BRZN

I feel the Leather & Interior Cleaner is the stronger of the two. Same as Rich, I've used Aqua Net Hair Spray to remove ink. I've also used Lacquer Thinner to take care of some nasty stains, be sure to try in an inconspicuous spot first, it could remove the leather's dye.

The All Purpose Interior Cleaning Gel doesn't seem to leave the leather with the same dry feel as the Leather & Interior Cleaner.

10 hours ago, falcaineer said:

Few questions - I don't have an exact solution, sorry - you cleaned with Tire and Adhesive Remover/TAR? Have you always done that? If so, why? Is it possible it leaves a film on the tires?

Chris, I suggested he try cleaning with the TAR in my post farther up the thread. The TAR, or Stoner's Bug and Sap Remover helps to strip the tires clean. He then followed up, also my suggestion, by scrubbing them again with Wheel & Tire Cleaner. He cut the Wheel & Tire Cleaner 50%, not my suggestion, I use it full strength.

16 hours ago, Mantis said:

I did everything , I cleaned them full strength, then rinse well. Then cleaned them with Tar Remover, rinsed again, then cleaned them once again 1/2 strength as the wheel and tire cleaner foams up when you cut it, there was absolutely no brown of any kind, just clean water and soap clear and white suds.

 

 Used the Leaf blower to dry them down and let them sit outside for about an hour before I took it into the garage for it's first dressing. Didn't even bother with Tire armor my trigger is seized up and I couldn't get it to work so I just went VRT. Well it looked like it was gonna go on nice and even but it dried up, left a flat back finish with some streaks here and there. The way these tires react to dressing is like it rejects it.  I don't know if I should write to Adam's and see if they have a solution to these tires. They are the only ones in all my years of detailing and owning tires have I ever seen tires made out of rubber react like this.

 

 I will snap some pic's so you guys can see. Maybe someone in here will have a actual solution to these tires, not a general solution as these are some strange tires.

 

If you let the rubber heat up in the sun as I'd suggested, the pores of the rubber opened up some and allowed the VRT to soak in. You needed to continue to reapply until the tire stops absorbing and you get your desired results. The Dressings can't be rejected off the tire, it's still there, it just needs built up.

Welcome Joe!

Different tire manufacturer's rubber compounds react differently to different chemicals, this includes cleaners and dressings/coatings.

How I prep new tires for Tire Armor, Tire Coating;

I work with them off the vehicle.

I scrub them thoroughly, twice, using the Tire Brush with Tire & Rubber Cleaner, or Wheel & Tire Cleaner, rinsing in-between and after.

Spray the tire down with Adams Tar or Stoners Tar and Sap Remover (work fast, out of the sun and try not to get any on the wheel to minimize the chance for damage) and scrub again using the Tire Brush.

Rinse thoroughly

Scrub one more time with Tire & Rubber Cleaner or Wheel & Tire Cleaner.

Wipe or Blow the tire completely dry.

If there's still white residue around any of the letters/numbers on the tire repeat the process until there's none. This is the mold release agent you want to remove.

Lay the tires in the direct sun, or use a heat gun to heat up the rubber. This will open the pores of the rubber up allowing the Tire Armor to soak into the tire rather than simply sitting on the surface.

I apply as many coats, waiting 20 minutes between coats, until I reach my desired amount of gloss.

I maintain the Tire Armor with Graphene Tire Dressing after each wash.

My brand new Vredestein tires have four coats of Tire Armor and the pictures of the car are two months after application:

The brand new Bridgestone's on the Camaro also received four coats of Tire Armor:

Outside under a tent could possibly be the issue. If pollen was heavy in the air (as it has been here in Central PA the past several weeks) while you were applying the coating, it would have been landing on the paint. The pollen would have affected the coating's ability to properly bond.

When you receive the new kit, do just the hood to see if you'll get a difference before attempting the entire vehicle. If there's anything left on the hood the coating may not be able to adhere correctly. Since you appear to have an issue, don't try layering. I'd suggest start by knowing for sure the hood is back down to bare paint by Strip Washing, Claying, Polishing, using the Surface Prep, then applying one layer of the coating in the normal cross hatch pattern.

Be sure to thoroughly shake the bottle of coating before application and don't start to remove it until it begins to become a bit tacky, the towel should have a slight bit of drag to it across the panel as you buff.

You didn't mention, but are you doing the work inside a garage, or outside? Is it curing inside an enclosed garage, under a car port, or out on the driveway?

Let the new panel cure for 48 hours before getting it exposed to the elements. Then see how water reacts on it.

The 2021 Ford Nationals @ Carlisle is just about a month out Gang, and Adam's will be there!

https://www.carlisleevents.com/events/events-detail/index?id=ford+nationals

 We'll be located on the Midway, just look for our 25' inflatable Detail Spray Bottle perched on top of our trailer.

Along with an awesome assortment of Adam's goodies and expert advice from Detailing Experts, we're going to be offering onsite detailing. If you're interested in services, pricing and, scheduling give Dan a call (no texts please) at 385 315-7198.

We offered detailing at Spring Carlisle and spaces filled up quickly, so don't wait!

The Team will be arriving today (Monday April 19th) around noon to begin set up. We should be open for business and detailing around noon on Wednesday. There are still detailing slots available if your interested.

Stop on by if in the area!

We'll be on the Midway Row IE Spaces 125-130. Same spot we're usually in.

If the Hand Polish isn't aggressive enough, the Swirl Killer Micro may be what you'll need. The exterior products will work, paint's paint inside or out. It may not be cleared and it may be thinner, but it's still paint. As with exterior paint start with the least aggressive and work more aggressively if needed. Brilliant Glaze can also help to hide fine swirls and holograms.

You get what you pay for...

With proper washing techniques and care the Ceramic Coatings will last for years.

Can you get part of the truck inside the garage?

If so, Ceramic coat half one day, then the next day turn it around and do the other half.

At Carlisle Events My Adam's Team will Ceramic Spray Coat or use the traditional 50 or 60ml bottles to Ceramic Coat vehicles on the Fairgrounds. We apply under our canopy to keep out of direct sunlight, then move the vehicle out into the sun to try to more quickly allow it to cure. We've not noticed, or heard of, any issues to date.

I apply the Ceramic Spray Coating every year (overtop a Ceramic Coated vehicle), sometimes at a six month interval depending on time. Wash and Clay the vehicle. You'll have to determine which clay to use depending on the severity of contaminants embedded in the paint after washing; Fine, Medium Visco, or the Clay Mitt. If you've not washed at all throughout the winter it may need the more aggressive Visco Clay. Once clayed, evaluate the paint for marring and scratches. I usually get away with just some spot polishing, not the entire vehicle again. There's only so much paint on the vehicle, and polishing is slowly removing small amounts. I keep my cars quite a while and hate having to get panels re-painted because I got carried away. With proper wash techniques and not going overly aggressive while claying (use plenty of lubrication and don't use too mush pressure) the paint's still in fine shape overall.

I regularly use the Interior Protection Paste on Leather seats. Steering wheels and door panels I'll use Leather Conditioner or Leather & Interior Dressing, for the dash I use Interior Detailer. What's in the perforations is going to go away rather quickly.

Compressed air and a Detailing Brush if it's still dry. get to it quickly!

Looks nice!

Most likely you won't be able to remove it. The bird poo is acidic, and it's etched into the wrap. You could try a multitude of things; Brilliant Glaze, Fine or Medium Grade Clay, very lightly polish it by hand with Hand Polish, or even try using a DA with the White Foam Pad and Polish on a slow speed with light pressure. Keep a bottle of Waterless Wash with you and a Waterless Wash Towel, remove and Bird droppings or splattered bugs immediately. Wraps aren't usually as forgiving as paint, and the bird bombs and bug guts will do the same thing to paint if left very long.

Don't know yet, they don't release that info until the week before the event. But my guess is the same spot we've been at the past several years. Just look for the 25' inflatable Detail Spray bottle on top of our trailer on the midway, can't miss it.

The Spring Carlisle Collector Car Flea Market and Corral is on for 2021, and scheduled for Wednesday April 21 through Sunday April 25.

https://www.carlisleevents.com/events/events-detail/index?id=spring+carlisle

The Adam's Team will be on the Midway and be doing something a bit different this year. Along with product sales, professional advise and demonstrations, we're going to be doing on site detailing!

If you'd like to book an appointment ahead of time, please give Dan a call (no texts, phone won't accept texts), at 385 315-7198. He can also review pricing and services with you at that time.

When on the Fairgrounds come to our location and look for Kyle or Dan for an appointment.

Amazing how much better a "new" car looks after a decontamination and polish! Customers usually state something along the lines of, "it looks better than when I drove it home".

There should be a large cap on the jug. The center of that large cap is female threaded. Sit the jug upright so the large cap is at the highest point and cut a hole in the caps center, not damaging those threads. Insert the spout into this large cap by threading its male threads into the center female threads. Remove the small cap and put a hole in the center of the port that protrudes from where you just removed the little cap. Put the little cap back on, but not completely tight, that's the air vent to let product out. Lay the jug down on its side so the product can come out the spout inserted into the large cap with the small cap at the top above the level of the product.

How are you with opening a Mayonnaise jar?🤣

I apply the Spray Coating twice a year; once in the spring and once in the fall. It's hard to tell when it's gone if you're maintaining the cars paint properly.

Yes, perfectly fine to use.

Here's my procedure, a bit more involved, but no streaks, spots, or dots.

I lightly mist an Edgeless Utility towel with plain water. I'll Spray the Graphene Detail Spray onto the slightly dampened towel, folded into quarters. I'll wipe about a 3' square portion of the vehicle at a time with this Edgeless Utility towel, then immediately buff the 3' section to a high gloss perfection with an Borderless Gray Microfiber towel. I tend to use too much product, and this method works for me with not only the Graphene Detail Spray, but with Ceramic Boost, CS3, and Ceramic Waterless Wash.