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RayS last won the day on April 11

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About RayS

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    Master AF Detailer


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    Columbia, SC
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  1. CS3 and Graphene Details Spray are perfect companions for the Ceramic Wax.
  2. From what I have been able to tell from the vehicles I have done it is comes down to the plastic used in the trim. You can get vehicles from the same manufacturer, such as the Mustang and Ranger, but they use different plastics. What I do now and have avoided the problem is that I make sure I get the edges of the trim with the Surface Prep, therefore I know it is clean. I try as much as possible to avoid touching the trim, but I have no doubt that I'm still touching it once in a while. So when I start removing the coating after it has flashed, I start with the trim, do the rest
  3. You'll love the Ceramic Liquid Wax for the ease of use and it still lasts a long time and should be perfect for multiple months on the front of the 5th wheel. I have not used it on top of Paint Sealant, so I cannot tell you if that would affect the longevity or not.
  4. I've done 4 or 5 bed covers and 2 convertible tops, all with the original ceramic spray coating. First and most importantly is to ensure the surface is clean, cool and out of the sun when you do the application. My prep has been a full strip wash and then using one of two products that I've used for years. Adam's does sell the Fabric Protection kit that states it works on all fabrics including convertible tops, but I have not used it yet, so I cannot comment on it. I have never used surface prep on any of the tonneau covers or convertible tops. The strip wash and conditioner an
  5. I always recommend a strip wash when you don't know what is on the item you are dealing with. That is the only way to ensure that anything the dealer or someone else did is removed and you are bonding to the original surface. Paint Sealant should work fine and you can always top it with H20 Guard & Gloss. Also, if you have Wash & Wax, it works well for doing large surfaces. If you have Ceramic Paste Wax, that will hold up for many months and would be another product that you could use on the front.
  6. I have used Revive Hand Polish on an interior piece and it worked well to fix some marks - maybe too well. Once the one piece was done I end up going over several others to make them all look the same. Revive Hand Polish will bring a shine out of the plastic pieces. I would highly recommend finding a piece that is somewhat hidden and doing a test spot to make sure you like the results.
  7. For the beating that the front of the camper gets, I'd recommend twice a year with ceramic spray coating, if it is always exposed to the weather. If you have a canopy that it is under or a cover that you put on it for the winter, then once a year, late spring should be fine. If you have a canopy then you want to do it under the canopy when the sun will not hit it for a few hours. If you do not have a canopy and cannot otherwise get it out of the sun, wait until you have a low to mid humidity day when there will be cloud cover for the entire process and no risk of rain.
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  9. Hi Josh, I have not done a vehicle with Graphene outside, I have done two vehicles with the regular Ceramic Spray Coating outside. In both cases I used a canopy that was large enough to cover the entire vehicle and was able to keep the entire vehicle out of the sun. Both vehicles came out fine and I did not have any problems with applying the coating.
  10. Hi Ryan, On the last couple of campers that I have done, I have gone with Wash & Wash. Using the Foam Gun or Foam Cannon along with Red Car Wash Wedge makes for a easy wash on large surfaces and leaves the camper looking good. Using G20 Guard and Gloss once a month or so is also beneficial. As for the Class 'C' cabover and the front on 5th wheel's and campers using Spray Wax on them right before travelling makes getting the bugs off much easier when you arrive at your destination.
  11. Welcome to the Forum Rodney.
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