dyn0mitemat

My small bottle of ceramic boost that came in my kit is like that as well, and it started leaking out all over too. I like the smaller size, but not a fan of the nozzles

I do have it and use it on other vehicles, but haven't tried it on the coated STi yet. I figure if the minimal amount of wax in detail spray will lessen the water shedding of the coating I would want to steer clear of h2o g&g. I do love it on other cars though, I pretty much use that exclusively for protection on my jeep and friends cars when they bring them by now.

So here's another one, I miss using detail spray as a drying aid (and to touch up here and there). Would the new Matte Detailer work better for ceramic coated vehicles? I assume it doesn't have any wax in it so I figure it might be better to use than the normal Detail spray.

Thanks guys, I'll give that a try Rich. Didn't seem to make any difference claying. The roof passed the plastic bag test, I clayed anyway, and then still had same problem with 2 single soft's and a double soft. I have some other brand towels here I decided to give a try (they're a microfiber waffle weave pluffle) and they seem normal so I'm pretty sure its these towels or my washing technique. Would me having hard water have any irregular effects on washing? I have a water softener system that filters most of the stuff out of the water for me, I'm wondering if that has anything to do with the towels doing this.

I'll give it a shot. I just corrected (orange and then white compounds/pads) and ceramic coated the car all of a few weeks ago, Just washed it and noticed this when I went to dry and wipe the glass down. I'll clay a few panels and see where it gets me.

Hey guys, I've have a nice collection of adam's microfibers, and they've been good to me over the last few years. Slowly I've noticed most of my towels would start 'sticking' , if thats the right word for it, to the paint. Say you take a single soft mf and put the weight of your hand on it, mist a panel with detail spray, and the towel wants to stick and jerk and not slide nicely over it. You have to actually 'pull' the towel across the surfaces as if it were a squeege almost, and if you get it in the light right you'll see tiny bits of lint or fibers left behind. I've had this happen with almost all of my towels now over the past year. I always washed them with the free & gentle liquid detergent on warm (as was prev. recommended) and have picked up a bottle of adams mf rejuvenator that I've slowly been switching to as well (I'll go back to the other one if I'm out of adams rejuv). I always dry on cool or hang dry if its a nicer day. I started noticing this last summer, and after some reading I thought it was wax or polishing compound building up in everything causing this. So I tried adding vinegar to the wash cycle a few times, didn't seem to make any difference. I then tried soaking 5-10 towels in boiling water, and it didn't seem to help those towels either, maybe I just did it wrong, not sure. So I assumed the towels were just getting old, and started buying new ones. My oldest adam's towels are probably 3-4 years old, and I'd assume washed maybe 30 times or so. So I thought everything was fine and dandy, just had old towels that needed replaced. But what really got me thinking something in my routine is off, is I just picked up 5 of the new glass towels ( These ) just a month or so ago, and I've washed them maybe 3-4 times and they're starting to do the same thing. I'm at a loss here guys, any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks -Mat

I'm really impressed with the coating so far. It's really easy to keep clean, and now a quick 2 bucket wash makes the car look like I spent all day detailing it. So I read that it is ok to use the wash & wax on top of the coating? I don't have to worry about the wax in it degrading the water shedding properties? And I'll be honest, the ceramic boost I'm not a fan of using. It seems to work well, but applying it is a real streaky mess no matter how lightly you most it on.

Can I use a claybar on my coating? I finished it up last week, but this morning after some rain last night there's some water spots I cannot wipe off. Clay bar takes them off (I tested on a small spot), is it safe for the coating to Clay? Or will I need to reapply in those areas?

Good to know about shelf life, thanks for the info. The vinyl I was going to use is flat (as in no texture like the em di-noc) and glossy so added gloss won't hurt And I've been using the glass sealant like directions on the bottle and videos say, it definitely isn't completely gone after a day off driving in the rain, but first day out there rain literally flies off the windows faster than using wipers. Although it still beads water off, performance is severely degraded after driving a day or two in the rain though. I assume this is why the bottle says it only lasts 200 miles of driving, hence why I was looking for something a bit more permanent. Thanks for the advice

How long after a full application to a car will the remaining coating in the bottle be good for? Is expecting a few months pushing expectations? I just ordered a kit and would like to put it in next weekend, but here in a few months I was planning on getting a new front bumper for the car (this one's got a little crack at the bottom), but it be 2-3 months before I get money to do that. I just wanted to make sure I still could use the leftover coating at that time on the new bumper or if I'd have to buy more. Also, I plan on doing a vinyl roof wrap here shortly (probably hexxis gloss carbon fiber), should I not coat the roof then so the wrap sucks better? And I know a few people mentioned applying it on top of vinyl stripe, I assume it would be ok to apply on top of the vinyl wrap as well correct? Lastly, is there anything coming out like this for glass? I use Adams glass sealant but it never seems to last more than driving through one rainy day, an and I have to reapply afterwards too get the water beading off nicely at speed, it'd be nice to have something more semi permanent like the ceramic where I could apply once a year or something

I was just at summit racing (Ohio) a little over a week ago and they still have probably 15-20 sitting on the shelf

For the plastic trim mix boiled linseed oil and isopropyl alcohol 50/50 and wipe it on a few times. I've used this trick on my 98 ZJ (grand Cherokee) and my 96 XJ since they have alot of black plastic on them that likes to fade, as well as my 09 JK I had. Works wonders And I've had great luck with monstaliner as far as doing jeep tubs, there's a 500+ page on jeepforum with people raving about it

Nope its even easier than that! Just use rinseless drenched towel and wipe a panel down like normal. Then instead of drying, give it a spray of h20gg, then use a seperate h20 dedicated towel to spread it around. THEN dry. Done! edit: And congrats to the above! And I remember my first time rinseless wash. After doing it a few times you'll figure out a groove and what works, what you can get away with etc. For example, if the car is pretty clean on top, I know I can get away with 2-3 passes/swipes on the roof with one side of the towel (and this subi's got paint so soft it swirls if you look at it). And as long as its wet (this is where rinseless/waterless in a spray bottle helps), you can hit all the glass without worrying about swirls, so I usually dont flip the towel over too often on that either.

Since the rinseless wash came out I've washed my car with the 2 bucket method like 3-4 times (And I try to get a wash in at least once a week). If the car's pretty clean and just needs a quick spray off of light dirt or what not, I just use rinseless without a problem. If its pretty mucked up, I'll run down the street power wash station, and just use the rinse cycle (no chemicals in rinse mode) and blast off what I can with their heated water, then just use the spot free rinse (which I've confirmed with the owner is just deionized water) and give it a quick spray. Most of the time if I drive around for 5 minutes or so at 50+ it'll be enough to completely dry the car, and if you keep up on sealants or h20gg it'll probably get most of the dirt off just spraying it off and you may not need to do any more. If I want a bit more I'll then take it home, do a quick rinseless wash, and then you can add sealant in one step with the h20gg right before you dry the car when your washing it and be done with a quick rinse/wash/seal/dry in like 40 minutes. Best part about rinseless though, which is what I love most about it (a close second to being able to do it in a closed garage with heated water in like 30-40 minutes start to finish), is having hard well water, I just about completely cut out water spots I was getting down to zero, with no effort

I just have a cloth bag (think pillowcase) hanging off the end of my one detailing cart, I just toss my towels in there, when its full its about a full load in the washer