dconsmack

Just used this new formula for the first time on my 2007 4Runner - 136,000 miles. It was the first time I’ve ever detailed it; I always had it washed by the local hand wash place. Strip Wash, clay mitt, One Step Polish, rewash with regular Car Shampoo, then H2O Guard And Gloss to dry. It was very, very easy to apply and remove with no streaking. This to me is much much easier than applying a traditional wax or sealant. I tried the first generation Adam’s Ceramic Paint/Trim/Wheel Coatings on my Challenger and while the initial results were excellent, it wasn’t worth the amount of work it took to prep, and the water beading stopped on the doors before the one year mark. I’d much rather apply the H2O Guard And Gloss as a drying agent every several washes. It also makes the black trim look amazing and now I don’t have to apply VRT to it anymore.

I have the first version of the Ceramic trim coating and it says it needs 24-48 hours to cure. The current version in the white bottle says it needs 1-2 hours. Has this been revised or is it because of a new formula? The reason why I ask is that I just finished correcting the paint and there’s polishing dust I’d like to rinse off. The trim coating has been on over 12 hours, stored inside, 7% humidity, 75 degrees. Would it still be too soon to wash?? Thanks.

No. The car was brand new. I even had to have the stripes on one of the panels replaced when it needed a repaint from a small scrape. I had to apply Brilliant Glaze with the Cyclo to make the new stripe piece match the original remaining pieces. The Brilliant Glaze actually removes or levels down some of the "texture" that gives the vinyl its matte finish; that's what's on the pads. When I first applied Brilliant Glaze by hand it made it blotchy. The Cyclo made it even, but it physically altered the finish. They are no longer truly matte with a subtle rough texture, they're smooth and have a satin sheen. I would recommend never using anything other than soap and water on matte vinyl stripes, and never let a polisher near it, or even rub too hard by hand. But, I can see someone liking the look it created. It looks like it's got VRT on it all the time. I've since sealed it with both Liqud Paint Sealant and Americana. Those products didn't make it any glossier after I used the Brilliant Glaze/Cyclo application.

I applied Brilliant Glaze by hand on my matte black vinyl stripes on my black Dodge Challenger R/T Classic and got the same blotchy and uneven results. The Brilliant Glaze will permanently make matte vinyl stripes darker and more of a "satin" finish. The only way I was able to even it out was to use Brilliant Glaze on the red foam pads on my Cyclo polisher. It actually made the pads black (I got the pads clean again) so the glaze is permanently changing the finish on the stripes. Now the sheen is evened out and essentially looks like there's VRT on it all the time. It looks great for what it is but now it's very difficult to see the black stripes over the black paint unless the light hits it just right. I wouldn't have done it if I knew it would permanently darken them and add a sheen, but as it is, it does look very good.

I'm assuming that's for cleaning. I'm specifically looking for protection… maybe Liquid Paint Sealant or Glass Sealant? Will those work on clear vinyl?

My friend has replaced his old BMW convertible top that had a hazed vinyl window with a new one. What is the best product to protect the clear vinyl window from the elements and hazing over? The car is a daily driver in Las Vegas, NV.

I live in Las Vegas and as much as I love Adam's products, I won't use Rinseless or Waterless Wash anymore. Nothing wrong with those products (I've used them both plenty of times) but the dust in the desert is SAND. So no matter what you do and how careful you are you'll get fine scratching without hosing off your paint first. I recommend the Foam Gun and 2 bucket wash. Rinse the car off with a hose first, then the Foam Gun, then the wash. If possible, pull the car into a garage to dry it because the smallest amount of wind will blow dust (sand) onto the paint and remaining water if you dry it outside. Finally, it's best to wash the day after it rains because the rain will dampen the dust for a couple of days.

I took my mats to the coin op after using the Cyclo and C&UC, and rinsed them with the power washer. Worked great. Took some paper towels to soak up a bit of the excess and there was zero discoloration of the paper towels. So... perfectly clean with no residue and only took a few minutes. They look brand new, and the charcoal gray DODGE embroidered logo is now back to the original light gray. I'll let them air-dry then seal them with carpet protectant.

Nope, haven't tried that. I think I'll use the upholstery cleaner/Cyclo brushes then take them to the local self car wash and rinse them off there. They have clips to hold up the mats. I'll make sure not to get too close with the power sprayer. My floor mats are black so blotting them with towels will probably take forever and I'll never know if the dirt is completely out.

I've used the Carpet & Upholstery Cleaner with my Cyclo carpet brushes on my floor mats with pretty good results. It was particularly good at getting rid of odor. However, blotting the carpet with utility towels takes forever and never seems to completely soak up all of the product/dirt, even after multiple cleanings. I was wondering if after I use the C&UC/Cyclo if it's ok to hose off the product/dirt with a power washer at my local car wash then leave to air-dry. Any problems with this? Any suggestions to get absolutely all of the residue out?

I use Liquid Paint Sealant but then put on a layer of Americana once a month or so. The Americana has filling qualities that hide imperfections very well in between paint corrections and the depth of shine really is a bit different than the sealant alone. My car is back and this combination works great.

I had this same problem. The second time I tried the dry method and made sure my towels had lots of water on them (just short of dripping). That fixed the problem and it was easy on, easy off. I bought another bottle after that. No one seems to mention this but the way it darkens the plastic trim is great and the beading on glass works as good if not better than the glass sealant.

How long to soak? An hour? Overnight?

I've been using my Fender Brush on my tires and wheel wells for a year now. I only use it with All Purpose Cleaner. Tires have Super VRT; wheel wells have Invisible Undercarriage Spray so those are the products I'm cleaning off. The bristles on the brush are filthy and can't get it clean using APC. I don't care if they're stained, but I wanna get the residue off. What works?

Nope. No tint.

I tried this for the first time the other day. I'm impressed with the results. It seems no matter how hard I try to get the glass clean with Glass Cleaner, there's always some residue visible in certain lighting conditions. And it takes two cleanings with two towels, with the second cleaning using just a few drops of Glass Cleaner to get the residue left behind from the first cleaning. Using Brilliant Glaze on the inside left zero residue in any lighting conditions. It can't get any cleaner. And it worked in one very easy application and removal. I used a Blue Microfiber Application Pad for putting the glaze on, and a Blue Microfiber towel for removal. Works great!!

I might as well show my Challenger too. 2014 R/T Classic. 2 weeks old. Plan to do a correction with the Cyclo in the fall; there were a few minor scratches from the factory. Is there a recommendation on weather to use the foam or microfiber pads for a new clear coat?

Here's some new photos taken with a better lens...