Silverbugeye

If the car is more than dusty I use at least 16oz. I usually pre spray with rinseless wash diluted 16:1 (especially on the fender side area) and then use 8oz or so of CS3

From my experience CS3 can work as a stand alone project for several months. YouTubers have done durability tests and it’s really held up also.

If you enjoy cleaning. Be sure to use iron remover then any type of surface prep. Then apply spray coating. Then use CS3 when you want.

If you don’t like cleaning. Iron remover if you want or not and just continue to use CS3.

My opinion and I do overkill 

I had a 2022 rental car a few months back with zero protection on it. I divided the hood into 3 parts with CS3, graphene detail spray, and ceramic waterless wash. I sprayed the hood down and couldn’t tell a difference in water behavior meaning they all beaded exactly the same.

I washed the hood 2 times and the detail spray didn’t bead as much but the other 2 still worked great.

1 hour ago, Beemer said:

The new formula will NOT release until AFTER you have purchased a gallon of the current formula.

 

Just my experience.....                               <grin>

 

 

I want to buy a gallon in the Graphene CS3 even though I still have plenty of CS3…told myself I would hold off and not order until this next new stuff comes out

11 minutes ago, Resjudicata22 said:

Like an advanced spray coating?

To me it sounded like a water based product like a Ceramic Boost with more durability.

Something that would be like $50 for a 16oz bottle. Easier and longer lasting than spray coating at a higher cost. All my opinion.

A few weeks ago on the Facebook live a new 2 year coating with an easy application was said to be coming soon. Any more information on this?

I put my IK sprayer bottle in the bucket after I have mixed the rinseless and spray down the vehicle.

Tonight I even used CS3 as a drying aid/extra layer while wiping down before drying.

Waterless plus rinseless plus waterless combo for extra protection 

9 minutes ago, buffalobob920 said:

Thank you 🙏 

I did both of my new vehicles in the last 3 weeks. One with Graphene Ceramic coating and one with Graphene spray coating. First wash with both was 5 days after application with the new Graphene soap. No issues at all with beading on either. Rained today and still heading like crazy.

I know you already know this is how it’s supposed to work. Just pointing out that you aren’t crazy as I followed your same steps.

14 hours ago, BRZN said:

I regularly use the Interior Protection Paste on Leather seats. Steering wheels and door panels I'll use Leather Conditioner or Leather & Interior Dressing, for the dash I use Interior Detailer. What's in the perforations is going to go away rather quickly.

Serious question. How can you stand the smell of the paste? I knew it had an odd smell when applying and then my wife almost killed me because of the smell. I had to go over it 2 times with interior detailer to get the smell to go away.

8 minutes ago, melon said:

Thank you.  Based on that, I think I’ll go with H2OGG every 3 washes and the GDS the rest of the time. And the traditional spray wax will take the summer off. 

Make sure the H20GG has the red Hybrid Technology label on the front. That is the SiO2 infused version

What type of coating is suggested for black textured trim on a new vehicle.

I currently have graphene ceramic, graphene spray, and UV ceramic spray.

I know they are all supposed to work but I want to use something with the least amount of issues on the new vehicle 

To me the hybrid holds more water because of being double sided but the ultra plush leaves less streaks on the first pass.

 
Both good choices

I don’t think anyone knows for sure. What toppers have you used and how long have they been on?

I watched a YouTuber use CS3 on prepped paint and after 10 washes with Adams strip wash it was starting to fail.

For me if it has been a few weeks since toppers, I would use strip wash 2-3 times. Rinse and wash hood with strip wash and rinse off. Then repeat another 2 times.

You have definitely etched the glass. Hitting APC after Water Spot Remover just added a different acid on top of acid that was there. This is the same way you wouldn’t want to let APC sit and dry on glass or Water Spot remover.

not trying to lecture or anything. I usually do these type of goof ups myself.

My guess as a non expert is that you are going to need to polish the glass. Do some research on that or maybe someone else has some better advice

For me the CS3 can get streaky if you use too much. A little does go a long way as a drying aid.

I haven’t figured out the best way to use it as a waterless wash without being streaky.

Are these due same towels in different sizes and colors? I thought they would be very similar but the grey seems to be more grabby than the blue. Even when folded at the same size, the blue glides more on the surface.

Just trying to see if I am crazy or not. They are both listed as the same GSM on the website but the blue is the only one noted as made in Korea.

What is best for chrome/stainless exhaust tips? Mainly to keep black soot from sticking and make easier to clean.

How will graphene coating work on that surface? Anything else better?

This would be great !

I have used the Graphene Detail spray as a drying aid 5 times now with no streaking. I live in Florida and only wash in the evening.

I bring this up because I keep hearing in the Adam’s broadcast not to use it as a drying aid.

Does this just mean in direct sunlight?

CS3 streaks more to me as a drying aid.

Anyone else have positive or negative experiences?

17 hours ago, JordanAvery said:

As much as I know, you should treat it like usual paint. You can use the ceramic coating on the door jams and it's not necessary to keep the door open or to reapply paint after it dries. I worked with some guys that do ceramic coatings, and I learned this from them. I was truly impressed with the finished result because I didn't know that ceramic coating can make everything look so good. I would totally use this after for other projects, so if you have any to share, feel free to do so.

 

Gravedigger!

18 minutes ago, falcaineer said:

 

Yes, it adds a very small amount of silica-based protection. The website needs to be updated.

I seriously need a goodie bag for finding things like this. Though I think the only thing I don’t have is the Adams dog bowl.

Is the chart correct for Ultra foam? The website says specifically that it doesn’t add protection.

We released this product to better serve our customers' request for a high foaming and sudsing soap, without adding protection and remaining pH neutral.

I don’t know if it’s normal but I have the same specks. Shaking the bottle doesn’t dissolve them

Strip wash will take that off for sure. Also any IPA type wipedown will do the same. The V07 isn’t very durable 

1 hour ago, Chris@Adams said:

This info (#3) is incorrect and needs change, I have brought it to the teams attention.

 Thank you.

How should I resolve my issue?

1 hour ago, Chris@Adams said:

Yes that's exactly what happened, on trim you must wipe and level just like on paint.

I did a little test on my truck bumper to see what would happen if I didn't wipe off the Graphene, and yes it turned white-grey too.

I plan on working on it this weekend and will let you know what happens.

 

Here's the instructions from the site.

 

Instructions for Plastic Trim & Headlights:

1. Prepare your plastic trim or headlights by using the supplied 4oz bottle of Adam’s Surface Prep and edgeless utility towel to clean and degrease the surface of any existing protection or residual films. For heavily contaminated plastic trim or headlights, we recommend a deep cleanse with Tire & Rubber Cleaner and an edgeless utility towel.
2. Open the coating bottle and begin by dispensing numerous drops of the liquid onto the supplied Micro Silk applicator to sufficiently wet it. Work the product into the surface, ensuring full coverage over the desired area, using cross hatching motions and overlapping your previous pass by 25-50%. Since the product is being applied to a porous surface, you will not see a rainbow/ flashing effect - the immediate color change of the plastic or trim will reveal where the product has been applied. However, you are also able to utilize the Adam’s UV Flashlight for inspections where desired.
3. Once the recently applied product has penetrated, begin leveling the coating, applying minimal pressure to the towel in the process. Wipe down in a similar cross hatch pattern as applied, switching/flipping the towel periodically to use a new face to fully level the coating.
4. Once fully leveled, allow the coating to fully cure for 24 hours, free from water, elements, or weathering.

Here are the instructions from the kit. Look at #3