BRZN

No, that's your Car Shampoo, it's all you'll need.

Newer vehicle? You've most likely got a stainless steel exhaust; it's not going to rust. The engine sits higher than the exhaust tips; you're not going to get water into the engine, the water will run out. Start the vehicle up to blow any remaining water from the exhaust. If you wash the tips weekly, every time you wash, you may get away with just the Woolie and APC. If they have a build up of soot use 0000 Steel Wool with a lubricant. Anything from WD-40, to Metal Polish, to APC, to Glass Cleaner.

A Streamer would be your best bet. However, if you don't have a steamer; I love the Multi Use Foaming Cleaner on tough stains. Paired with a Tamping Brush works best-Google it or You Tube search.

Yes, Strip Wash, Iron Remover, and even the Fine Grade Clay should safely get you to the bare Graphene Coating.

It takes mechanical action to remove a Ceramic Coating. You're going to have to machine polish it off. I was able to remove the regular SiO2 Ceramic Coating with a Microfiber Pad and Compound and a bit of work. The Spray Coating should come off much easier, especially after being on the vehicle for six months. If a little remains you should be fine since they're two similar chemicals and will bond to each other as long as the original layer isn't too substantial. Be sure to thoroughly wipe the vehicle down with Surface Prep before application.

My personal vehicles are all Ceramic Coated, with either the Ceramic Coating, or Graphene Ceramic Coating. Once a year, I apply the Ceramic Spray Coating, or Graphene Ceramic Spray Coating on top of the Coating that's already on the paint surface. To prep the paint I do a Strip Wash, followed up with a Fine Grade Clay session. I look over the vehicles paint and correct any defects; scratches, scuffs, marring, etc with a polishing in those areas only. Wipe down with Surface Prep and apply the Spray Coating.

On older vehicles with their original single stage paint I'll usually use Adam's Paint Sealant and recommend customers maintain the shine with his H2O Guard and Gloss after washings with the hose. Traditional waxes don't last as long as sealants, and I'd rather not mess with the original paint using Ceramics. I reserve Ceramics for newer vehicles and those with Clear Coat, however, the Ceramics could be used on older paints. I did a 1980 original paint Camaro a couple months ago and Graphene Ceramic Coated the black hood as there wasn't much paint left and wanted to preserve what was there the best I could. Adam's Paint Sealant: Graphene Ceramic Coated black on hood:

Any protection I've applied to my vehicles exhaust tips seems to burn off rather quickly due to the exhaust temp: Glaze, Wax, Sealants, and Ceramics. The Ceramic coatings do tend to last longest. The key to keeping them looking new is to clean them every time you wash the vehicle. I'll use All Purpose Cleaner, Eco All Purpose Cleaner, or Tire & Rubber Cleaner with a Wheel Woolie, or cheap four finger microfiber mesh mitt. After the vehicle's dry I'll wipe the outside and inside of the tips with Metal Polish #2. If it's a customers vehicle and the tips have been neglected I'll use 0000 Steel Wool with the detergents listed above or Glass Cleaner, or WD-40 as the lubricant.

Working on hammered raw aluminum wheels in the past, I'd started with 800 grit and progressively worked my way down to 3,000 grit before polishing.

If it's the self healing type of Clear Bra, heat will remove the scratches: sun, heat gun, hair dryer. As for polishing, I'd recommend Adam's Polish using his White Foam Pad with your machine running at speed 2 or 3. You'll be more cleaning the bra than actually polishing it. Finish with Brilliant Glaze then Wax or apply Sealant overtop.

Where are you located in PA? Go to Adam's web page: https://adamspolishes.com/ Scroll to the bottom of the page, under About you'll see Store locator, click that. Put in your zip code and your search distance. We do six Shows/Events yearly on the Carlisle Fairgrounds where you can see, purchase, and ask questions about products and detailing. The first this year will be Spring Carlisle April 21-25.

One coat done properly/

1.)Wash in the shade. If no shade, wash in the early morning or evening 2.)Don't rinse the soap off the vehicle until you're done washing the entire vehicle 3.)Sheet rinse and dry using Detail Spray as a drying aide or 3a.)after you rinse off the soap, rinse that water off (that contains minerals that leave spotting) with Deionized, Reverse Osmosis, or Distilled water then 4.)blow dry the vehicle with an Air Cannon

Warm Water in my buckets. A thin pair of Glove Liners as insulation under a pair of Nitrile Gloves with a pair of Playtex Hand Saver Dishwashing Gloves over the Nitrile Gloves. As long as the temps are above freezing I wash outside on the driveway. No need for the local Pay & Spray, I've got a Pressure Washer. This may blow your mind's, but if it's below 40 and I decide to wash a vehicle, I'll often use the two bucket wash method with the Truck Brush! To date, no noticeable marring on any vehicle I've done this on. Those of you that know me, know I'd see the marring. It's not like I'm new to this.

As @falcaineer mentioned above, it's most likely dirt/contaminants left on the paint before you began polishing, even left over wax or sealant that was still there. What was your prep prior to polishing? Strip wash? Claying?

H2O Guard & Gloss is a water activated synthetic sealant that'll last for several washes adding protection to the paint. Slick & Slide is a topper. I use it after washes to give the vehicle that freshly waxed appearance. I feel it washes off rather quickly, but leaves a really nice gloss and smooth feel to the paint.

If not applying the Ceramic Coatings from the 50 or 60ml bottles, I find using the Ceramic Spray Coatings to be a much more efficient use of my time when doing customer cars verses waxing, using a sealant, or even using H2O Guard & Gloss. The ceramic sprays are so quick and easy to apply and remove, and have longevity far superior to waxes or sealants. It helps keep the cost down to the customer, and keeps the vehicle protected longer. That being said some vehicles I'll talk customers into using a paste wax. These would be older cars with older or original paint jobs. As @falcaneer just mentioned above I too tend to like the look of a carnauba wax on these vehicles. Also on show cars where defects/marring may need more attention than on daily drivers. Waxed: 2009 Porsche 997 Americana Paste Wax 1969 Z28 Camaro Patriot Paste Wax On my 2006 Pontiac GTO Garage Queen/Show Car I've Ceramic Coated the front clip that has PPF applied and have waxed the remainder of the car with Patriot Paste Wax.

I've got a black one with the old logo on it. The logo's different than the one Adam's wearing in the post above. It appears larger and has an American Flag background behind the text. I'm thinking 2012/13ish? I doubt I'd purchased it, it might have been given to those of us that did beta testing back then. It's a canvas type material, and has a large pocket on each side.

Yup, PPF on a guys Porsche hood. It was a Spring or Fall Carlisle and he was a car flipper. He was unaware the hood had PPF on it and one of my guys went after the hood with a machine. We realized what was going on quickly, but some marring was done. The paint was silver, so it didn't show very well, had it been a darker car we'd have been in trouble!

Apply the VRT to the trim prior to your hand polishing, after use of the clay bar and any washing of the vehicle. Your step 5, just use regular Car Shampoo You really don't need to apply the Brilliant Glaze to the paint after you've used the Paint Sealant and HGG. I feel the benefit achieved in added gloss isn't worth the product removing some of the protection. I would however still use it on the chrome and glass.

Had the same thing happen to my wife's gen 5 Camaro. Every time I'd wash the car, after I noticed how the front plastic grill and real valance looked, I'd scrub them clean with either Tire & Rubber Cleaner or APC using a Daytona Speed Master Wheel Brush in the grill and the Tire Scrub Brush on the rear valance. Over time it's been coming off. I applied the Ceramic Paint Coating to the plastics December of 2019. The original Trim Coating didn't need leveled, the updated Coatings do, as others above mentioned. The coatings are tough stuff and not easily removed. After several good scrubbings I was able to make the plastics look fairly okay with Ceramic Boost after washing.

First try washing them again with a milder Wheel Cleaner, heck even just Car Shampoo may improve them. Dry them completely then use either Hand Polish if Clear Coated, or Metal Polish #2 if raw metal. When using the Wheel Cleaner do only one wheel at a time, in the shade, when the wheel is cool, and do not let the product dry on the wheel. Rinse thoroughly after agitation. The tire should clean up by scrubbing with Tire & Rubber Cleaner or TAR.

Level both Spray Coatings on trim; Ceramic Spray Coating and the new Graphene Spray Coating. By leveling you'll minimize the chance of a chalky appearance to the trim.

I sometimes use Waterless wash after I two bucket wash a vehicle and blow it dry. The Waterless Wash removes any drips the blower left. As others stated above, it all depends on how dirty the vehicle is, and it's size. A Fiat 500 or a Cadillac Escalade? I buy by the gallon.

I've got 12 bottles in inventory at the Carlisle Fairgrounds and they are as thin as you state Sandalwood. They were like that when they arrived to me from headquarters.