slalom38

I’d love strip wash in a gallon!! 10 hands up!

Nope

I'm working on a metallic black Porsche. I've got some minor scratches on the hood that refuse to be polished out. The he most aggressive I've gotten is orange correcting polish with an orange foam pad with the SK set to 5. So do I go Microfiber pad with correcting polish or do I go to the next more aggressive polish and foam pad? I'm a novice at machine polishing so I'm a bit "clear coat" timid. Any direction will be much appreciated.

I'm working on a metallic black relatively new car. It has some surface scratches that aren't deep enough to catch my nail on, but I can't polish them out using the orange pad with a SK and adams correcting polish. I'm reluctant to go more aggressive on the polish, but would a microfiber pad on the SK give me just a bit more cut?

I've got a ski boat with black hull trim around the top of the boat hull. It has 10 years of water staining. I intend to use the SK with correcting polish and an orange pad. Then I'll finish it off with white pad/finishing polish. Is this ok for gel coat?

I arrived home after a 2 hour drive, and found what looked like a chemical drip stain on the driver side front fender panel. I tried a quick hit with detail spray...nothing. Then spent a sleepless 4 nights until I got back to my garage to fix the problem. Then went down the "Progressive Aggression Protocol"... 1. Revive by Hand...Nada 2. Revive with Swirl Killer...Orange Pad...Nada 3. Strip washed the area. 4. Clayed the area 5. Swirl Killer/Orange Pad/Correcting Polish... Had to go over it 3 times to get all of it gone. BUT...It's Gone! 6. SK/White Pad/Finishing Polish 7. SK/Grey Pad/Reapplied Paint Sealer where I hit the fender 8. SK/Red Pad/Glaze Outcome...Perfect=Happy Guy So, the question..What would you have done different? I really thought I saw a repainted fender in my future. I'd love to know what anyone thinks was the source of that damage. The only thing I remember possibly being the source is me running through an "under bridge" puddle when it was dry everywhere else...but I'm guessing.

How do I handle polishing around the badge area?

Where does brilliant glaze fit into this?

Not much shade in my driveway spring and summer. Anyone have a recommendation for a reasonably easy setup/breakdown canopy that won't break the bank? I'd like to stay below $300

Using Adams waffle drying towels, and plush micros for the cleaning.

NE winters suck. I took my brand new Macan (metallic black) to a touchless wash, pulled out, sprayed it down with detail spray, drying rags to dry and I got...scratches and swirl marks! Would spraying on rinseless and then wiping down have been a better way to go? I see a weekend correction, seal, glaze and wax in my future. But, I'd still like to know the best way to avoid the cruelty of winter..

I just layed down a coat of buttery wax by hand. It's very easy, but also easy to be inconsistent. I'm thinking I'm going to lay down a 2nd coat using the SK (which I just got, but haven't used yet) using a grey pad on the SK. I'm hoping it will provide a more even application,and probably end up using less wax. Yes, no,maybe?

I just received the SK. I'm not going to be dong anything for a few weeks, but I will say that the overall feeling of quality is undeniable. It has a high quality "heft " to it, and feels and appears to be very well made. Can't wait to rip into a correction. It's been a tough winter, and I had my car under a brightly lit gas station canopy the other night, and was horrified by the "dirt rub" swirls and scratches. Bummed me out.

Though the car is relatively new, it's been a tough winter. Quite a few times, after a "wet" drive, I've sprayed it down with Detail spray then dried it off with several plush micro towels. As careful as I am, I still see some surface scratching. Living in New York city and in a parking garage, a full wash isn't an option, and I won't let the garage do it for obvious reasons.

Wash, clay, wash,correct, finishing polish,sealer, Americana wax, glaze...all using the SK except for the wax. Here's the questions... 1. Is this overkill? Can any steps be eliminated? It's a 2016 Porsche Macan Metallic Black DD. Garaged 2. Is this the correct order? 3. I've seen some video where a quick spritz of detailed on the SK pad is recommended each time I put product on the pad...yes, no, all products or just some? 4. Will the glaze still do its magic when layered like this? The next 3-4 washes are... Wash, dry with H2OG&G, Glaze Next wash...same as above but wax before glaze Is this a solid "Keep it looking awesome" plan?

Since the car post wash is not entirely dry, I spray the car with detail spray then use a drying towel. I figure I get through the winter, then come spring, I do a strip wash, correction, seal, glaze and wax. Sound like a plan?

Once I apply a sealeant,will a "touchless" high pressure car wash remove the protection of a seal?

If I'm layering, starting with a sealant, and then go with a glaze, then a wax, will using the SK compromise, enhance or have no effect on the durability of the sealants protective performance FS vs. hand application of 1 or more of the products? Also...glaze then wax, or wax then glaze? I'm assuming that using the sk for application will give the best result in terms of shine and be more efficient in terms of consistency of the amount of product being applied. Am I on track or confused?

So I'm down to deciding between the Rupes and the SK. The polisher will only be used 5-6 times a year, for correcting and some LPS applications. Is the extra money for the Rupes a good investment, or total overkill for the usage? I want a durable machine, and the "China" origin has me a bit spooked. Adams has such a good reputation on their product quality that I tend to believe they wouldn't ship a substandard product in terms of durability, but I want to be sure. For any of you that have used both, is there a tangible difference in the"feel" of the 2? Thanks for the feedback.

The SK's effectiveness as a polisher is established. Can it be used for other applications as well? Waxing, buffing, etc. And if so, what are the appropriate applicators and products?

I read a lot about hard vs. soft clear Coat? How do I know what my car is? 2016 metallic black Porsche Macan.