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14 hours ago, RayS said:

If you have a fiberglass vehicle, try to find a snowmobile hood for your experimentation.  Again, they are light, easy to move around and pretty much react the same way as fiberglass vehicle.  When I lived near Buffalo, they were easy to get since so many ended up getting broke during the winter or maybe they were just off my snowmobiles  😉

 

Snowmobile hood?  Don't you live in the Palmetto state?

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6 hours ago, mc2hill said:

 

Snowmobile hood?  Don't you live in the Palmetto state?

I do now after living in Upstate NY for many years and a few years in Alaska.

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On ‎7‎/‎9‎/‎2019 at 7:17 PM, Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin said:

 

You're welcome. I enjoyed it!

 

If you have the time and money, I say you should go for it. I don't think you'll be disappointed with your results. Adams has many detailed videos about polishing, so take a look at some of those like @tlbullet mentioned. and get to know the purpose of each of the pads and polishes. From there you can probably decide if you're ready for polishing.

 

If you don't have many defects in your paint, It's likely that you could stick to the Orange Correcting Polish with an Orange Pad and/or the White Finishing Polish with a white pad.

 

 

I have been trying to get a good clear picture to post, close up of my paint, so you can see from experience if I am stating this correctly.  But I don't see the scratch marks or swirl marks referenced in most of the polishing videos on either of my vehicles.  Maybe they will be visible after the strip wash though, that I don't know.  If I can get a legible picture I'll post it so you guys can see if I'm correct or just an untrained eye. 

 

So, assuming that I don't have them, from what I am seeing in the vids (thank you for recommending that Juan) the White Finishing Polish is the very least that I should do right? 

 

Also, I had another question.  If I do my wheels completely ahead of time, say a day or so like suggested, when I go back and foam and strip was the vehicle, wouldn't that undo some of my work?  Again, I am learning here so forgive me if I am asking the obvious.  The good thing is that I do have 2 vehicles and drive a company vehicle to work, so I can work on this for a couple days in and out of the garage as needed without undoing my work driving around.

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6 hours ago, stalebreadjr said:

I have been trying to get a good clear picture to post, close up of my paint, so you can see from experience if I am stating this correctly.  But I don't see the scratch marks or swirl marks referenced in most of the polishing videos on either of my vehicles.  Maybe they will be visible after the strip wash though, that I don't know.  If I can get a legible picture I'll post it so you guys can see if I'm correct or just an untrained eye. 

 

So, assuming that I don't have them, from what I am seeing in the vids (thank you for recommending that Juan) the White Finishing Polish is the very least that I should do right? 

 

Also, I had another question.  If I do my wheels completely ahead of time, say a day or so like suggested, when I go back and foam and strip was the vehicle, wouldn't that undo some of my work?  Again, I am learning here so forgive me if I am asking the obvious.  The good thing is that I do have 2 vehicles and drive a company vehicle to work, so I can work on this for a couple days in and out of the garage as needed without undoing my work driving around.

 

If you're checking inside, try checking it outside when the sun is a little bit lower in the sky (maybe around 7pm ish during these summer days). I notice that if I walk around my vehicle at that time, and really focus on whats in the reflection of my paint I can see the really minor defects. Also it may be difficult to catch in a picture, I've never tried. If you can't take it outside because Georgia's a storm breeding ground, then try shining a flashlight (LED works well) pointed a little bit towards you and try and focus on whatever is in the reflection. See how they did it in the picture below, they are pointing the light a bit towards themselves and looking in the reflection around the light, you can see the defects pretty clearly (comes from https://adamspolishes.com/products/adam-s-swirl-finder-flashlight ). In the picture you'll see farther down, the guy has taken a picture of the reflection of the sun, and you can see the defects around the light. 

 

Adams_polishes_Swirl_finder_light-1_1680x768.progressive.jpg?17989

 

Finishing Polish is the least abrasive of the 3 polishes. So, in short, yes that's likely the only think you'll have to do. Make sure to try a test section - Like a 2x2 section on your hood works well (if you mark the section with painters tape, your results can be as clear as the picture from google below), and then see if you're happy with the results. If after you have done your 2x2 section , you think you need something more aggressive, try using the Correction Polish and an Orange Pad. From what you're saying, your paint sounds like it's in great condition and only using Finishing Polish with the White Pad will be perfect! There's a lot of variables in polishing, but my best guess is that finishing polish will leave your paint looking better than new (not exaggerating)! Remember to take your time, enjoy the process, and feel free to ask any more questions!

 

Image result for test section polish

 

That's a great question, and I think I understand what you're asking! My simple answer is that if you're going to drive the vehicle on the road again, then the wheels will become contaminated. If it just sits in the garage and you move it out onto the driveway to do your strip washing, it should be fine. Originally, when @GXPaycheck suggested that (great suggestion by the way), I was going to recommend you add protection to the wheels, but if you're gonna follow up later with strip wash, then the protection would be removed. Does that make sense? Let me know if I misunderstood the question.

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Hi Matt,

If the vehicle is truly in a clean state, you may want to consider Revive Hand Polish over Finishing Polish.  One of the first reviews that I read when I came to this forum was about Revive and I ordered my first bottle.   I keep my vehicles in good shape and they don't always need a true polishing and that is where Revive comes in.  If I were to look in my book, I'm pretty sure it would show I use Revive twice for every one time I actually polish one of my vehicles.  

 

It will remove minor imperfections and swirls, the key being minor and something that is just a little more than what using Brilliant Glaze will cover.  If you aren't familiar Brilliant Glaze will hide minor imperfections and swirls.

 

I always use the Blue hand pad and for some places like the bottom of the trunk, I might have to use a orange hand pad.    If the Orange hand pad with Revive does not work, then I know it needs more correcting for the area.  The rule is to always use the least aggressive method possible and you don't have to use the same method for the entire vehicle. 

 

The picture with the Malibu is after I can cleaned it with Waterless Wash and applied Spray Wax, but a couple of weeks prior I had gone over the car with Revive.  I think it looks pretty good for a 2013 with 90,000 miles on it.

Malibu Spray Wax.jpeg

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Alright, I think you folks have given me a lot to think about and narrow down.  I really really do appreciate your kindness and detailed responses.  I've got 2 weeks of away time (vacation and work) and then I'll be placing my final orders.  I'll keep this thread updated w/ pics when I get my order in and start on my vehicles.  Thanks especially to Juan for the detailed write up but I'm not leaving out any thanks for all the helpful responses from others like Ray.  BTW Ray, I watched the video in your linked thread and was blown away when they used RHP to remove spray paint from that hood!!!  Also, the Malibu looks great!

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