Touch Up / Correction

[Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin]

Hello friends.

I have a new project coming up soon. The owner of a 2007 Black Toyota Tundra has asked me to do a full restoration on the truck. He also asked me to try to address a key scratch that he has on the paint. I normally wouldn't offer touch up  paint services, but the owner here has acknowledged that he doesn't expect a perfect outcome, but just for it to look better. I accepted the challenge partially because I wanted the experience and to at least try and see if I can help him.

 

I have seen several referrals on here to Dr. Color Chip... I have looked into using either them (Dr. Color Chip) or just a factory paint pen from the dealership. I have extra tools and brushes to fit tighter spaces as needed.

 

Anyways, while I start to plan my process, I have a few questions.

 

- For those that have used Dr. Color Chip, what are some experiences you've had? Anything I should look out for? Do you know of any quirks or anything? I'm also going to apply a Ceramic Coating, will there be a cure time that is going hinder me from that application?-The website claims the products to be fast drying.

 

- On Dr. Color Chip's website, their recommended process is backwards to what I was picturing - They recommend Polishing prior to applying the Touch Up Paint. I'll share the process I have been planning, I would love any input:

        - After Wash and Decon, I plan on cleaning out the scratch with IPA, and then doing a very very light wetsand on the edges of the scratch to create a rough surface for the paint to stick to.

        - Then I would apply the paint to fill the scratch and to mound up farther than the existing painted surface.

        - Then once the paint is dry, I plan on going back and wetsanding/polishing as needed to create a flat surface and remove the mounding that I created. Also to remove any defects that may have been introduced throughout the process.

        - Then following up with a Ceramic Coating.

 

I understand the only real answer to address this is to respray, but the owner and I both have the understanding that this is just in hope to make it look better than before. Just want to help him out.

 

I'll update with the picture I have.

[shane@detailedreflections]

We have experience with the Dr. Color Chip system. Their paint match is spot on. We usually order a squirt and squeegee kit for clients, but we don’t apply it that way. 
 

We use this:

 

Gold Label Detailing Fine Line Fluid Writer Paint Applicator Pen | Precision Touch Up Paint | Perfect for Rock Chips and Scratch Repair | .5mm Tip Brass Construction https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N95TXM8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.7fvEbYQTZWCR

 

A drop of paint and we literally fill the scratch in. Put a layer at a time. Let it cure. Another layer. And so on until it’s built up about higher than the surface of the paint. Let it cure until nice and hard and then polish it down. It’s not always perfect, but it’s an improvement and doesn’t make a mess. A heat gun helps those thin layers cure, but don’t burn the paint since they get hot. 
 

If you have questions, let me know. 

[Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin]

13 hours ago, shane@detailedreflections said:

We have experience with the Dr. Color Chip system. Their paint match is spot on. We usually order a squirt and squeegee kit for clients, but we don’t apply it that way. 
 

We use this:

 

Gold Label Detailing Fine Line Fluid Writer Paint Applicator Pen | Precision Touch Up Paint | Perfect for Rock Chips and Scratch Repair | .5mm Tip Brass Construction https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N95TXM8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.7fvEbYQTZWCR

 

A drop of paint and we literally fill the scratch in. Put a layer at a time. Let it cure. Another layer. And so on until it’s built up about higher than the surface of the paint. Let it cure until nice and hard and then polish it down. It’s not always perfect, but it’s an improvement and doesn’t make a mess. A heat gun helps those thin layers cure, but don’t burn the paint since they get hot. 
 

If you have questions, let me know. 

Shane thanks for taking the time to answer. 

I also want to say how I appreciate how much input you leave on the forums as a whole. It is very helpful.

 

Okay perfect. So do you still apply their Seal Act Blending solution after every layer to fill the scratch? Or do you just apply the paint and layer the paint up all the way?

How much time do you leave for the paint to dry between each layer?

 

And have you ever had any issues applying a ceramic coating over top of the touch up?

[shane@detailedreflections]

30 minutes ago, Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin said:

Shane thanks for taking the time to answer. 

I also want to say how I appreciate how much input you leave on the forums as a whole. It is very helpful.

 

Okay perfect. So do you still apply their Seal Act Blending solution after every layer to fill the scratch? Or do you just apply the paint and layer the paint up all the way?

How much time do you leave for the paint to dry between each layer?

 

And have you ever had any issues applying a ceramic coating over top of the touch up?

You’re very welcome. We still learn as we go. I will use the seal act lightly, but my intent isn’t to bring it level entirely. Polishing will do that. 
 

You could do the same process with a color match paint chip bottle from the manufacturer as well. 
 

We’ve never had an issue with waxes/coatings over the top of repairs before. 
 

As for how long it takes to cure, if you go thin with the layers and use a heat gun, it’s pretty quick. What you don’t want to do is put a big blob of paint in where the exterior is hard and the inside is soft. It’ll rip right out with polishing. 
 

We get the kits from color chip so the client has something they can use on their own. But any color match paint will do with the paint writer. 

[RayS]

As normal, Shane's information is spot on.  The weather is where it can get interesting, I do like to have the panel getting correct warm to the touch, but not hot and if the temp is 70 or so outside, you should be good.   I tend to prefer the paint pens for my ease of use, but have used multiple, even ones from the local auto parts stores and have not had any real problems. 

 

 One word of advise on curing with a heat gun - pay attention.  Ok, that was two words, but you really need to pay attention with the heat gun, you can easily bubble the clear around the area or even better, a vehicle with Xpel or similar type product.  By the time you notice an "Oops", it is too late, the damage is done.  If the correction is a on vinyl bumper cover or similar area, I won't use a heat gun on them at all. 

 

As for going to the manufacturer for the paint, if the vehicle is within 1-3 years old, that is generally were I go.  Anything that is 3 or more years old, especially with common colors and vehicles, go to one of the other vendors, your client and/or wallet will appreciate it.  However, sometimes they will surprise you, so don't hesitate to give them a call or stop by the dealer, in a couple of instances they were less than the others.