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RayS

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  1. RayS's post in detaling was marked as the answer   
    Hi Ahmed,
    If you choose to do a ceramic or graphene coating it has to go on top of the film.  One of the common things to do is put PPF in the areas where the vehicle will host the most abuse, the front, behind the wheel wells and the rocker panels.  Then you can coat the entire vehicle.  The PPF will help protect against rock chips and such, although some can still leave marks.  The coating will keep the vehicle looking good for a longer time and make it easier to keep clean.
  2. RayS's post in Glass boost & tire armor spray bottle issues was marked as the answer   
    I've had my share of problems with the baby sprayers also.  If you take your finger nail or something similar and scrape the front where the spray comes out prior to trying to pull the trigger you can usually unplug it.  I also have a needle that I can insert into the end if the the first method fails.  Be aware that the needle can make the hole a bit bigger so can become more of a spray than a mist.
     
    Alternately you can go by one of the hobby stores and pick up a couple of paint sprayers.  If it is compatible with acrylic, then it will generally work well with other sealant type products.
  3. RayS's post in Metal polishing with Micro Polisher was marked as the answer   
    Hi Steve,
    I have a battery operated variable speed Dremel that allows me to use tiny felt pads to go around the bolts and other tiny parts on the motorcycles.   I buy them in bulk since it is not unusual to shred one or two on a single bolt.  There is no way to go around the bolts by hand, so you have to use some type of machine.   For the larger parts, like side covers, I do them entirely by hand.  
     
    Based on the experience with the Demel for the bolts and other hard to reach areas, I don't see any reason why you couldn't use one of the Adam's polishers.  The one thing that I would recommend is to use a soft pad.  This is based from my use of borderless gray or felt pads when I'm using the metal polishes.  My biggest concern is a scratch on the chrome since the only fix is a re-chrome and that gets expensive quickly.
     
    I have not looked into ultra soft or felt based pads for the polishers, so hopefully some others will respond with their experiences. 
  4. RayS's post in RV Fiberglass Tips & Techniques was marked as the answer   
    My recommendation for longevity and ease of application for a large area is HGG.  If the RV is primarily white, then HGG is even better.  Alternately, if you are going to wash it on a regular basis and use a foam gun, you can use Wash & Wax and the Red Car Wash Wedge since it will cover a large area quickly.    https://adamspolishes.com/collections/car-washing-accessories/products/adam-s-wash-wedge
     
    Using Wash & Wax, My motorhome, which I sold about 2 years ago was a 30' Class C and I could do it with Wedge and Foam Gun in about 4 hours.  The 30' camper that I take care of and has 3 sliders takes me about 3 hours and the 26' class A, no slides, takes about 2.5.   I can do them every 4 to 6 weeks.
     
    When using HGG it is a spring and fall endeavor and takes about 8 hours for a 27' Class A with two slides.  HGG requires a wash first and then the application of the HGG and time on a ladder.  The HGG does give it a better appearance, but it is a whole lot more work.  I have not had anyone willing to pay for a coating yet on a camper or motorhome, but I suspect that would be a many day effort.
     
    Revive Hand Polish or now it is just called hand polish tends to make the graphics really pop.  The downside is that once you start with the hand polish on the graphics, especially if they are oxidized, you have to do them all because they will look so much better.
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