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Day job is being a parts manager at Shafiroff Racing Side gig is detailing at Detail Demon

A toilet brush is probably your best bet honestly. For my super low profile wheel arches I use an EZ detail brush. Long, soft nylon bristles reach the plastic. The wand is also able to bend so it helps me a lot. I use the ez detail jr for door jambs and such too...

I'm sure mineral spirits would help in stripping it too.

I use Adams fender brush paired with a concentrated non-Adam's APC diluted 5:1 which is pretty strong to be honest. I usually hose it down first, let it dry most of the way and then spray/soak with the APC. I will go in with the fender brush after that and agitate. Once I rinse everything down I don't see issues with residue in the wheel wells. Once I was done I dressed it with an aerosol trim dressing similar to Adam's in and out spray.

I bought the blanket last year for my mother as a random gift. Its is hands down her favorite blanket. Its super soft and very heavy. It keeps you extremely warm if that is your thing per say. It should last forever lol. Quality is amazing and it is expensive but worth it if you want a triple throw down blanket.

I use a highly concentrated APC for interiors such as that one. I dilute it 10:1 for interior work and use a spritz of a 6:1 dilution for heavier staining if the 10:1 didn't cut it. You can also use a magic eraser ever so lightly to remove those marks.

The only competitor I am aware of is Ammo Hydrate. The original formula was water activated just like G&G. It was recently re-formulated to be used in the dry as well (Feburary 2018ish).

This past wash I did a quick iron decon (live next to train tracks, I chemically decon every 3 months or so) and sprayed my wheels while I was at it. When I got around to rinsing the entire car off the wheels were 85% clean after just the rinse off. They weren't washed for 2 weeks at that point. It works just fine is my point. For the agitation part of cleaning your wheels, after a pre-treatment of the iron remover you can just use soap and water mixed in a spray bottle for some lubrication as the iron remover doesn't have much to offer (wasn't designed for cleaning wheels).

When it starts getting cold out I don't worry myself too much with the thoughts of stripping my sealant for the fact I use a drying aid every wash in the winter. If I happen to use APC before-hand to help remove caked on grime and it began to degrade my sealant, no biggie. I add spray wax (non Adam's) to the panel when drying which should provide another 2-3 weeks of protection which is longer than I go for maintenance washes. Once it is spring/summer I don't use APC often because I don't have that caked on grime on the vehicle.

I've done it many times. A better solution would be to spray the panel down with your APC and THEN rinse it down at the pay and spray. The stuck on crud will come off much easier that way in my experience.

I try hard to get into Matt's channel, I really do. There's something about him that doesn't quite click with me. I love the content that he provides but there's something else I don't like. Pan seems like a really nice and cool guy. I'm hoping to go to SEMA next year and who knows, maybe I'll bump into him and say hello.

My last reply on this subject, but if you go to the 1:32 mark of the video above you can clearly see the dirt sitting on the raised pockets, not going into the recessed ones like is stated. A plush microfiber will give you more surface area and more space for the dirt to travel (into the long fibers). I have learned to experiment with certain things and not always take someone's word for gold. When you experiment, you learn and gain wisdom

Having only done a waterless wash on my vehicle a few times (rinseless is my go-to) I can say I don't feel 100% comfortable using the "waterless wash towel" on my paint. I've heard a very knowledgeable detailer say "If you feel like you're scratching the pain, you probably are". And I can't help but to get that feeling using the waffle weave towel. However, I think they make good glass towels and I prefer the borderless grey style towel (480-500gsm, long nap plush towel) over a waffle weave for this scenario. The dirt has somewhere to go "up" into with the longer nap. I won't get into it much more but a 500gsm towel is my go-to for rinseless or waterless washing any time.

So in the future, I would say a borderless grey towel would work better to hide the stains since it bothers you. The first time I tried Guard and Gloss my double softs got stained. It is what it is unfortunately. Still performs the same but I feel your pain on wanting to keep the color white.

Take your time and if possible, have someone there with you to periodically spritz water onto the glass. The glass polish has a tendency to dry up since you're creating so much heat. Even though the product dried up doesn't mean the abrasives aren't there. The water will allow the abrasives to do more work. It takes some patience to do but should make your glass better than it is now.

That happened to me as well in my apartment when we were working down here. It happened with a ton of microfiber applicator pads I had lying around. Unfortunately there is no way to remove 100% of the shavings, even using a 100psi air compressor. It's best to pick most of the shavings out of the towels and downgrade them to exhaust/engine bay/interior duty.

Your process is sound! Exactly my process and thoughts behind it. A steamer can also also work wonders for engine bays you don’t want to use a lot of water in. Carbureted engines come to mind. A little bit of mild APC (diluted 10:1) agitated with some brushes, steam and wipe. Done!

Thats a good one!! A friend of mine got into detailing for a few months and then put his arsenal up for sale. I messaged him asking for details. 99% of his arsenal was chemical guys so I did a hard pass on that one LOL. It was $1,000 worth of stuff for $500 BUT what am I going to do with products I don't use, ya know?

A ceramic coating would be my choice to protect a fresh, bare painted engine bay. Just be sure to follow your painter's guidelines for applying any products to the paint. There is period of time where the paint has to cure. You bring up an interesting point being the engine bay will see more heat. I would still use regular ceramic coating in there. I've seen plenty of people use normal ceramic coatings for their wheels before and it holds up just fine.

Pay and spray combined with a rinseless wash is the way to go. I use a sponge as my wash media and it goes super fast. Being that I have a little car, the wash may take me 15 minutes or so with drying included. Use a drying aid and get the water off fast for less chance of freezing. The drying aid will help pick up the water because cold water doesn't like to evaporate.

I have heard him say that. It is a waste of time because if he doesn't like it, he can't recommend people to buy it from his affiliate links. I'm all for affiliate links but that is the purpose of 99% of his videos. I understand everything like being compensated for his time/effort/hard work but that's why we don't see any negative reviews or bad things being said. If cons are listed there is a greater chance people would be deterred and not buy those products. I think his videos are very well put together and he seems like a really great guy.

I do like Pan's channel. I just wish he was a little more "real world" with some of his videos. I never hear him say he doesn't like certain products. I never hear him give a "con" to any product either or even compare two of them and say likes and dislikes of either. There's no way he has only good things to say about all of the products he tests and shows. Just my opinion

Thanks! He said he has the truck "detailed" once a year but I'm unsure of who has done it in the past. The truck isn't used all that much but there were many stains on the seats and carpet which leads me to believe the prior "detailer" did a simple vacuum/wipedown and called it good. I scrubbed every single fabric surface inside and took 85% of the stains out.

Theres many good things you can do with the porter cable. You can put a 3" backing plate on it to do headlight restorations or you can keep the 5" backing plate on it and use a carpet brush for interiors. Both are good purposes for that polisher.

On Saturday I detailed a 2006 Dodge Ram 1500. He loaned his daily beater out and had to use this for work. He works on pretty dirty job sites so it was filthy. Dirt caked on in every orifice and significant road tar in the front right wheel well. It was a full interior/exterior job but I didn't get after pictures of the interior because I ran out of sunlight by the time I was done (I worked with LED's to finish the job up). This took me 9 hours start to finish. The exterior was done with an all in one polish to restore shine and gloss and then that was topped with a spray sealant for some extra longevity and added depth. The wheels were cleaned with an iron activated cleaner, tires done with TRC and tires dressed with a water based dressing. Exhaust tips polished with metal polish #1 to get some gloss back and the door jambs protected with a spray wax. Here are a few pictures of the exterior.