53flattie

For the benefit of future readers - I received and applied the Ceramic Coating Kit. All I can say is "wow!". I was completely shocked at how simple it was to apply and how much shine it brought out of a very tired paint job. When it went on, it honestly looked like I was wiping the paint with petroleum jelly (not the consistency, but in the shine). It looked like glass. It's VERY easy to apply and very easy to buff out. The whole vehicle only took about 20 minutes to do - granted, there's not a whole lot of painted surface on a Wrangler... By no means is the finish 'show quality', but that's because it's a 175K mile vehicle with many imperfections. But I think it absolutely looks as good as it possibly can. A friend walked by it in the garage the other day and asked if I had it repainted. 😊

I applied Buttery Wax to my double-cab Tundra a few years ago. It took forever - mostly because there’s about 3 acres of sheet metal on that truck. I was very pleased with the results. If the ceramic spray is just as good as that (and it sounds like it might be even better) I’m totally sold. $100 is a bargain to keep from spending that much time with a hex applicator in my hand. I’m going to order the ceramic kit tomorrow when the Black Friday deal goes live.

So the ceramic spray is as good as hand-applied wax? I certainly hope so, because waxing is quite time-consuming. I would LOVE a product that could replace that process. Last question, I hope... Is there a point of diminishing returns on the correcting compound? As in, will doing more and more passes continue to remove scratches? Or am I thinking more about the “buffing” process where you warm the clear coat enough to flow back together? No need for me to waste time going over and over if it’s not going to help...

This statement clarified so much for me. Thank you! It looks like the ceramic kit has the IPA prep, sealant, booster, and towels - all in one convenient bundle. Would you guys recommend that?

I had no idea what “IPA” meant (other than India Pale Ale) until I googled it. Sounds like it strips and cleans the surface. Please forgive my ignorance, but would that not remove all the work I just did? Or am I confusing “paint correction/polishing” with waxing? In that polishing simply smooths the surface whereas waxing leaves a product on the surface? So wiping with IPA, at this point, would simply remove the leftover correcting compound from the scratches and prepare the surface for a wax coating. Thank you guys for your patience and answers!

Ray - thanks so much for the detailed response. Your vehicles look amazing! In my case, this Wrangler is a high-mileage vehicle with plenty of scratches. I understand that even a Swirl Killer isn’t a magic wand. It can only do so much. I’m fine with that because this is a secondary (fun) vehicle that will get driven off-road. I just want to make it look as good as is reasonably possible. That said, I worked the hood using the techniques outlined here, and used much less product. It was much easier to remove the residue this time, and took less time overall. I think I was using too many steps on the doors, for no additional benefit. I’m very happy with the finish and shine on the hood, but now I have a new problem... The correcting compound has “settled” into the scratches, swirls, and imperfections and basically accentuated them even more. I have had this happen in the past, with hand-polishing, so I know it will dissipate as time passes. But I’m curious if there’s a method for dealing with this issue? Before and after.

Ray - I’m just outside of Greenville, towards Clemson. Thanks so much for the generous offer, but I’ll probably just order some from Adams. I did the doors today - since I could remove them and lay them flat. I figured they would be a good place to start. I’m really impressed with the Swirl Killer. It’s a really nice machine. The soft-start is a cool feature. And I’m really happy with the results (before and after pics below). However, I think I’m doing something a little wrong. In watching the videos of Adam using the machine, it looks like when he finishes, the surface is pretty much done. I’m having to use detail spray and a microfiber towel (and a fair amount of elbow grease) to get all the residue off. Here’s the process I used, tell me if I’m doing something wrong: MF pad, three dots of HCC, light mist of detail spray. I’ll do two runs of that. Then I’ll switch to the orange foam pad, three dots of correcting compound, light mist of detail spray. Two runs of that. (When I say “runs”, I mean - until the material breaks down to a sort of oil, then looks dry. I’ll add three more dots of material and another mist of detail spray.). Then I’ll switch to the white pad, three dots of correcting compound, light mist of detail spray. One run of that. I’ll then mist the pad and go over it again, twice. When that’s done, it’s pretty close to finished, but it does require a MF towel and detail spray to get everything totally clean. Am I using too little material? Too much? Should I do the detail spray every time I add material? Is the final “buffing” just necessary, but it’s edited out of the videos? If so, that’s fine with me - I just want to be sure I’m not doing it wrong...

My order arrived and I’m excited to get started this weekend. I have a bottle of buttery wax that I’ve had for almost 4 years. I brought it inside, from the garage, to let it come up to room temperature. Problem is - it appears to have turned to liquid. Like, water. Is that something that happens over time? I assume it can’t be used like that? My intent was to start with the heavy correcting compound on the microfiber pad, then on the orange pad, and finish with the white pad and the buttery wax. If the buttery wax can’t be used, can I just finish with the correcting polish and the white pad? Or do I *need* to finish with wax?

Well, the 15% off email campaign came at just the right time yesterday... 😁 Thanks for all the advice. I went with the full sized swirl killer, rather than the mini. I already have some correcting compound and buttery wax - that’s why you only see the heavy correcting compound.

Thanks so much for all the suggestions! Which is more aggressive - the microfiber or blue foam pad? Lastly, I’m strongly considering the mini polisher, given all the small surfaces on the Wrangler. Does that change the product/process suggestions any?

I recently purchased a 2004 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon. It appears the previous owner washed it with a mud-soaked rag... 🙄 I’ve been wanting to get a polisher for quite a while, and I think now is the time. My question is - which polish (or combination of polishes) do I need for scratches in the clear coat, but not deep enough to catch a fingernail (see photos below). I already have some buttery wax and correcting polish. Thanks!

Thanks for the suggestion. Just for clarification - would I use the W&W in place of the G&G? Or are you suggesting that I use the W&W, then the G&G afterwards?

I have a travel trailer that is parked outside (won't fit in garage) so it is exposed to the elements. It is new (2015) so it looks great, no fading, no stickers peeling, etc. I would like to keep it that way... It appears, from reading RV forums, that lots of folks use Aerospace 303 Protectant. But, it sounds like it's a chore to apply. I LOVE the H20 G&G for it's results and ease of application. Would it serve as a reasonable protectant to the exterior of a travel trailer? It's bonded fiberglass (not metal) with vinyl stickers. Thanks so much! Tim

Thanks so much for the responses. One more question - what is "MFR" that was referred to as a good cleaner for the pads?

I have used the yellow hex-grip foam applicator for Buttery Wax only once. Do I need to wash it / clean it before using it a second time? From what I'm reading here, it sounds like its okay to use them a few times before cleaning. (the pad looks basically just like it did when it was brand new - no dirt or discoloration on it) Thanks!

I can't figure out how to rotate the second and third pictures. Moderator - if you can do it, please feel free. Thanks!

It took two afternoons, but I finished the process and I couldn't be happier with the results. Started by washing it yesterday afternoon, followed by the H2O G&G, which is really easy to apply. It's a cool product - I had watched the videos, but until you use it, it's hard to understand exactly how it works. You can spray it on a panel covered in water and it almost instantly makes the water run off. You come back with your dry double-soft towel and the panel will be dry as a bone. Amazing. My double-cab Tundra has about 2 acres of sheetmetal and one towel was enough to completely dry it (plus the one I was using to apply the G&G). Today I went back and applied the Buttery Wax. I followed the instructions provided in the video, using the Hex Grip applicator, and it was very easy. Took about an hour to do the whole truck, one panel at a time. It was really easy to remove with the microfiber towel - just a quick buffing action and it was all gone. It worked great on the chrome grill surround - made it like a mirror. First is a before shot (after the G&G, before the wax) (please don't mind the cluttered garage - it's all I can do to get the truck in there!) Second shot is the front half after the wax, from the same vantage point as the first (albeit with the other garage door open, so there's more light). Last is a side shot showing the clarity and depth of the finish.

Thanks Matt!

My order arrived today - H2O G&G, Buttery Wax, yellow applicator, microfiber towel, and two double-soft towels. My question is - can I use the G&G and Buttery wax on all surfaces? I.e. Glass, lights, rubber, plastic, chrome, etc?