Headlight Restoration Method Comparison

[Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin]

This weekend I did two different methods of Headlight Restoration. 

 

One was a 10 Step Restoration on a really yellow really badly oxidized set of lights. (Beat up 2004 White Honda Odyssey)

 

The other was a 5 Step restoration on a not as badly oxidized set of lights. (2001 Toyota Rav4)

 

My goal with these headlights were not to make them perfect (although I tried, but just to cut away the oxidation and improve visibility for night time driving. To start with on both, I wiped down the headlights with diluted Rinseless Wash to remove any dirt or dust. Then taped off the paint, the grill and the rubber pieces surrounding the headlight. On each I did a test section to figure out what process I wanted to do.

 

10 Step Restoration:

Step 1: Wet Sand with 600 grit Sand Paper by hand

Step 2: Wet Sand with 800 grit Sand Paper by hand

Step 3: Wet Sand with 1200 grit Sand Paper by hand

Step 4: Wet Sand with 2000 grit Sand Paper by machine with soft foam interface, (after machine use by hand to get into the corners and areas where polisher wouldn't reach.

Step 5: Wet Sand with 3000 grit Sand Paper by machine with soft foam interface.

Step 6: Heavy Correcting Compound and Microfiber Pad by machine (multiple passes and stops to use conditioning brush and spritz DS or add more HCC)

 Step 7: Sprayable Compound and Microfiber Pad by Machine  (multiple passes and stops to use conditioning brush and spritz DS or add more SC)  

Step 8: Sprayable Compound and Blue Foam Pad by Machine  (multiple passes and stops to use conditioning brush and spritz DS or add more SC)

Step 9: Finishing Polish with White Pad

Step 10: Revive Hand Polish with Blue Hex Grip Applicator

 

 

(Forgive the Loud Background Noise, I wasn't able to figure out how to turn the audio down)

 

(Forgive the Loud Background Noise, I wasn't able to figure out how to turn the audio down)

 

I found this very effective for really cutting away the nastiness and revealing a fully new layer of plastic. Wet sanding is a bit of a scary process. Seeing sanding marks is very unsettling even when you know that if you follow the process it will work.

 

I found that there were a good number of scratches left in the headlight plastic that I couldn't get out. Im not completely sure, but I imagine that's a matter of spending more time with the 2000 and 3000 grit and the Heavy correcting compound to make sure I properly phase out the previous sanding marks.

 

Anyways the plastic is very clear after this method, just has some scratches which I should have spent more time getting out.

 

 

Picture above shows headlight on the right has not been restored vs. the one on the left which has been restored.

 

5 Step Restoration:

Step 1: Heavy Correcting compound on a Synthetic Wool Pad by Machine (multiple passes, stopping to use conditioning brush once and spritzing DS)

Step 2: Heavy Correcting Compound on One Step Pad by machine  (multiple passes, stopping to use conditioning brush once and spritzing DS)

Step 3: Heavy Correcting Compound on Blue Foam Pad  (multiple passes, stopping to use conditioning brush once and spritzing DS)

Step 4: Finishing Polish with White Pad

Step 5: Revive Hand Polish with Blue Hex Grip Applicator

 

It's clear to see that this is an immense improvement and definitely will improve visibility. This way left a scratch free surface, but I'm afraid it didn't cut all the way through the oxidation. There's still a very very light haze.

 

 

 

Protection:

After the Revive Hand Polish on both sets of headlights, I then used a surface prep, and applied Ceramic Spray Coating.

 

 

Comparison:

In conclusion, I'm going to guess that the 10 Step Method was the way to go. I think I successfully cut through all the oxidation,and onto a new layer of plastic. I believe the sanding introduced some scratches along the way and I'll have to get some more practice to figure out how effectively get those scratches out during the process.

 

With the 5 Step Method, I think It will work for a little while, but I think the clarity will start to disappear. I say that because I don't think I got to a new layer of plastic. I think I just cut away some of the nastiness. 

 

Edited December 10, 2019 by Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin

[Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin]

Pictures and videos updated

[stalebreadjr]

Nice detailed post @Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin !  I had a friend ask me about this process at work, I'm gonna point him this way for a reference.  Thanks!

[Rich]

Excellent post Juan!!  

[mc2hill]

Great write-up and results Juan!  

 

I would think you could skip the 2nd and 3rd steps with HCC, and go from the HCC/MF pad to the Finishing pad/polish.  When I am doing headlights I have been using Rupes blue pads and blue topped polish (Zephir, I think), then go to the finishing step, followed by adding protection (Sealant or, if time allows, Trim Coating). 

I did my son's headlights in the parking lot of the Bridal Shower venue last Saturday (we went for beer and oysters + shrimp) in about 10 minutes with my 16v cordless micro polisher, using the above method.      

And I no longer use the DS spritz method, as I think it reduces the effectiveness of the polish (not always a bad thing, sometimes that is needed).  I just clean the pad after 1-2 panels with the brush (as you did).  

Edited December 10, 2019 by mc2hill

[Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin]

On 12/9/2019 at 6:52 PM, stalebreadjr said:

Nice detailed post @Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin !  I had a friend ask me about this process at work, I'm gonna point him this way for a reference.  Thanks!

 

On 12/10/2019 at 12:16 AM, Rich said:

Excellent post Juan!!  

Thanks guys!

 

On 12/10/2019 at 10:12 AM, mc2hill said:

Great write-up and results Juan!  

 

I would think you could skip the 2nd and 3rd steps with HCC, and go from the HCC/MF pad to the Finishing pad/polish.  When I am doing headlights I have been using Rupes blue pads and blue topped polish (Zephir, I think), then go to the finishing step, followed by adding protection (Sealant or, if time allows, Trim Coating). 

I did my son's headlights in the parking lot of the Bridal Shower venue last Saturday (we went for beer and oysters + shrimp) in about 10 minutes with my 16v cordless micro polisher, using the above method.      

And I no longer use the DS spritz method, as I think it reduces the effectiveness of the polish (not always a bad thing, sometimes that is needed).  I just clean the pad after 1-2 panels with the brush (as you did).  

oooh i see. Thank you! Would you typically use an aggressive sand paper like I did on the white odyssey? Or do you usually just stick to compound and polish?

 

also what are your thoughts on that 16v cordless polisher? Is that the Milwaukee that looks like a small drill?

[stalebreadjr]

@Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin can I just ask, since I am not versed in machine polishing, when you are saying that you are conditioning the pad, what exactly are you doing with the brush and what are the cues that tell you to do it?  Is it a build up of the oxidation that you are removing?  Are you just brushing that off with force or what is the method? 

[Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin]

18 hours ago, stalebreadjr said:

@Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin can I just ask, since I am not versed in machine polishing, when you are saying that you are conditioning the pad, what exactly are you doing with the brush and what are the cues that tell you to do it?  Is it a build up of the oxidation that you are removing?  Are you just brushing that off with force or what is the method? 

Sure that’s a good question. So i guess I should have taken a video to best communicate. I do it more preventatively, for foam pads about after every panel or 2. For microfiber and wool pads, you’ll see they get matted and the fibers get all smooshed down. It’s evident with how little theyre able to cut. It kinda looks like they’re just pushing liquid around instead of working it into the panel. I like to do those about every half-1 panel. 
 

for this instance on headlights, I would basically just go over the whole headlight for 3 ish passes and then use the brush.

 

But basically I flipped it to where the pad faces upward, and there’s a brush that you can buy, other people use compressed air. 
 

when I have the option I use both. But I think I prefer compressed air. The brush can eat the pads up if you apply too much pressure.

 

 

let me know if this made sense or if I need to clarify

[67's]

Good write up🤙

I wish I had taken pics/video when I did my sons car with the Adam's kit.

[mc2hill]

On 12/13/2019 at 12:54 PM, Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin said:

 

Thanks guys!

 

oooh i see. Thank you! Would you typically use an aggressive sand paper like I did on the white odyssey? Or do you usually just stick to compound and polish?

 

also what are your thoughts on that 16v cordless polisher? Is that the Milwaukee that looks like a small drill?

 

I always try polishing headlights first, but after doing lots of them you can usually tell what they will need.  I had one set that had been clear coated (poorly done) and I had to dry sand with 600 grit first, then wet sand with 800, 1200, 2000, and polish.

 

I love my Diavolo 16v cordless polisher, but is more like a beefed up version of the Adam's 12v micro polisher.  The Milwaukee 12v looks like another cordless tool called the Mighty Mini' .

[Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin]

3 hours ago, mc2hill said:

 

I always try polishing headlights first, but after doing lots of them you can usually tell what they will need.  I had one set that had been clear coated (poorly done) and I had to dry sand with 600 grit first, then wet sand with 800, 1200, 2000, and polish.

 

I love my Diavolo 16v cordless polisher, but is more like a beefed up version of the Adam's 12v micro polisher.  The Milwaukee 12v looks like another cordless tool called the Mighty Mini' .

Ah yes, I'm familiar with the Diavolo. very cool. And yes, the Mighty Mini is what I pictured.

I hope to one day get my hands on the SK Micro and try that baby out.