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stang_krazy

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Everything posted by stang_krazy

  1. SO TRUE!!! You've seen a couple things I've done and know I feel the same way. I agree that one manufactures micro-fiber is not like all others but to that degree I too know that 90% of china's micro-fiber towles are junk. The adams towles could be 10x better but these aren't the junk microtex neither. Not saying in anyway that they are better then adams I haven't tried any to be honest but has long as I've been doing this it has worked great for me. The reason I use hot water is that I know that like anything else hot water will clean alot better then cold water when it comes to removing waxes-dirt grim and such and my opinion and my thoughts are that I want my micro-fiber to be completely clean and free of any contaminants that might me clinging to the knaps of the fiber.
  2. Just to add that I've always washed my micro-fiber towles in the washer in hot water and add about 12 to 16 ounces of distilled white vinegar and just recently started to add tide in with the vinegar and for them being this old man are they soft and fluffy And always put in the dryer for about 30 to 40 minutes on the timed dry and have never got any balling or anything. When dried and folded up they are still thick and plush. I couldn't even imagine how many times I've washed them over the years! There the old blue thick ones from wal-mart that I bought about 5 or 6 years ago in the 24 pack. Have been trying to find them again but no luck anywhere.
  3. Hey nick looks like you've done a very nice job with the detail buddy Can you catch your finger nail on any of the scratches?
  4. Just wondering about the after? Did anyone else purchase one and how did you like it? I've had the #1425 with the pro heat option and had some really good results. Droped it a couple times from high up and had to use duck tape for over a year on the hose, over time it finally took it's toll, will be getting another one though. Pretty cheap and portable great combo! Here's a couple before and after with my LGM #1425 w/pro heat And the after Could be dishonest and say that the LGM by itself did this but I did spray with purple power and scrubed then using my electric pressure washer and rinsed. Then used the LGM with the bissel formula and went over it twice if I remember right and on the passenger front area about four times but this was the out come. Like paint, I like a sun shot it tells all. Not perfect but alot better.
  5. Hey nick I know this is an old thread but why not work on it to try and get the paint as good as can be expected.Also you can consider this a learning experience/curve so when you get another DD you will know just what and how to accomplish it for a great detail, not to mention a better detailer! The first thing I do on something I'm unsure of is use my craftsman twin tripod halogen worklight to get the most light on the surface and check as good as possible ( I even use my brinkmann dual xenon light and my carson 10X lumiloupe to check on an area I may have questions about) Next after a complete wash or two I will then use a cleaner (swirl & haze remover with the orange pad) also in your post you never said how many applications you did with the SHR ( sometimes 1 application isn't enough it offten times takes 2 to 3 applications)also the most important step to any detail is the cleaning step, the more time you spend in this step will reflect your outcome IE:deepth of shine-clarity-reflectivity(on a darker paints)and something were all after that swirl free soaking wet look! Anyways after you've done your cleaning step, then go to your claying because if you just clayed first on such a neclected surface your going to be loading-up that piece of clay pretty fast and before you get half way through your piece of clay will be trash(no matter how many times you kneed it into itself and pick out all the trash out off it) And for this reason it's so important for this step in a neglected paint. Now you've removed all the above surface bonded contaminants you need to go after the contaminants thats in your paint so go back to your SHR and do another 2 or 3 applications, when you get this far you will see what I'm talking about.(Don't know if this is a Single stage paint on your S-10 but if it is you will be smiling pretty good now) Now let's bring some life back to that paint by applying some polish, (adams fine machine polish using the white pad) because overtime direct sunlight and the exposure to outdoor environments has takin away the resins (oils) from your paint and need to be replenished back into the pores of your paint to bring out the glossy and great reflectivity, More or less it's like lotion for your skin but it's polish for your paint just work it in and a healthier paint will appear! Now after all the hard work comes the time I look forward too! applying and locking in all that beauty, each person is different and what they like but to me there's nothing like applying 2 thin coats of a paste wax, sometimes when I feel energized I will apply a thin coat of a sealant and try to wait atleast 30 minutes or if I don't have to drive it or need it I will wait until the next day for the sealant to cure and then apply a thin coat of the paste wax and then wait at least an hour or so and apply another thin coat of paste wax. I know it's sometimes is a heated topic about layering but in MY OPINION more then 3 applications of any wax liquid or paste is it I see no change in the shine or gloss, but it all comes down to what looks good in your eyes because it's your paint and you know what looks good to your eyes. Anyway getting long winded sorry! but talk about a deep wet looking shine that will blow your mind, My mustang has/had the same problem with the bubbling on the back driver-side quarter for the last 10 years (garaged kept for at least 6-kids took over my garage! LOL) anyway I would use painters tape to tape off around that area since I tape off all trim and moldings anyway so my pc wouldn't hit it and I would do that area by hand very lightly. Hope I've been of some help:thumbsup:
  6. I know this is an older thread but thought I could help alittle more and alot safer way then using a brush on a cloth headliner.(which is never) I use a couple micro-fibers towels, spray one micro-fiber towel with a very mild interior cleaner (like adams carpet and upholstery cleaner) and don't over saturate it. Just use a couple sprays on the micro-fiber and do a section at a time, But remember don't get ahead of yourself doing to big of a section, because you have to use the other micro-fiber to gently rub off the excess dirt residue. Gently rub the liner with back and forth motion. Use the other micro-fiber to again gently go back over to get any remaining residue-loose dirt that's on the surface. If your not satisfied or getting the results your after sometimes a second or third application is often required,(like when working on your paint) just be sure to check and make sure it's not damp before applying your second application. Remember do not spray on the headliner itself or use any harsh cleaners! It could cause the glue to seperate from the backing panel and causing the cloth to start sagging.
  7. Hey John, I had a 78 just like that (well not nearly as nice as yours) man that was a nice TA. Does your have the 2:72.1? (If I remember right?) gear in it as well? At take off it seamed to take forever to reach 80 @ WOT but on top end it would run with the best of them. well what I'm I asking you that for, If it were mine I'd pamper it to!!! The only proof I had it though is a minute or so video on a vhs:( Anyway John you got a fantastic piece of history!!!!
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