Methodical

Nope. Fresh start for me. I put too much time into getting it shiny and swirl free. I have a Toyota Sequoia and this is a little bit more work than those little sporty cars, but that wouldn't matter either way - fresh water and soap every time.

I typically use the master blaster to dry the vehicle and then some of Adams detail spray with a waffle weave and then an edgeless towel for the final buffing.

If I can't do a proper wash, I don't wash. If there's a heavy build up of dirt, I don't even think about a waterless wash. During the winter, I typically go through a touchless carwash, especially if we get snow, to knock off the heavy road salt and grime - no wipe down, just soap, rinse and blown dry. This does a pretty decent job until a warm day to do a proper 2 bucket wash. Since I usually polish and protect my vehicle just before winter, the touchless wash is ok until I can do proper wash.

Nice write up. One thing. You should start from the sunny side of the vehicle (not shady side), so that the water doesn't dry (see step 2).

My local touchless car wash has the undercarriage spray. Granted, you don't get long spray times, but during the cold winter, it works for me. As a matter of fact, I run my vehicle through the touchless was to knock off salt and road grime during the winter months as there are not many days to get a proper wash in. This would be good in warmer months though.

I purchased a new truck in 2013 and wanted to spiff it up. Did some googling and came across Adam's website. I placed my order for the PC kit with polishes and some rags. Ironically, the shipment didn't make it to me. I got an email or text stating my order had been delivered, so I called my son to get the package, literally within minutes of getting the message. My son told me there was no package, but that he saw the Fedex truck pull off. To make a long story short, I am 100% positive the Fedex guy stole the package. My weekend polishing party was a no go. I called Adams and told them the story and they immediately shipped a new order, so I was in business for the following weekend. That's my story.

Five gallons of the detail spray or at least one gallon. I love this stuff, plus it smells good. I caught it on sale a couple years back, plus I think I got a free gallon with an order at some point. So, I'm good for awhile. I use it on the paint, glass, wheels, headlights etc.

I use waffle weave towels, but to be honest regular 'ole cotton T shirts work best for me. I just restock some new T shirts and used the old ones to do some dirty work around the vehicle. They work well for glass. I just did a top down detail of my big 'ole truck and like posted above, I clayed the glass along with the vehicle, clean with glass cleaner and then went back over it with Adams detail spray. The detail spray gives it some slickness to bead rain and it seems to keep the glass cleaner in between cleanings. I use little cleaner which I found to best than flooding the towel with cleaner then flip the towel (T shirt) and dry/buff immediately.

So, Adam does this mean you will be offering some of the old items that were removed because they were not USA made?

I wondered when Adam would do this, because as he stated it's getting harder and harder to find certain products that's US made. If businesses want to survive these days, they will have to swallow some of their pride and offer non-USA made products. It's just the world we are in today. Do what you gotta do to survive; legally that is. Just don't mess with the Detail Spray. Please, please do not state US made, when if fact the product was made in another country, but assembled in the US, that would be deceptive. Al

I used some vinegar this weekend when I cleaned my towels. I don't know if it was enough, but I used about 4 oz in a small load. No vinegar smell or adverse reaction.

I use sealant as my base protection no matter what and then maybe add glaze and wax, but not all the time. Sealant all the time, no matter where it's kept. It's just not much work to apply sealant.

I only use my machines to apply polishes, wax, glaze and sealants. Personally, I am not doing this stuff by hand anymore; it's just more efficient to use the machine to apply to vehicle with a large finishing pad. Maybe I'd consider it if I were doing a small car, but the Sequoia - no way. Just One Man's Opinion

What concerns me with using the fabric softener dispenser is that there could be fabric softener or bleach remnants there from previous wash cycles. What's your thought on that?

I guess it depends on how you look at it. You can apply it in a matter of minutes - 61 minutes I still have quite a bit of the old Machine Sealant and actually really like it; it provides nice protection to my DD. As a matter of fact, I just ordered another bottle since they are getting rid of it for $10. I won't be switching out until it's all gone. I can live with the 12-24 hour cure time because by the time I finish the truck it's late in the evening and it will just sit over night and cure, plus I don't do this for a living. I can really see the benefit for Detail Shops though. Just One Man's Opinion. Al

I can't say what's the best because I have not used all of the machines out there, but I can give my opinion on which is best on the one's I've used. I recently switch to the Rupes 21, the pads along with the 5" BP. It is noticeably well balanced and faster working than the PC 7424XP. It's night and day when it comes to less vibration, work time and smoother operation. My arms and hands agree, too. It's just a really smooth machine, especially with their pads. I debated between Rupes and the Flex (Flex being similar to Rotary polisher I have - Makita) and it was tough, but I figured what the heck try something new. I can't opine on the Cyclo since I've never used it, but my initial impression was that it looked to be too bulky to work with. When I purchased my first DA kit from Adam about a year ago, they did not sell the Cyclo - only the PC and Flex. The PC sports the 4" pads now. The Rupes is my new work horse. I can't stress the smoothness of this machine enough, just amazing. I don't have to press down on the machine like the PC, so less fatigue, if you will.

I agree with the other posters. Do it yourself. I did my first ever 5 step detail using Adams polishes and Porter Cable DA over 1 year ago. It was my 1st time really doing that thorough of a paint correction. One year later and I am using the Rupes 21 - talk about smooth. The PC now sports the 4" pads. You just need to be Methodical.

Now that's what I'm talking about.

I remember the dealership offering me fabric protection, even though the truck came with leather seats. They even offered rust protection, even though the vehicle has a warranty against rust. Go figure. Oh, it's a waste like the others already made clear.

This is good to know just in case I run into this issue. In the vault it goes.

Guess I'm just the opposite. I don't do free advertisement. Like them plain and simple.

Never thought about using it for my road bike. Welp, now I use it for my road bike, too.

Leave those 16oz bottles alone and go with at least a gallon. I use it on my '13 Sequoia and I think I may use less than that. I only use it after washing and blow drying the vehicle for that "just detailed look." I will use enough to wet the panel so there's no dry spot and risk of scratching paint. I never, ever use it for claying or anything else - too expensive for those duties. Also, I've tried other detail spray and I must say that I keep coming back to Adams Detail Spray as it leaves the car shiny and slick and it does not streak like the other's I've tried. I know it's expensive, but I like it so much that I just ordered the 5 gallon jug today (15% discount and $5 shipping). I like it that much. I now use the infinite use detail juice just for claying and other duties and Adams for after wash duties. The only thing I wish is that Adams came out with a concentrate for detail spray.

I only use it after I wash and blow dry the vehicle to get that "just detailed look." I never use it for claying or anything else - too expensive for that.

That bad, huh