The Guz

I have never once clayed a coating and had no need to clay. Adams seems to be the only one to recommend it. There is always that risk of marring especially on soft paints. A chemical decon and 3 pH wash always works for me to keep a coating performing strong.

Yes. Any coating is hard to see on white.

You are letting it sit too long before wiping it off. If you don't see the rainbow the attribute to look for is a sweating effect. It too is not as easy to notice that attribute. The other tip I could give you is to take your finer and swipe the section lately. If your finger easily moves the coating around it is not ready. If your finger mark does not move the coating around it it ready to be wiped off. I would recommend to use something like a couple edlegess 300 towels or even one edgeless 300 and one edgeless 365 rather than the suede towel and the plush towel. I use towels from TRC. If the spray coating did not remove the high spots then the actual coating has sat too long for that to work Same goes for using the coating again. Both of these need to be applied rather quickly before the coating cures. Not the next day as this will require polishing. Menzerna polishes are too oily and I would not recommend them when using any coating.

Use it for yearly maintenance after a decon wash.

A light polish will definitely remove it.

Compounding and polishing will not remove orange peel. Wet sanding will but this is not a task for someone who is starting to learn. There are plenty of videos on new car preps. It is a good idea to use an iron remover to ensure that there is no fallout on the paint. You can judge from there if you need to clay. The car may be new but how long was it on the lot and also that it was in transit to the lot. As far as compounding and polishing, do a test spot with the polish and see if the finish is what you want. If it is then no need to compound.

There are other ways to get DI washing. You also have the option to use a blower to remove a majority of the water or to use a drying aid (detail spray, etc..). Or perhaps even rinseless washing.

right click save and then print.

That will work just fine. I have done this with blue and then graphene with no issues.

Can't see your photos and I am not downloading a zip. But if you can only see the applicator marks using the UV then that is a non-issue. It will go away as the coating cures. Now if you are seeing streaking aka high spots without the light then those need to be addressed.

Sounds like it is time for a chemical decon. Try adding an iron remover step. Depending on which area of So Cal you are in, you could bring it by for me to check out the issue you are experiencing.

White is hard to get that glossy look. Polish it and apply the coating. No need to mix brands of coatings. One or the other.

Can be used on coatings.

Slick & Slide.

Wipe it off with some graphene detail spray or it will spot if it is sprinkler water.

Polish it off.

Try a test spot with a polish and polishing pad. This is single stage paint that has oxidized over the years which is why it is pink.

With current drought conditions across the states and other countries, rinseless washing will become a more regular routine that traditional bucket washing. It is a perfect solution for those that don't have access to water such as an apartment complex. It has been years since I used the Adams Rinseless Wash and after using it again it certainly is a good product in comparison to other products on the market. The only thing that I don't recall is it separating and having this brown look to it. Not sure what that is about. Another experiment is using Foam + Wash as a pre-soak and using it with the rinseless wash as sort of a hybrid rinseless wash. https://adamspolishes.com/products/adam-s-rinseless-car-wash https://adamspolishes.com/products/adams-foam-wash https://adamspolishes.com/products/adams-cs3

Coatings are not slick by nature. But you should have noticed some slickness on initial wipe off as you are leveling the coating. It won't be super slick but slick enough to tell the coating is on the surface. Gel Coat is a bit more porous is another thing to keep in mind.

I like both products and I find they both work well as a drying aid on a coated vehicle. Hard to not enjoy CS3 though.

It can be used but be sure to wipe it off to avoid any trim turning white. And it works fine on glass.

My recommendation would be to stick with a trim restorer and apply it more often for trim that needs to be restored. Coating trim that needs trim restoration locks it out form potential restoration down the road. I would actually recommend a non-adams product for trim restoration.

It will work. Consider CS3.

How did you apply it? The coating is still there. The hydrophobic layer has been diminished.

Not within the Adams line up.