SlammedRT

It wont react well. Its a version of 476 which is basically a sealant. Sealants and coatings don't mix well....

its an interesting price point, depending on the longevity of the bottle its probably worth paying the extra $30 to just get the 50ml bottle. Stand alone vs stand alone. Be interested to find out how well this would prolong their paint coating when used as a topper. Wondering if you topped a coating with this every 6 months if you would extend the life dramatically

Anyone heard anything on application surfaces? I am curious as to whether you will be able to apply it basically everywhere like G&G or if it will be closer to a professional coating as far as what it can be applied to. Since its sprayable I am assuming closer to anything save glass.

And to that point it would be great if Adams would publish their test along with other companies for comparison but there is a 0% chance of that unless someone thinks they are far and away better

Just an FYI there is tangiblity to the 9H rating though its not apples to apples bc there is no standard to the weight you must put on the pencil to claim 9H. So different companies will scew their test to claim 9H. What it becomes is inapplicable. Will it protect against scratches better than a 7H? Most likely but not absolutely. Better than 5H? I would say almost 100% but I’m not a test expert by any means and don’t know how much you can scew the results. In any case the scratches you will prevent are basically equivalent across the board. It will protect from wash swirls and similar types and nothing more.

Cars look great! Maybe I am misinterpreting but PS needs to go down first to bare paint then glaze. I hope that is what you did? PS won't last near as long if not.

Goo Gone is sold everywhere

Depends really on what kind of bugs you think you will see but spraying PAM (yes the cooking non stick oil) on the front drastically reduces bugs ability to stick. That is mostly a love bug situation thing but works for any bug. Just depends on what and the amount. Just normal highway bugs I would stick with only WW.

I have a brand new bottle of buttery wax if you want to trade for the leather conditioner?

I have a brand new bottle of buttery wax if you want to swap that VRT?

^^^ Should have mentioned I have a base of paint sealant down first as well. If no paint sealant it may be best to use HGG first then wax following week.

This is great! But if I recall what members were wanting was a flow chart of different products use with different LSP. So almost to follow this something along the lines where Coating is the start point and how you can use ceramic boost, CPW, what shampoos are most useful and maybe tips with what to avoid. Same for the wax side of things. Really like this. Gets back to the simplicity Adams has always strived for.

You will get varying responses here. Its really personal preference. I like to wax (1-2 months protection) on first wash only. Then on next wash (usually following week) I use HGG as I feel I am locking in the wax qualities for a bit longer. Of course the weather and amount of driving it will see has an effect too.

We use to use this. It works very well. This is just one example. Plenty out there using powder and felt pad. If necessary and not just for one parade it is well worth the money. https://www.eastwood.com/pro-glass-polishing-kit.html

Just FYI, my wishlist still works fine. But I do use it on a laptop. Maybe only an issue on mobile devices.

You need wheel acid if wheel cleaner wont work. But talk about choke you....you will need a mask. Stuff works wonders on wheels though.

Without water application? What am I missing here?

Its based on the product (Langka) you use. I have seen some say as little as 48 hours and others to wait at least a week for polishing/sealing. If it were me, I would decon and correct then use coating prep before the Langka. I would then wait until the following weekend to seal.

I have a basically full bottle of buttery. I used it once but wasn't thrilled. Looking to trade for a VRT.

I wouldn't use any wheel cleaner but you can test the Eco. Spray the smallest amount possible in an easy area to polish (flat spot) and if it starts to foam up rinse away immediately. It is stripping the polish (can polish back out). If it does not foam up you are good to go. If you are polishing I would skip it though. Polish will get them the cleanest. I would just use soap and water before. Use to have a set of those on a 454SS Silverado. Had them super shinny at one point but took about 4 hours per wheel. Did one a day. Powerball works but only if a 'freshening' is needed. Anything more has to be done by hand. Good luck!

I wont say it wont stain it but when I used it I sprayed it on everything and nothing happened. It is also only suppose to be on there for a few minutes anyway and not be allowed to dry.

Use to have a VW CC. Great looking car but what a piece of dung. Ours was constantly being worked on. Loved the interior and the little 2.0 turbo would move.

The faded looking circles are sanding spots that have come back. That is very common thing that happens especially on black. They sanded some spots out for you then buffed them out with compound. When cool it will appear they are buffed out completely then once they get hot under the sun they will pop back up. Have no idea why that happens but it does lol if your a capable buffer just hit them with some more compound and polish out. If not take it back and tell them they popped back up and they will buff it. Very easy fix. The clear coat was not burned.

I got a buttery wax I'll trade you for the VRT if you want? I got it in January and only used it once. The patriot is just so much better I'll never use it.

Looks like a fading clear coat. Pretty typical for a car that old without a lot of care. Maybe some oxidation too that might be able to be polished out.