Junior

I agree CS3 is a great product in a line up that has many great standouts. I’ve been impressed with it for a couple areas that aren’t really commonly thought of and that is engine bay and door jambs. It seems to excel at bringing that wow factor or pop to both. I used it as a drying aid as well and I agree it’s great at that too and the slickness is serious. I have even used it on weathertech mats and exterior plastics to give them some dark luster and it seems to work well there too. It’s similar to Detail Spray and even Rinseless for me where I find a ton of uses for them.

@falcaineerI spoke to him on the phone sir. Thanks Mr. Chris sir!

I just want to throw some Kudos out at Christian in Adams Support. Dude was super helpful, knowledgeable and just all around great to deal with. It never ceases to amaze me how nice the folks are at Adams and how well they treat the customer. It’s why they are such a great company to buy from. The best part is the customer service. I’ve never had experiences like I have with Adams with ANY other company I have traded with. Chic Fil A is the only thing that comes close. This is probably the third or fourth time I am bragging on someone at Adams. It won’t be the last. Christian if you are out there on the Forum, THANKS FOR YOUR TIME AND EFFORT TODAY!!! YOU ROCK BRO!!!!!

Andrew if I were you I would pretreat the spots in the shade with a mix of rinseless and water or soap and water dilution then do a strip wash with APC. You could try vinegar and water as well If that doesn’t knock the spots out, try claying them. If clay doesn’t get you there then I would try using some polish by hand lightly in one spot to see how it behaves. If all that fails you might need to break out a polisher. It will definitely diminish the coating to a degree, but one pass might get rid of the spots and allow the coating to remain. I don’t have much experience doing that so I might let others chime in.

So once the coating bottle has been opened it’s only good for thirty days? I’d never heard that before but if that’s true I’m going to need to use mine this week.

Thanks Chris. I’ve been shaking the bottle up for sure. I still think I’ve been waiting too long because in one section it seems like it was 3 minutes before the rainbow effect was totally gone. I am going to try and time my next round to be sure. And I realize it does vary based on the factors you mentioned. Thanks again for the info.

Yes I think Glaze knocked it out in the places where it was more stubborn. I was just curious if I’m doing something wrong in the process mainly with regard to the time I am waiting before removing it. I was thinking I’d read or seen where you typically wait for the rainbow to diminish. Regardless I guess I can try removing it quicker, like in the first minute. Still have more sections to work on. So far, I’ve only done the hood and the trunk. Figured those panels take a pretty good amount of abuse so I wanted to get them first.

Guys I noticed some really small specs that appear to be white in color almost like the liquid hardened into small dots. Has anyone seen this before? In some places they come off with the suede towel or microfiber towel but in some places they are pretty stubborn. Could that mean I let it flash too long? I probably waited two minutes before wiping the coating off. It was basically once the rainbow effect had dissipated.

Thanks, I tried the glaze and I think it knocked them down pretty well. Question, what steps would you take if thinking of layering an additional coat past the 24 hour mark? Is it as simple as doing a coating prep step then applying?

So does Brilliant Glaze level it and then there’s no need to reapply the coating? I’m asking because I did an application yesterday and I have some high spots where it didn’t fully level out. I have Brilliant Glaze, Graphene Spray Coating, and Graphene Detail spray. Was curious if trying one of the sprays would be a better first option than using glaze. I applied the coating a little over 14 hours ago. Was thinking about doing a quick Waterless wash on the section and then trying the recommended steps.

Thanks Chris!!!

Hey guys, probably another silly question, but as I prepare to coat the hood on my vehicle, I think I’d like to check my process with you all. First off, the car has Expel Ultimate PPF installed. It was done back in Feb. and the car is garage kept. Because the PPF has no defects, my intent is to strip wash the hood and clay it then do coating prep prior to applying the Graphene Ceramic Coating. However, I have seen some posts or reviews recently stating the surface needs to be machine polished for the coating to work properly. Being the PPF doesn’t have swirls etc, I’m a little hesitant to break out the polisher. Can you guys set me straight on this? If I need to polish it I can, but just figured it wouldn’t be necessary. I guess I’m looking at polishing from the aspect of doing it to get the surface aesthetically pleasing, which it already is. But maybe the minuscule leveling effect makes the coating bond better? If so, I guess I’ll just do a one step with finishing polish and white pads. Please educate me guys! Thanks 🙏

Thanks Dan!

Will do sir!

Thanks Rich and Chris. I feel silly even asking the question, but I’ve never used the Graphene coating and I didn’t see shaking it called out in the instructions. So really just wanting to make sure and also know it’s a normal thing to see the dark particles in the bottom versus a uniform look. Thanks again fellas!