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Zaino to Adams Ceramic


Brewder

Question

Hello,

 

I'm a long time user of Zaino products.  I want to switch to a ceramic coating for my 2017 Chevy SS in Regal Peacock Green Metallic (crazy awesome color if you've never seen it).  In the bright sun, the paint looks like a very bright green metallic.  In the shade, it looks black.  I love the depth and richness.

 

This car has very few miles (under 10k) on it but does require some light paint correction to remove swirl marks most likely from the dealer auto car wash (before I took ownership).

 

I'm curious what a basic kit/process would be to strip the existing layers of Zaino.. Claybar, Perform light PC, then apply the ceramic polish and best topper for it (including all of the chrome/plastic trim).

 

I'm new to the slightly overwhelming number of Adams products so looking for a good starting point to get me in the right direction.

 

Thanks!

//Brew

PS... A few pictures of the car are in order!

ChevySS-5.jpg

ChevySS-7.jpg

ChevySS-8.jpg

ChevySS-11.jpg

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Hi @Brewder and welcome to the forum.  The car is rather pretty and I see what you mean about the color changing.

 

There is a wealth of information on the forum and the folks are friendly and helpful for getting started with Adam's products.  When I made the change to Adam's a few years back, having this forum made the switch much easier.  I have multiple vehicles that range from classic to new garage queens and use various Adam's products ranging from Americana up through Ceramic and everything in between.

 

No matter what you decide to use your protectant on the vehicle, the key is the preparation.  I'm not familiar with the Zaino product line, so I'll let other chime in about the removal process for it.   For the Ceramic line, there are three basic choices, Ceramic Paint Coating, Spray Coating or Ceramic Wax.   I have used both the Ceramic Paste Wax and Spray Coating and have been happy with both.

 

The search on site works very well and don't hesitate to ask questions.

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@Brewder welcome! I too made the switch from Zaino a few years back.  I used APC and CS mixed into 5 gallon bucket.  It removed the Z5 easily.  
 I did use the Iron Remover after the stripping then moved onto claying.  I then did a full correction and sealed it with the ceramic paint coating topped off with CpW. 

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Strip wash will remove the Zaino easily.  If you have any swirls at all do yourself a favor and get a SK polisher.

 

I, too, switched to Adam's from Zaino although it was about 10 years ago.  The Adam's line has grown exponentially since then but if you just focus on one category at a time it will start to make sense.

 

You need products for:

 

Car wash

Polishing

Seal/wax or ceramic coating

Maintenance (dependent on above choice)

 

And maybe a few t-shirts and stickers...I

 

The kits are a great way to go when getting started.

 

Good luck!

 

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12 hours ago, tlbullet said:

@Brewder welcome! I too made the switch from Zaino a few years back.  I used APC and CS mixed into 5 gallon bucket.  It removed the Z5 easily.  
 I did use the Iron Remover after the stripping then moved onto claying.  I then did a full correction and sealed it with the ceramic paint coating topped off with CpW. 

 

Thanks for this..  I THINK I have my product/process list going... but not certain what "CpW" is..  here's what I'm thinking:

 

1. Remove Zaino with Strip Wash

2. Iron Remover

3. Clay

4. Correction - either One Step Polish, standard Polish, or Compound (not sure which product is best for me yet)

5. Ceramic Surface Prep

6. Ceramic Paint Coating

7. CpW? - I assume this is a maintenance spray but which product specifically?

 

//Brew

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1 hour ago, Brewder said:

not certain what "CpW"

 

Ceramic Paste Wax. It's since been replaced by Ceramic Coating Wax.

 

Your steps above are great. Of the polishes and Compound, the One Step will get you about 70-80% there, and the Compound is the most versatile of the 3. The Polish is your least aggressive and will finish off what the Compound (haze) may leave behind. Start small section, 1'x1' or 2'x2 (taped off) to see what combo of pads and polish get you, then use that over the rest of the car, touching up as needed.

 

Don't forget before/after pics, and let us know if you have any questions. Looking forward to seeing the finished product 😎

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@falcaineer is on point as usual!  I Have only used the correcting and finishing polish, but i hear the one step is great. 
 The Ceramic Paste Wax (cpw) was revamped and renamed to Ceramic Coating Wax last month or so.  
 I assume its very similar and just an improved version of the cpw.  I have topped off my ceramic coated cars with the cpw and are very happy with the results!

 Looking forward to the pics too!

 And if you have never used a polisher before  there is plenty of info on this forum in order to do it properly.  

Edited by tlbullet
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12 minutes ago, tlbullet said:

@falcaineer is on point as usual!  I Have only used the correcting and finishing polish, but i hear the one step is great. 
 The Ceramic Paste Wax (cpw) was revamped and renamed to Ceramic Coating Wax last month or so.  
 I assume its very similar and just an improved version of the cpw.  I have topped off my ceramic coated cars with the cpw and are very happy with the results!

 Looking forward to the pics too!

 And if you have never used a polisher before  there is plenty of info on this forum in order to do it properly.  

 

Definitely would appreciate that advice too!

 

This is a project I'm planning for early spring.....just getting my plan together..

 

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I just posted this today from a review I did a few weeks ago on the application of the paint coating, spray coating and ceramic boost.  Hopefully this helps.  

 

 

9 hours ago, Brewder said:

 

Thanks for this..  I THINK I have my product/process list going... but not certain what "CpW" is..  here's what I'm thinking:

 

1. Remove Zaino with Strip Wash

2. Iron Remover

3. Clay

4. Correction - either One Step Polish, standard Polish, or Compound (not sure which product is best for me yet)

5. Ceramic Surface Prep

6. Ceramic Paint Coating

7. CpW? - I assume this is a maintenance spray but which product specifically?

 

//Brew

 

This is what I would recommend

 

1. Skip the strip wash.  You would be fine with just the regular shampoo as the Zaino will be removed during the decon process and polishing.  

2. Iron Remover - This is good to do prior to claying to remove any ferrous material and help loosen some contaminants.  Also good to use as part of your decon wash to maintain the coating after a few months.

3. Clay - This is good as it will remove the bonded contaminants from the paint.  

4.  Correction -  Hard to say what is needed without physically seeing the paint.  A test spot would be the best thing to do with say the polish and you can adjust from there.  The paint does not have to be 100% perfect before coating it.  

5.  Surface Prep - This is key as you want to remove any residual polishing oils prior to coating the paint.  Multiple towels are good as they will load up with polish oil residue.  

6.  Ceramic Paint Coating - Application is straight forward once you start using it.  I would recommend using two towels to wipe of the coating.  One to do the heavy lifting and the other for a final pass to remove any remaining product.  Having multiple towels is a must in my experience with coatings over the years of using them.  I prefer low nap and low plush towels rather than the plush high GSM towels.  

7.  I would stick with ceramic boost and the Ceramic waterless wash.  Use the ceramic waterless wash as a drying aid after a wash and then use Ceramic Boost every 4-6 weeks after you dry the paint.   

 

Every 4-6 months I would recommend a chemical decontamination wash to keep your coating as contaminant free as possible.  

 

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I am going to add one additional item to your list, Revive Hand Polish.  It's a great product overall and can even out a panel that doesn't have a consistent shine after your machine polishing.  It's rarely needed for a panel after polishing, but is handy to have available if needed.  I do use it every time on the tail lights and marker lights, it has a cleaning characteristic and polishing that really makes them pop.

 

Taking your list, it would be inserted after step 4, correction and before step 5, surface prep.

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8 hours ago, tlbullet said:

The Ceramic Paste Wax (cpw) was revamped and renamed to Ceramic Coating Wax last month or so.  
 I assume its very similar and just an improved version of the cpw

 

Not just revamped, essentially completely redone. It's an actual coating but now in a paste wax form. Smells like one, too! 😷😯

 

This one flew under the radar.

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20 hours ago, falcaineer said:

 

Not just revamped, essentially completely redone. It's an actual coating but now in a paste wax form. Smells like one, too! 😷😯

 

This one flew under the radar.

Should I tell Mary that putting Classic CPW on her Terrain isn't as good as putting the New CPW on it?  I have 1/2 a tub of CPW left since a little goes a long ways and lasts a long time.  Actually, I have different idea, maybe I should tell her that I need to get a few more Red cars so I can use the products before they go bad from age.

 

I hadn't paid much attention to the update on CPW since I had plenty of product left, but it was absolutely on my list for are repurchase when it runs out.   I love using CPW on coated and non-coated vehicles and the way it looks on the vehicles, so if the new version is an improvement - I'll be thrilled.   If the amount of Wax needed is the same as the classic CPW, you should get about 20 average sized vehicles per tub, which means you are spending $5 on product per vehicle - pretty inexpensive in my book for the quality and longevity.

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This has been an excellent "Adam's educational" thread for me.  I think I have my product list and game plan just about ready for the spring.  I have one remaining question I'm looking for advice on.  Is the Ceramic Wheel coating really necessary or can I simply use the Ceramic paint coating?  With an additional layer, or two, of Ceramic Boost?  (I rotate a full set of tires/wheels in the summer/winter)

 

Each product is roughly $80... of course, the wheel coating will go on 4 wheels, whereas the paint the entire vehicle...

 

Since the Paint Coating product comes with enough to do 2 vehicles/coats, couldn't I simply use it on the wheels?  Or is the wheel version specially formulated for the high temps the wheel/barrel will reach?

 

//Brew

 

 

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18 minutes ago, Brewder said:

This has been an excellent "Adam's educational" thread for me.  I think I have my product list and game plan just about ready for the spring.  I have one remaining question I'm looking for advice on.  Is the Ceramic Wheel coating really necessary or can I simply use the Ceramic paint coating?  With an additional layer, or two, of Ceramic Boost?  (I rotate a full set of tires/wheels in the summer/winter)

 

Each product is roughly $80... of course, the wheel coating will go on 4 wheels, whereas the paint the entire vehicle...

 

Since the Paint Coating product comes with enough to do 2 vehicles/coats, couldn't I simply use it on the wheels?  Or is the wheel version specially formulated for the high temps the wheel/barrel will reach?

 

//Brew

 

 

I have been using the Ceramic Spray Coating on all my wheels and am very happy with how they turn out.  As for longevity, I'm at the just over 6 months and the wheels are still looking good and nothing is sticking to them.  I spray it on a MicroFiber applicator and then wipe the wheels with it and then using a older microfiber cloth I wipe them off.  I do each wheel twice by go around the vehicle twice.  

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4 hours ago, Brewder said:

This has been an excellent "Adam's educational" thread for me.  I think I have my product list and game plan just about ready for the spring.  I have one remaining question I'm looking for advice on.  Is the Ceramic Wheel coating really necessary or can I simply use the Ceramic paint coating?  With an additional layer, or two, of Ceramic Boost?  (I rotate a full set of tires/wheels in the summer/winter)

 

Each product is roughly $80... of course, the wheel coating will go on 4 wheels, whereas the paint the entire vehicle...

 

Since the Paint Coating product comes with enough to do 2 vehicles/coats, couldn't I simply use it on the wheels?  Or is the wheel version specially formulated for the high temps the wheel/barrel will reach?

 

//Brew

 

 

 

You can use the paint coating for wheels and you can maintain with ceramic boost.  50ml's of product goes a long way and you could probably squeeze both vehicles depending on the size and even one solid coat on the wheels depending on the size and style.

 

Wheel coatings in general have higher heat resistance but on a daily driver high heat for a paint coating is a non issue.  The Adams wheel coating is thicker than the paint coating.  

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3 hours ago, Brewder said:

One more question (for now)...  Must I throw away the towels I use to remove/buff the ceramic coating?  Or can they be properly washed and re-used?

 

//Brew

I wouldn’t toss them.just dont use them for any exterior jobs...i moved mine over to interior jobs or door jamb chores drawer!   

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7 hours ago, Brewder said:

One more question (for now)...  Must I throw away the towels I use to remove/buff the ceramic coating?  Or can they be properly washed and re-used?

 

//Brew

toss them.  any towels used applying or removing coating should be tossed.  they will have hardened / cured coating in them

 

direct from adams website "A ceramic coating when cured rejects water for years, so the absorbed ceramic residue will harden, stiffen and cause the towel to become crusty. These products behave no differently when buried deep within the fibers of your towels."

 

 

Edited by stirthepot
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20 minutes ago, stirthepot said:

toss them.  any towels used applying or removing coating should be tossed.  they will have hardened / cured coating in them

 

direct from adams website "A ceramic coating when cured rejects water for years, so the absorbed ceramic residue will harden, stiffen and cause the towel to become crusty. These products behave no differently when buried deep within the fibers of your towels."

 

20 minutes ago, stirthepot said:

 

 

How quickly do they turn bad?  should I plan for 2 towels per panel?  Or can I do an entire sedan realistically with 4 towels??  

 

 

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they are fine for use during the session of getting the car done.  the product in the towels will cure in the same amount of time it does on the car.  so no worries using them for the whole car (assuming you are doing the whole car in the same day)

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3 hours ago, stirthepot said:

they are fine for use during the session of getting the car done.  the product in the towels will cure in the same amount of time it does on the car.  so no worries using them for the whole car (assuming you are doing the whole car in the same day)

I immediately soak mine after using with ceramic spray and then like @tlbullet they are relegated to door jams, trunk edges, wheels, exhaust pipes, and engines.  There is no need to throw them away until they are worn out, just don't use them on the body of the vehicle again.  

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no offense, but there is no way you can expect / be sure soaking gets it all out.  tossing 4 towels that are worth 10-15 bucks isnt worth the time/effort/cost of soaking them and dealing with getting the residue on your hands. 

 

to each his own, but if someone handed me a towel and said there might be some abrasive material in it, there is no way i would put it on any part of my car.  again, just my opinion

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5 hours ago, RayS said:

I immediately soak mine after using with ceramic spray and then like @tlbullet they are relegated to door jams, trunk edges, wheels, exhaust pipes, and engines.  There is no need to throw them away until they are worn out, just don't use them on the body of the vehicle again.  

 

12 hours ago, tlbullet said:

I wouldn’t toss them.just dont use them for any exterior jobs...i moved mine over to interior jobs or door jamb chores drawer!   

 

+1. You can mark the towels in some way, such as with a sharpie/fabric marker in the corner so they aren't mistaken for use on paint. For reference, Adam explained the same in a class I was at with him. 

 

No one is right or wrong, @Brewder, the choice is yours...

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