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Hood streaks with every product


jswhite

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Not matter what product I use on my hood, it streaks.  On the rest of the car, everything looks great.  The hood on the other hand is a PITA.  I know the clear coat is starting to fail.  Could that be the cause?  The only way to remove the streaks (Brillant Glaze, Buttery Wax, H2O G&G, etc.) is either claying or using revive hand polish.  Even detail spray leaves streaks.  In any ideas what is causing this and what a potential remedy might be?

 

 

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I have a similar problem with my truck.  There are 'crows feet' where the paint under the clear coat is cracked.  I have found working a smaller sections helps.  I spray Detail Spray in 1/4 of the hood, and wipe with the already damp part of the towel, then flip to the slightly damp side, then fold the towel a dry 'inside' section.  I sometimes will redo a section to get it looking better. 

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9 hours ago, jswhite said:

Finally got around to taking some pics of the hood.

IMG_6349.thumb.jpg.83522b803d722e08015865de409d6082.jpg

 

 

 

IMG_6350.thumb.jpg.91e22e16fb9ca47b2ff5749ed5a4a9de.jpg

 

IMG_6352.thumb.jpg.4105d2a22c38af74173a476235e55e9b.jpg

 

Is this clear coat failure or oxidation?

 

Sorry, but I lean towards clear coat failure. Only way to fix it, if so, is a repaint. If you have Revive, you could try it to see if it removes the oxidation. But again, looks like failure to me.

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2 hours ago, falcaineer said:

Sorry, but I lean towards clear coat failure. Only way to fix it, if so, is a repaint. If you have Revive, you could try it to see if it rlos oxidation. But again, looks like failure to me.

That definitely does not look like "streaks." The blotchy appearance leads me to agree with Chris, regarding possible clear coat failure, but believe any attempt to polish should be made with something more aggressive than Revive and a hand applicator. I suggest trying an orbital with Correcting (or even Heavy Correcting) Polish and appropriate pad. While doubtful it can be resurrected, that might delay wrapping or repainting.

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8 hours ago, falcaineer said:

 

Sorry, but I lean towards clear coat failure. Only way to fix it, if so, is a repaint. If you have Revive, you could try it to see if it rlos oxidation. But again, looks like failure to me.

I have some Revive.  How would that indicate it if it is oxidation or not?

 

5 hours ago, Norton said:

That definitely does not look like "streaks." The blotchy appearance leads me to agree with Chris, regarding possible clear coat failure, but believe any attempt to polish should be made with something more aggressive than Revive and a hand applicator. I suggest trying an orbital with Correcting (or even Heavy Correcting) Polish and appropriate pad. While doubtful it can be resurrected, that might delay wrapping or repainting.

Just to clarify, this is the way the hood looks after a car wash without any additional toppings.  (I should have noted that in the photos.) The streaks occur when I try to put something on top of it. 

 

Is it safe to machine polish it?  I was worried that polishing it might make it look worse if it is truly clear coat failure.  I'm dying to bust out the new polisher and this could be a great first project!

 

Thanks to all of you for your replies.

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23 minutes ago, jswhite said:

I have some Revive.  How would that indicate it if it is oxidation or not?

 

Just to clarify, this is the way the hood looks after a car wash without any additional toppings.  (I should have noted that in the photos.) The streaks occur when I try to put something on top of it. 

 

Is it safe to machine polish it?  I was worried that polishing it might make it look worse if it is truly clear coat failure.  I'm dying to bust out the new polisher and this could be a great first project!

 

Thanks to all of you for your replies.

 

I mention Revive because it's least aggressive and a paint cleaner, so if it helps it could indicate oxidation vs. something worse like clear coat failure.

 

I recommend you take it to  a local paint shop and see what they say. I had the same thing happen to me, took it to a paint shop, and discovered it was indeed clear coat failure (also on a black car). I wound up selling the car before taking additional measures (note: a repaint isn't necessarily what led me to sell it, but it did weigh into the equation).

 

If you move forward without the paint shop, and you're prepared financially for a repaint, you could bust out the polisher and see what happens. Start with Finishing Polish, if available, and work your way up. Just understand when you polish you're removing clear coat, so if it is failing, you're expediting that process and could even burn the rest of the way through.

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4 hours ago, jswhite said:

I have some Revive.  How would that indicate it if it is oxidation or not?

 

Just to clarify, this is the way the hood looks after a car wash without any additional toppings.  (I should have noted that in the photos.) The streaks occur when I try to put something on top of it. 

 

Is it safe to machine polish it?  I was worried that polishing it might make it look worse if it is truly clear coat failure.  I'm dying to bust out the new polisher and this could be a great first project!

 

Thanks to all of you for your replies.

 

Do you have access to a paint thickness gauge?  Very low readings will help you decide if it is clear coat failure.  

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1 hour ago, falcaineer said:

 

I really need to consider getting one of those!

I have a sub $150 version that gives me "piece of mind" when doing paint correction.  It is also a nice tool to have when car shopping - you get some odd looks when you ask when specific panel has been repainted!

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On 9/3/2019 at 6:57 AM, falcaineer said:

 

I mention Revive because it's least aggressive and a paint cleaner, so if it helps it could indicate oxidation vs. something worse like clear coat failure.

 

I recommend you take it to  a local paint shop and see what they say. I had the same thing happen to me, took it to a paint shop, and discovered it was indeed clear coat failure (also on a black car). I wound up selling the car before taking additional measures (note: a repaint isn't necessarily what led me to sell it, but it did weigh into the equation).

 

If you move forward without the paint shop, and you're prepared financially for a repaint, you could bust out the polisher and see what happens. Start with Finishing Polish, if available, and work your way up. Just understand when you polish you're removing clear coat, so if it is failing, you're expediting that process and could even burn the rest of the way through.

 

Took it to a couple of body shops to look at the hood and the driver's side door (major clear coat failure).  The first body shop said they wouldn't touch it because taking the door handle off would trigger the car alarm and only the Land Rover dealer (Its a 2011 and the closest is 2 hours away) could reset it.  I asked couldn't they just tape it off and he said no way.  I took that as code for he doesn't want to mess with it at all (lazy).  I took it to another local paint shop.   They quoted $1,000 and 5 days to do both.  I asked him about the door handle issue and he looked at me funny and said, "We would just tape it off..." like it was no big deal.  I chuckled.   The door looks awful so I have to do something.

 

I was concerned that polishing it would make the clear coat damage worse.  Now knowing that I have a repaint of the hood and door in my future, I took @falcaineer's advice and polished the hood with Finishing Polish.  It definitely made a difference.  The clear coat damage is still there, the swirls are still there but the mottled haziness on the hood went away.  I threw a coat of paint sealant (by hand - don't have that pad yet) on there and it did not streak as it did previously.  All in all, it looks much much better plus I got in some practice with the polisher!  I'm thinking that the haziness was a mix of oxidation and clear coat failure.  Polishing just knocked out the oxidation.  I might go back and hit it with Correcting Polish to see if it improves it even more and to get some more "risk free" practice.

 

Thanks again for all the advice!

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1 hour ago, jswhite said:

 

Took it to a couple of body shops to look at the hood and the driver's side door (major clear coat failure).  The first body shop said they wouldn't touch it because taking the door handle off would trigger the car alarm and only the Land Rover dealer (Its a 2011 and the closest is 2 hours away) could reset it.  I asked couldn't they just tape it off and he said no way.  I took that as code for he doesn't want to mess with it at all (lazy).  I took it to another local paint shop.   They quoted $1,000 and 5 days to do both.  I asked him about the door handle issue and he looked at me funny and said, "We would just tape it off..." like it was no big deal.  I chuckled.   The door looks awful so I have to do something.

 

I was concerned that polishing it would make the clear coat damage worse.  Now knowing that I have a repaint of the hood and door in my future, I took @falcaineer's advice and polished the hood with Finishing Polish.  It definitely made a difference.  The clear coat damage is still there, the swirls are still there but the mottled haziness on the hood went away.  I threw a coat of paint sealant (by hand - don't have that pad yet) on there and it did not streak as it did previously.  All in all, it looks much much better plus I got in some practice with the polisher!  I'm thinking that the haziness was a mix of oxidation and clear coat failure.  Polishing just knocked out the oxidation.  I might go back and hit it with Correcting Polish to see if it improves it even more and to get some more "risk free" practice.

 

Thanks again for all the advice!

 

Glad it worked out! Any new pics?

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Based on having more than one place where you have a clear coat failure, I would recommend have the entire vehicle repainted.  It is really the only way to ensure you won't end up with another failed area in the near future.  In addition, trying to get a partial repaint to fully match it nearly impossible since they will fade at different rates.

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1 hour ago, RayS said:

Based on having more than one place where you have a clear coat failure, I would recommend have the entire vehicle repainted.  It is really the only way to ensure you won't end up with another failed area in the near future.  In addition, trying to get a partial repaint to fully match it nearly impossible since they will fade at different rates.

Thanks for the advice.  You are probably right but this is an 8 year old car with 150,000 miles on it.  The second body shop guy very quickly said the front door was a bad repaint job.  I bought the car used in 2015 and it had a clear CarFax...  This might also explain the hood.  The rest of the car looks pretty good given the age of the car; the body shop guy even commented on it. 

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Sorry for the delay.  Finally got car back into garage.  First pic is before.  Second pic is after.  Still doesn't look great (lighting doesn't help) but it looks much much better in the sunlight.  I hope you can see the difference.   Remember I only used FP.   Last pic is the driver side door that has to get repainted.  

 

IMG_6350.thumb.jpg.cdd19fe124d8e6fc756f3835e39e3375.jpgIMG_6389.thumb.jpg.f77a165771cac29393b475b1f94b847f.jpgIMG_6390.thumb.jpg.25a2ba761bbd011466f0578c1aacceaf.jpg

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13 hours ago, jswhite said:

Definitely not acceptable but better.  I'll probably get it repainted next month.

 

If you're planning on keeping the car for a while, be wary of the cheap paint shops. Invest now, or potentially pay (way) more later. Just my two cents. 

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