Sam Y

I used to use detail spray as my dying aid. I tried the CS3 for the first time for drying and I must say it's much slicker. I did a full bucket wash and then dried with CS3 as lubrication in 20 mins. It worked great for getting all that salt off the paint! I just wonder why they give such a tiny bottle for it. I almost ran out by the time I was finishing, and the car is just a mid sized sedan....

Only thing that comes to mind is a WW or RW, which would have to be done frequently and have towels specifically for wheel/tire use.

Typically by the time I need to do the wheels the whole car needs it. Especially around here with all of the bugs we have.
 
For the odd time I do need to clean the wheels in between washes, my go to is waterless wash, (I am a big fan of the waterless wash) If the rims have hardly any dirt or brake dust I will use CS3 which is what I always use on my rims after washing. 

Wheel Cleaner and Iron Remover are essentially the same product, the latter being a thinner version so it can spread and cover a larger area on painted panels. I would recommend you wipe any residue from the wheels with something like Waterless Wash to avoid potential stains. 
 
Splash back can easily be removed with any of the waterless or Rinseless Wash options.

I just use the regular detail spray for drying the car after a wash. I feel it helps with the lubrication and streak free results. I feel like drying first then using detail spray is too much work...

I know I've already said this, but will say it again, the more I use Waterless Wash the more I like it, used it last night to clean up jeep after it got caught in a rain storm yesterday at work. I had just washed and used CS3 on it the day before. 
 
Cleaned all of the dirt and watermarks perfectly, took 15 - 20 minutes to clean it up.
 

There is a difference between softened and deionized water. Do not drink the latter, all minerals are removed so there's no nutritional value, and the taste will be off, too.

1.)Wash in the shade. If no shade, wash in the early morning or evening
2.)Don't rinse the soap off the vehicle until you're done washing the entire vehicle
3.)Sheet rinse and dry using Detail Spray as a drying aide
or
3a.)after you rinse off the soap, rinse that water off (that contains minerals that leave spotting) with Deionized, Reverse Osmosis, or Distilled water
then
4.)blow dry the vehicle with an Air Cannon

Agreed with Chris, I don't see a way either. Here are a couple of videos where Adam uses a wash bay and his tips for doing so in the winter, and the principles are pretty much the same all year. As Chris also said, make sure the car wash allows it, some don't.
 
 
 

Hi Michael, I do certainly apologize for the issues! Do you have any pictures of the affected area?

In the product video, we do show to use Waterless Wash immediately after using Water Spot Remover to neutralize the acids in Water Spot Remover. APC is a very strong degreaser, so it most likely gave a boost to the Water Spot Remover rather than neutralizing it. 

I will see if they can edit the instructions on the product page to be more clear, and again, I am very sorry for this issue.

A cerium oxide polish specifically for glass might be an option to polish the glass back, but unfortunately we do not offer a polish specifically for glass at the moment.

Love the Leather Conditioner, it works and smells great. Adams also now has a Leather and Interior Dressing that's a matte finish and no scent. Here's a side by side, The left is the Dressing, the middle is the is nothing/normal daily wear, and the right is the Conditioner.
 

 
I'll also add that I've done a few cars now with the new (to you) Leather and Vinyl Coating, and the results were really impressive. Every owner has said it was better than new. It's easy to work with, and it also gives a slight leather scent to the car too that smells like the Conditioner. That would be your best, longest lasting protection especially in that hot sun. Here's a before and after on a Mustang that I did.
 

 

And if you want to get a little more scientific, check out this video. You've ben warned 🤓
 
 
 
 

Warm Water in my buckets. A thin pair of Glove Liners as insulation under a pair of Nitrile Gloves with a pair of Playtex Hand Saver Dishwashing Gloves over the Nitrile Gloves. As long as the temps are above freezing I wash outside on the driveway. No need for the local Pay & Spray, I've got a Pressure Washer.
 
This may blow your mind's, but if it's below 40 and I decide to wash a vehicle, I'll often use the two bucket wash method with the Truck Brush!
 
To date, no noticeable marring on any vehicle I've done this on. Those of you that know me, know I'd see the marring. It's not like I'm new to this.

When it is cold in South Carolina, I use a couple of methods to keep my hands warmer than would be expected.  First is to use warm water to fill the buckets.  This has the benefit of keeping the wash mitt warm since that is what you are holding onto and it allows you to hold your hand in the water to warm them up if necessary.
 
Second and even more important is wearing disposable mechanics gloves.  These are form fitting and can be picked up online or any automotive parts store and things don't slip out of your hands, including the brushes.  The added advantage of the gloves is they keep your hands dry and if there is a breeze, the wind is not able to hit your exposed wet skin.   One of my neighbors has a pair of dish washing gloves that goes up almost to his elbow and and I'm sure they would work just was good to keep the water and wind from making you cold.

All,
 
New guy, and my first post here!
 
I want to be very clear, im looking for answers and what i may have done wrong, if anything, with this coating; so in the interest of that, 100% transparency and candor will be used in this post. As a side note, i did leave a review before i knew about the Adams forums which is severely condensed so i'll elaborate everything here. Get a fresh cup of coffee, or drink of your choice, here we go...
 
Vehicle:
2019 Chevy 2500HD, Diesel. Never had any buffing done to it - didnt let the dealer touch it, for obvious reasons. Driven daily, 60 mile round trip back and forth to work. Washed weekly, two bucket method with Adams "Ultra Foam" or "Mega Foam", whichever i have on hand.
 
The Process:
1. Wash vehicle with Adams strip wash, two bucket method and microfiber mits
2. Clay with Megs
3. Spray all painted surfaces, including wheels with Adams Iron remover. Wait for reaction while not letting product dry, rinse off
4. Re-wash vehicle with Adams strip wash, two bucket method and fresh microfiber mits
5. Final rinse and blow dry
6. Move vehicle under cover - surface temp 80 Deg F
7. Two step polish with Menzerna 1000 (Only a few spots needed a heavier cut) and 2500/3500 on the rest of the vehicle. 2500 and then 3500 were used on the areas that Menzerna 1000 was used on. 98% of the vehicle only needed 3500.
8. Re-wash with Adams strip wash after polishing - no spatter on the paint, but i prefer doing it this way with my vehicles to ensure everything is removed.
9. Blow vehicle down with compressed air and microfiber towels to dry.
10. IPA wipe down.
11. Following label directions apply Adams Graphene spray, allow to rainbow and then remove. I did one panel at a time. Applied second coat once i made it once around the vehicle.
12. Leave garaged for 24 hrs to "cure"
 
Here is where im at a loss - ive only gotten roughly six weeks out of this coating and its pretty much gone. To be clear, the usability and versatility (using on trim etc) is phenomenal - Adams, you did great with this aspect!!! The durability, atleast for me, has been horrible. As mentioned, i wash weekly, and saw a gradual decline in product hydrophobics and performance. The first wash was great, nothing stuck to the surface, not even soap - after that it was a steady decline. Is it possible that i got a faulty bottle??? Below is a panel by panel breakdown, i'll do what i can to be as accurate as possible, but i do NOT have any way to specifically measure.
 
Hood: Very little if any hydrophobic activity, not sure how to give a percentage on this so i'll be a little generous and say approximately 10% product performance remaining.
Windshield: Horrible, nothing left - No beading. No sheeting. Nothing
Door glass: Maybe 20% product performance remaining, being generous
Roof: about the same, 20% product performance left, being generous, little to no hydrophobics
Tailgate: Approximately 20% product performance left.
Fenders, Doors, Bedside: Top third of panel about MAYBE 5% left. 
Fenders, Doors, Bedside: Bottom two thirds of panel - ZERO hydrophobics, ZERO product left on panel. No Beading. No Sheeting. Water did not run off panel at all.
Plastic Trim: Nothing left. No hydrophobic activity. No beading. Nothing
 
To be clear, i know this is a spray product and not professional grade, but i also expected to get more than six weeks out of it. I live in the North East - so my goal i was hoping for was to at least get through the winter with hydrophobic activity etc, but with the way this has gone im guessing within 1-3 weeks or so that the Graphene spray will need to be, at the very least, reapplied. I want to like this product, the usability of it is phenomenal, but the durability, in this case is horrible!
 
Please feel free to ask any questions. Lets dissect this scenario and try to get to the bottom of it. My end goal is not to bash a companies products, i like the other Adams products i use which is why im at a loss here. So lets have at it, a candid, civil discussion and try to unravel whats going on so it doesnt occur to someone else; or if it does, have a possible solution to offer.

Yep, as Michael and Chris stated, you can re-use towels with Graphene Detail Spray without issue, as long as you wash and maintain the towels properly.

A little more in-depth for anyone curious...
 
Products that we DO NOT recommend re-using towels or applicators after application:
- Ceramic Paint Coating 50ml
- Ceramic Wheel Coating 50ml
- Ceramic Black Trim Restorer 50ml
- Graphene Ceramic Coating 60ml

The coatings above can and will harden into the towels and applicators, and you will be able to feel them become more coarse. They can absolutely scratch vehicles if you attempt to re-use them on paint. Once my suede towel/single soft/borderless gray/edgeless utility towel is used to remove one of the ceramic coatings above, I downgrade the towel to cleaning my garage floor, wiping up spills, etc. If you are very careful and fold the towels into fourths and only use certain sides, you MAY be able to use any unused "sides" of the towel on a second vehicle, but you always risk the chance of a hardened folded edge contacting the vehicle and scratching it, so it's usually not worth saving the $5-$10 or so to me to risk damaging a vehicle.

With our Ceramic Spray Coating, UV Ceramic Spray Coating, Ceramic Coating Wax, and Graphene Ceramic Spray Coating, I have not had issue re-using towels and applicators, provided that I soak them for a few hours after use in some Microfiber Revitalizer or Towel & Pad Revitalizer mixed into a bucket of water, and then wash them properly (as in how Chris linked the article above). The spray coatings do not seem to harden and crystallize into the towels and applicators as easily as the glass bottle coatings above.
 
Lastly, our Sio2 and graphene-oxide infused products are safe to re-use towels as well, but the towels can eventually become hydrophobic and repel liquids as Michael mentioned. These products include:
- Ceramic Boost
- Ceramic Liquid Wax
- Ceramic Waterless
- CS3
- Graphene Detail Spray

I hope that clears things up and makes it a little easier to understand 

I think it's similar to Ceramic Boost, not sure how that would work on wood. I can imagine it'll make it glossy, but it may also soak in like on matte stripes. Use at your own risk! Or use on the car instead.

Yes, any kind of microfiber towel with a tag hanging from it is usually cheaper, usually manufactured in China rather than Korea, and you absolutely want to remove that tag, since it can scratch paint very easily. These types of towels could be used for engine bay, inside door jambs, exhaust tips, etc, but I would not recommend them on paint. On most coating jobs that I do now, I use our Suede Towel for the initial wipe and leveling of the coating, and then I follow up with an Edgeless Utility Towel to remove the remainder of the coating residue. Both of these towels are fairly affordable when purchased in bigger quantities during a sale, and it is peace of mind for me that I am not potentially scratching the surface when wiping away the coating with a lesser quality towel.

With our spray coatings (Ceramic Spray Coating and Graphene Ceramic Spray Coating), in my experience, the towels do not typically crystallize and harden in the same manner as the full Graphene Ceramic Coating, UV Ceramic Paint Coating, and UV Ceramic Wheel Coating, so I have been able to re-use towels that I use with the SPRAY coatings, as long as I soak them shortly after use in some Revitalizer and then machine wash them. I do wash them separate from my other microfiber towels to avoid any possible contamination.

Towels that I use with the full coatings do harden - I did an unplanned test a few years back with a white Single Soft Towel that I used during application of our older Ceramic Paint Coating Kit on my car. Two days later I accidentally grabbed this towel off of my work bench and put a few nice 4" faint scratches in the hood of my car when using it with Ceramic Boost, which I then had to re-polish out. Since then, once I use a towel for a coating, I mark it with a sharpie as @falcaineer mentioned, so that I know not to use it on paint again.

Brilliant Glaze, hands down one of the best product hacks to date. Do not pass go, do not collect $200.
 
 
 

The current 16oz sprayers with the rotating head assembly and shorter pick up tube are due to a worldwide shortage on sprayers. We should eventually get back to the normal 16oz sprayers with the longer pick up tube and fixed sprayer head. It is a matter of that was all that we could source at the time.

Agreed. I don't use the ceramic sprayers enough, but the new sprayers have been really bad for me. I ordered sprayers from Adam's right when they swapped over to the new ones, and now I find myself re-using my old ones. The new ones just don't have much power and end up squirting out blanks when the product reaches below 25%. They also don't do well at an angle (facing down) probably due to the shorter straw.

Agreed. I don't use the ceramic sprayers enough, but the new sprayers have been really bad for me. I ordered sprayers from Adam's right when they swapped over to the new ones, and now I find myself re-using my old ones. The new ones just don't have much power and end up squirting out blanks when the product reaches below 25%. They also don't do well at an angle (facing down) probably due to the shorter straw.