1911A1

If you want it shiny you can use progressively finer abrasives and go as far as you like.Or scuff with a scotchbrite pad to get a satin finish.Another easy way to get a cool finish on metal is to use a rotating pad of some sort,the scotchbrite you mentioned would work well.With the disk spinning touch the piece in about 50% overlapping spots until you cover the whole piece.You can go in even rows or just randomly.gives sort of a spot finish.Try whatever you decide on an area on the back first to see if you like it.Be careful around the fine details with a machine that it doesn't catch and bend a piece. Have fun

If you have some brilliant glaze try some on a microfiber towel on a small area and see if that removes it.Unless you had rocks or diamonds in your clay It would be unlikely you would harm glass with clay.

Goo gone and Rapid Remover will both work well.I use Rapid Remover quite a bit at work to remove Vinyl graphics.It is citrus based while the goo gone is a petroleum or solvent base.Neither one will hurt your paint.If there is some double sided tape left after removing the badge try getting a hold of it and gently stretching it while slightly lifting it at the same time .Sometimes it will come off cleanly with very little residue left behind.

Sounds like my neighborhood!

Managed to polish and seal one side of my cab and a fender.And did some Lichtenberg fractal wood burning.

50/50 works great gets all the nooks and crannies

Sorry I didn't realize you were getting ready to re-seal. Not necessarily as I haven't tried the strip wash on a dirty finish.When I used it I washed first then washed again with the strip wash on a panel at a time since I only have time to polish a panel or two at a time.Someone else will probably chime in soon that has more experience with it than I do.

The strip wash isn't really for general cleaning.It's made to strip all the wax,sealant or other protection off your paint before doing a full detail and adding new protection to your finish.As you noticed it took all protection off your plastics.Try the regular car shampoo for regular washing.. When I use the strip wash I wash first with the regular soap to clean then use the strip wash to remove the protection before claying and polishing.Others may have better advise

Guard and gloss is your best friend here. Something else that helped me lately is brilliant glaze.After washing I had dried soap film and water spots all over my truck that detail spray or dilluted rinseless would not touch.The brilliant glaze cleaned it right up with no effort at all.

Dawn dish soap,walmart sponge and dry with bath towels!I don't think microfiber towels even existed then. Hurts just thinking about it.

I sacrificed a microfiber pad to do some metal polishing seemed to work good also

Looks like it ate something solid,ouch $$

Nick Tahou's ?

Ha, my dog tries to lick the tire shine I have to keep an eye on him when I use it.

Thanks Rich,wanted to do it for the last year but the color change on the plastics held me back.Did some research and talked to my paint supplier and decided to just do it.Very happy with the result.

Love the leather conditioner,smells awesome.Also got to vacuum every inch of carpet with no seats in the way.

They're Katzkins,I love 'em They are much nicer than the factory leather in my brothers new silverado.

I've hated the gray cloth upholstery in my truck since I bought it so today I replaced it with beautiful black leather.changed all the trim pieces and seat belt buckles to black

I shot pistol in competition at the national level for a long time,hold a classification of high master also hunt with handgun,bow and muzzle loader 3 1911 ,45s (explains my screen name)I built two of them,one on a Caspian frame and one on a Les Baer frame(my main competition guns) S&W mod, 41 .22 S&W 422 Ruger single six .22 Ruger GP100 .357 Super Redhawk .44 mag Thompson Contender .35 Rem & .223 barrels 4 shotguns including a nice browning pump and my mossberg 31/2" mag turkey gun a few rifles including an old Marlin 30-30 and a sweet little browning 22 and my muzzle loader All I can think of right now lol

Paint sealant and guard and gloss on black works great

Guilty as well but also forgot my wash bucket was sitting behind the truck at the same time,until it popped out from under my front bumper.At least the grit guard survived,

If I was applying the stipes I would say put them directly to bare paint.No sealant,coating or film.If you like the paint protection film have it re applied after applying the stipes.If you put the stripes over the film it would not look right at the transition and it would be a potential point where moisture and dirt could get under the edge eventually.A ceramic could then be applied over everything if you like.

Be careful the color on these trailer panels is applied when the sheets are made.It's usually a VERY thin polyester paint.I tried to improve some scratches on a friends fifth wheel that had some tree branches dragged down the side.Using correcting polish and a microfiber towel by hand I could visibly see the color getting thinner.We use a lot of aluminum sheet in different colors at work that has a similar finish.It looks nice but it's really thin.I would try some revive if you have some but use caution. Good luck

With LED's 5-6K is generally considered daylight as you get into the 7K and above you start to get into a more blue light,below 4500 it gets more yellow.

If that doesn't work post it here and Chris will fix it for you. http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/30547-how-to-put-a-picture-on-your-profile-settings/