DCRANER

I have my PC for years for general polishing and waxing, etc. I also have a rotary (FLEX) when I am doing serious paint correcting or polishing after DA wet sanding new paint work. If the PC is not getting results sometimes if you want excellent results as an example you would do a DA wet sanding with 3000 grit then even maybe 5000, then rotary polish with 2 or 3 levels of polishing. In this example the wet sanding removes the scratches and the polish finishes the wet sanding. That result could then be maintained with your PC and Adams Correcting and / or Finishing polish.

Hello. On my 1964 Impala SS windshield. Has no scratches that would catch a fingernail. I clayed and then polished with cerium oxide and rotary buffer. Took about 3 hours and came out quite well, dingy gray and wiper streaks from years about 95% gone. Then cleaned with an IPA solution I made. So, squeaky clean and as very old there are more pores in the glass than new glass. But I just want to preserve the original windshield. So, I then did the Adams Glass Sealer and it brightened it up slightly more. My questions are: * Would a second application improve the sealing of the pores? * Aside from cleaning the wiper blades (NOS blades from 1964) with Adam's glass cleaner should I coat the blades with VRT or the Glass Sealer? * After application what do I clean the Adam's application pad with? Thanks. Doug

Just a note of caution to everyone. I bought the H2O G&G gallon kit some time ago, great product. Last wash I could not find my spray bottle, looked everywhere, had to fill an old bottle with a Detail Spray label, now has H2O G&G in it. I am very careful with my Adam's stuff, so obviously the Adam's products greatness has reached the outer limits. It's time to watch your stuff! The aliens took my stuff!

Ok, thanks all. I am the original poster, and I now know two things: 1. Adam's has no spray wax. 2. My head hurts!

Yes, my understanding was the old version of Detail Spray had no protection, that the new version does some sort of "boost" to an existing wax application. So, that is why I asked about a true spray wax product.

I thought Detail Spray had no protection components.

Maybe I am missing something. But, do we have a spray wax? I'm thinking how great Detail Spray is, but no protection. H2OGG is great but is for after a wash. LPS is great but is machine work & time. So, I would love a spray wax. Thinking about my motorcycle and classic car, it would be nice to take a clean vehicle / bike and hit it with a spray wax. Thinking also chrome wheels, etc. Maybe a combination Detail Spray with a wax mixed in. Thanks, Doug

Finished doing the Finish Polish and Revive by hand. Came out quite good I think. Here is an outside picture of the door.

Ok, me again. Did Finishing Polish to hood, here is a picture of my garage ceiling light in the hood, slight reflection of me leaning over the hood. Ceiling light reflection is more pronounced now I think. Slightly more gloss than precious pics after claying. So, thinking to continue then do Revive, then Americana.

Thanks a lot. Here are pics of the hood and door reflection after Strip Wash and Clay. I think the Finishing Polish will come out nice. The car was wet sanded with 4000 as a final step, done about 6 years ago.

Well, I lied, a few areas have a very slight grit feel with the plastic bag, so I will clay. Then polish with just finishing polish I think? Your thoughts.

Surface smooth as silk. Thinking of just Finishing Polish to give a little more depth in color. Maybe the blue by hand also? Then Americana. Original dog dish wheels with wide ovals. So, final suggestions for polishing?

Hey all, ready to polish the Nova. Have not done more than Detail Spray and Americana over the last 4 or 5 years. Figure it's time to polish for a little better finish. I did the Strip Wash. I am wondering if I really need to clay. Hard to see from pictures but no scratches, maybe small swirl here and there. So, thinking of just doing the white pad and Finishing Polish. Then Americana. Thoughts?

Thanks Chris, and I see in your forum pic a 69 SS 396 Chevelle.....to me that is the definition of MUSCLE CAR!

Thanks again. Also I'm thinking about the chrome wire wheels, is Adams Wheel Cleaner still the best/ And as it is basically a new bike the wire wheels are in good shape, I'm more concerned with making sure they don't get grungy and have some protection on them.

Thanks. It's black so it has to be done right, but I like most here do enjoy taking the time to get it right. The whole bike is basically black & chrome. The one good thing with the Harley's is the paint and chrome quality is about as good as it gets. I usually on chrome do the #1 polish and maintain with Detail Spray. What is the advantage of Brilliant Glaze on chrome? I'll have to do some work and then post some pics. Thanks again.

Hi all, question. Just picked up a 2016 Harley black)with 938 miles, so really like new. So, figured I would clay then polish with Paint Finishing polish. As bike is small compared to a car how best to do the polish by hand? I do have a Snap On small detail size air compressor polisher with 3" pads but that may be overkill. Then after I will do Americana. Thoughts? Thanks, Doug

Thanks Chris. If the new truck comes out nice I'll do a full detail to my old beat up 68 Nova.

So, do I need Americana, or just H2OGG after a week or so after LPS. And my cover is a 5 layer with soft under lining that breathes and does not hold moister, has hold down under truck straps. Jersey winters are hard.

Ok, I'm back again, getting ready for my total detail plan for my new 2016 Silverado, below are my intended steps in order. Any thoughts on the plan or order of steps? Jersey truck, getting ready for winter, but not driven every day, have a truck cover. 1. Wash with Strip Wash. 2. Clay Bar, if needed. 3. Correcting Polish, if needed. 4. Finishing Polish. 5. Liquid Paint Sealant(body & wheels). Tape up black body plastic to avoid LPS staining. 6. Americana Wax? Truck will be outside, covered mostly, drive on some weekends. 7. H2O Guard & Gloss So, that is the plan, thoughts appreciated. Tks. Doug

Hi, I'm back again. How about using my spray washer with H2OG&G on the clean engine / metal lines / fittings, etc., would that be good to add a little protection to the engine aluminum and other under hood metal lines, etc.

So, I have a 2016 Silverado, want to spray something on to keep the engine aluminum and related fittings from getting corrosion. Any thoughts?

Yes, I think I am on to what may be needed. In Colorado of course, mountains & fresh air. Along with all the Adam's stuff over recent years, then Strip Wash & H2O Guard just received, now I get a message about Wash & Wax! The sight of the Adam's logo on fresh bottles, the aroma, and the thought of what could show up next, well, it just may overcome even the best of us. So Adam, nothing fancy, a little bed near a window for seeing the mountains, maybe a few snacks, and something to slowly wean us off the aroma & videos, then we can recover to detail another day. Of course we will pay for the rehab, in fact I'm going to call my insurance company to see if Detail / Waxing Rehab is covered. Just a suggestion. Thanks for listening.

Well, I started this topic and did order the Strip Wash last night. Will give it a try as all other Adams products have worked quite well. New Silverado does not have scratches but tons of swirls, looks like just lots of grunge built up. So instead of Dawn I'll try the Strip Wash. Plan: Strip Wash, Clay, Correcting polish (may not need Finishing polish), LPS, then after some cure time, H2O Guard & Gloss. LPS and H2O the chrome wheels also. Truck will be outside, not used daily, although I do have a truck cover for it. Looking for protection more than a show finish. Thanks to all. Doug

Thanks. I should have been more specific, plan is to: Strip, clay, polish, LPS, then H20 Guard & Gloss. Jersey winter can be bad. I asked about the new Strip Wash wondering if that was better than the old method I use which is Dawn. Thanks. Doug