Junior

Andrew if I were you I would pretreat the spots in the shade with a mix of rinseless and water or soap and water dilution then do a strip wash with APC. You could try vinegar and water as well If that doesn’t knock the spots out, try claying them. If clay doesn’t get you there then I would try using some polish by hand lightly in one spot to see how it behaves. If all that fails you might need to break out a polisher. It will definitely diminish the coating to a degree, but one pass might get rid of the spots and allow the coating to remain. I don’t have much experience doing that so I might l

So once the coating bottle has been opened it’s only good for thirty days? I’d never heard that before but if that’s true I’m going to need to use mine this week.

Thanks Chris. I’ve been shaking the bottle up for sure. I still think I’ve been waiting too long because in one section it seems like it was 3 minutes before the rainbow effect was totally gone. I am going to try and time my next round to be sure. And I realize it does vary based on the factors you mentioned. Thanks again for the info.

Yes I think Glaze knocked it out in the places where it was more stubborn. I was just curious if I’m doing something wrong in the process mainly with regard to the time I am waiting before removing it. I was thinking I’d read or seen where you typically wait for the rainbow to diminish. Regardless I guess I can try removing it quicker, like in the first minute. Still have more sections to work on. So far, I’ve only done the hood and the trunk. Figured those panels take a pretty good amount of abuse so I wanted to get them first.

Guys I noticed some really small specs that appear to be white in color almost like the liquid hardened into small dots. Has anyone seen this before? In some places they come off with the suede towel or microfiber towel but in some places they are pretty stubborn. Could that mean I let it flash too long? I probably waited two minutes before wiping the coating off. It was basically once the rainbow effect had dissipated.

Thanks, I tried the glaze and I think it knocked them down pretty well. Question, what steps would you take if thinking of layering an additional coat past the 24 hour mark? Is it as simple as doing a coating prep step then applying?

So does Brilliant Glaze level it and then there’s no need to reapply the coating? I’m asking because I did an application yesterday and I have some high spots where it didn’t fully level out. I have Brilliant Glaze, Graphene Spray Coating, and Graphene Detail spray. Was curious if trying one of the sprays would be a better first option than using glaze. I applied the coating a little over 14 hours ago. Was thinking about doing a quick Waterless wash on the section and then trying the recommended steps.

Thanks Chris!!!

Hey guys, probably another silly question, but as I prepare to coat the hood on my vehicle, I think I’d like to check my process with you all. First off, the car has Expel Ultimate PPF installed. It was done back in Feb. and the car is garage kept. Because the PPF has no defects, my intent is to strip wash the hood and clay it then do coating prep prior to applying the Graphene Ceramic Coating. However, I have seen some posts or reviews recently stating the surface needs to be machine polished for the coating to work properly. Being the PPF doesn’t have swirls etc, I’m a little hes

Thanks Dan!

Will do sir!

Thanks Rich and Chris. I feel silly even asking the question, but I’ve never used the Graphene coating and I didn’t see shaking it called out in the instructions. So really just wanting to make sure and also know it’s a normal thing to see the dark particles in the bottom versus a uniform look. Thanks again fellas!

Adams Team, I just received a 60 ml bottle of the Graphene Coating. I noticed what seemed to be some solidified Graphene at the bottom of the bottle. It’s a black seemingly solidified portion of the chemical. I’m curious if that’s indeed what I’m seeing and if it’s essential to shake the coating prior to application. Maybe it’s the UV component I’m seeing?

So does this only apply to the Graphene version of coating and spray coating? Would you need to wipe standard ceramic spray coating after application on plastic?

Yeah that and the Invisible Undercarriage Spray get my vote. While we are on the topic, of ideas, any thought for a ceramic based glaze? I know that would be an entirely new product. Maybe Ceramic Boost sort of fills that purpose. But those of us who have been along for the ride with Adams for a while, the glaze has always been The Bomb. But it doesn’t play well with ceramic to my knowledge.