, I'm excited to see the finished product.

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