Dan@Adams

Scratch & Swirl Remover is more aggressive than the orange Correcting Polish, and you can feel the slight grit to it in your fingers, so it may not always finish down as nice as the orange Correcting Polish. On the piano black plastic door pillars on my car, it left micro scratches in them that I then had to use the white Polish to remove them, so just keep that in mind. To me, the current blue Compound and blue foam pad would be a closer equivalent to the old orange/orange combo, but that is just my experience on the vehicles I've used it on. Then moving up to the Microfiber Cutting Pad or One Step Pad with the blue Compound definitely cuts more.

@ADG we started a Cyber Monday sale at midnight last night that still has a very nice discount (20% off) on most products on the website.* We added a few new items as well - some limited items, Drawstring Bag, Mouse Pad, restock on a few hats, and so on - that you can check out all of the new items here: https://adamspolishes.com/collections/new-just-in * Mystery items are not eligible for discounts.

Yep! Greg on our show team has that one too, and I think you're correct that a few were given out to close friends and testers when the staff was very small back then 👍

Hi JB, and welcome to the forum! I'll try to address all of your questions the best I can. 1. This can occur with our Graphene Ceramic Coating and UV Ceramic Paint Coating on darker colored vehicles from my experience; however I did have some of them on a red metallic Chevy SS I did a while back too (UV Paint Coating, not Graphene Ceramic Coating). The UV LED Light will make this much more visible shortly after application, but the lines usually show up if the coating was not wiped away thoroughly enough - usually they will show up in an overcast or cloudy sky and it will look perfect in the sunlight. Usually a few drops of white Polish or Brilliant Glaze will remove the shadows without too much struggle if you catch them within the first 12 hours or so after application. After 12 hours they might require more effort and/or machine polishing to correct. 2. Not necessarily. If the rainbow effect was dissipating after 60-90 seconds and the coating felt slightly tacky or had a small amount of tension when wiping with the towel, that is sufficient time to let it dry. Sometimes it takes 2-3 minutes in my garage, sometimes 60-90 seconds - it depends on temperature and humidity levels. 3. That is just about perfect with the overlapping to ensure even coverage. I do wipe the applicator in a nice slow movement with a slight bit of pressure since some of the coating absorbs into the applicator. 4. The lines to me seem more prevalent when I seem to apply the coating a little too thin in areas, so yes I do add a few more drops of coating to the applicator; however, the process that I do that seems to work best for me is as follows: I will put several drops of coating onto the applicator, then do an outline around the perimeter of a panel, without lifting the applicator from the surface. Oxygen makes the coating flash, so each time you lift and place the applicator down onto the surface, it will be heavier there (and this is where I will usually find high spots later). Once I have the outline done, I will do horizontal back and forth across the panel, again without lifting the applicator from the surface. The perimeter edge of the coating serves as a "pool" to pick up extra coating into the applicator to make the horizontal lines nice and even, overlapping each line as you said. Once the horizontal passes are done, then I will add more drops of coating into the applicator and then do vertical passes on the panel in the same manner, without lifting the applicator from the surface as I move it up and down. If you split a door or hood into two sections to reach, I will do one section and then immediately do the other section before wiping off the first section. If I don't do this, I can then see a visible vertical overlap line where two sections met, once I wipe away both sections. So this can then show up as a faint high-spot line that I will have to take care of later. 5. To prevent it from happening again, I feel also comes into how the coating is wiped away. Once the rainbow begins to fade, I take a clean Suede Towel folded into fourths, and I lightly wipe/smear the coating all in same direction - either left/right or up/down. This towel will remove about 50% of the coating with this light wipe. Then I'll let the coating tack up again for another 30 seconds or so, and then take my Single Soft/Borderless Gray/Edgeless Utility Towel to remove the remainder of the coating. I wipe multiple passes and multiple directions with this second towel, to make sure all residue is removed and I have far less high-spots afterward using that process. Also keep in mind that the UV LED Light shows EVERYTHING, and you don't want to chase having absolutely perfect coverage with the UV glow tracer. The UV glow will dissipate and look more even after a few hours. What I usually do is apply the coating, remove it, and then use the UV light afterward to do a spot inspection to see if I missed anywhere, otherwise you can spend double the amount of time trying to use the light while applying the coating. Sorry for the lengthy post, but hopefully that helps out! Please let us know if you have any other questions

I didn't see it mentioned, but when you washed, did you do just a hose and bucket wash? If yes, I would try a pressure washer with the appropriate nozzle tip, keeping the pressurized stream about 12-18" away from the paint. The pressure washer will hopefully remove some of the concrete dust build-up before you move onto a Clay Bar, Clay Mitt, Polish, or Brilliant Glaze. If you were on the other side of PA I would offer to help! Happy Thanksgiving!

I believe we did have detailing aprons several years back, but they did not sell very well. Then we had a few aprons from Cyclo that were sold as well. Adam is wearing a red one in this older video series, but I'm not sure if that design was ever offered for purchase: I did receive a prototype one a couple years ago to test out. It was made out of a super soft chenille-type of material, but it never materialized. I will mention it to the product development team again though!

Just wanted to add - that does look like excessive "rainbowing" from the coating, but if you wiped it off after 2-3 minutes, that should not have happened, as the spray coatings are much easier to work with than the full coatings in the glass bottle. A lot of modern headlights will appear to have this rainbow look at certain angles due to the type of plastic and clear coat used on them (and possibly from how they are polished), but not as excessive as your pictures, so this leads me to believe the coating may not have been wiped away fully. Do you see this on any other painted or glass areas of the vehicle? My 2006 GTO and my 2016 SS both have some appearance of rainbow to the headlight lens from the factory. You will see it even more if you look at them with polarized sunglasses or take a picture with a polarized lens on a camera.

Yes, they were copy-paste mistakes from the regular Hand Soap label. The scent for the Holiday Hand Soap is Sugar Cookie.

Just a quick update: I spoke to Phil and he's going to talk to our manufacturer to see if they would manufacture a coupler for us!

Looks great! Yes we're aware of the broken images. It's a certificate issue...working on it.

If you waited 4 minutes that should be more than enough time for it to flash onto the surface. Typically I will watch it rainbow, then once the rainbow begins to dissipate a little into a more clear look, then I wipe it away. I don't think you need to reorder more, I think you'll be totally fine as-is and then just maintain it once a month or so with your favorite ceramic maintenance product - mine are currently Graphene Detail Spray and CS3.

Sticky/tacky feeling during removal will depend on humidity too. If humidity is low, the Graphene Ceramic Coating can take a little longer to get tacky. It will have slight tension on your towel, nothing super tough though, as it was made to be easy to work with. I usually let it sit on the surface for 2-5 minutes, depending on temperature and humidity, and then remove it. Type of towel used for removal will also affect how tacky it feels. I use the Suede Towel to do an initial wipe and remove about 50% of the residue - this will have tension for me. Then I wait about 30 seconds and remove the rest with an Edgeless Utility or Single Soft - the second towel will glide much easier. With the UV flashlight, different colors will show up better than others. I usually wait to use the light until after I'm done coating everything. Then I drop the lights in my garage and go around with the UV flashlight to spot-check the vehicle. Looking at panels from different angles can also show the UV glow better, and brightness of the light may affect it too, make sure it has fresh batteries. But yes, it's much easier to see the UV tracer glow on a black vehicle than a white pearl for example in my experience.

My opinion, do NOT machine polish PPF, it's far too risky if you have never attempted it before. In addition to degrading the adhesive like Chris mentioned, you can cause an almost permanent hazy finish on some PPF that is then very difficult to fix - delicate and repeated massaging with Brilliant Glaze...ask @BRZN and I how we know from a car at Carlisle a few years back! If it were me, I would simply wash the PPF, maybe use Fine Grade Clay and Waterless Wash with very light to no pressure only in spots that have stubborn bug guts, then Surface Prep and finally coat.

Hi @aa146, and welcome to the forum! Our Iron Remover is a very strong chemical, so you do need to exercise caution when using it. I would recommend using it in the shade, and do not let it dry onto any surface. I try to avoid getting it on any exterior plastic trim pieces - it's mainly intended for removing iron contamination from painted surfaces. If the Iron Remover sits too long on some plastics, the plastic can discolor white almost like when getting wax residue onto plastic trim. You would then need to scrub it thoroughly with Tire & Rubber Cleaner to fix it. In other words, I try to wipe it off of plastics immediately with an old towel, while it is still working to dissolve iron particles on the paint. I don't see there being any issues on brushed aluminum. On raw polished mirror aluminum, it can leave a cloudy or hazy look, but brushed aluminum already has a slightly hazy look. I would recommend testing in a small area on the running board. If there are any problems on the running boards, Metal Polish #1 or Brilliant Glaze on the brushed aluminum should get it looking back to normal. Let us know if you have any other questions!

Nice wheels! Yep, you should be able to coat those no problem. I would do a test area on the inside barrel of one just to be sure. The coating will go on glossy, but once you wipe it away after a few minutes, it should leave the finish near identical to before the coating was applied.

I agree with Rich - our Graphene Ceramic Coating isn't going to repel dust or be completely anti-static, but it will provide excellent protection and gloss to the paint, glass, etc. To me, I'm not a chemist, but wiping a static-charged microfiber towel onto the surface of the vehicle sometimes seems to leave a charge on the surface that might attract more dust, so I hold two corners of the towel and give the towel a quick snap to try to discharge any static before use - you'll notice this most after pulling a clean towel out of the dryer. UV protection mostly comes from UV inhibitors in the clear coat of the vehicle, so applying protection on top of that allows the clear coat to last longer and do its job. A ceramic coating or graphene ceramic coating is going to provide much more protection than a sealant or wax, for a longer period of time, so it would be your best bet for UV protection. As far as application, you don't need a sterile clean room to apply, but an enclosed garage is strongly encouraged (required) to apply the full Graphene Ceramic Coating in the 60ml bottle. This is to ensure more even temperature and humidity during application, while being in the shade. Applying inside of a garage will also remove any moisture issues and allow the coating to cure properly. The Graphene Ceramic Spray Coating can be applied outdoors, since it only requires a 4-hour cure time, but we would still recommend to apply it in a garage if you can. I've applied in the 50-80F range, so 65F would be great (I did two vehicles this past week with Graphene Ceramic Spray Coating, in the evenings at 62F in my garage). If a slight amount of dust builds up during the 24-hour cure time, I simply use a little amount of Graphene Detail Spray and a Single Soft or Borderless Gray Towel to wipe off the vehicle after that first 24 hours. The vehicle can get wet after 24 hours, but we recommend that you do not wash the vehicle with any soap until 5-7 days after application. If you have not applied a ceramic coating before, don't be discouraged when you find high-spots, which are streaks or areas of the coating where you did not wipe it away fully. I like to coat a panel or half-panel at a time. Temperature and humidity will determine how long the coating needs to flash (rainbow) on the surface before being removed with two microfiber towels. Once the rainbow begins to fade, the coating usually has some tension or tacky feel on the surface, and this is when you want to wipe it off. I use one towel to spread and smear the coating, wiping away about 50% of it, then I use a second towel to wipe away the remainder on the panel. When I'm finished coating the vehicle, I like to briefly move the vehicle outside into the sun to spot-check it. If you catch the high-spots quickly enough, a drop or two extra of the Graphene Coating onto the applicator and then reapplying to the high-spot and immediately wiping it off should resolve the issue. If the high-spot has cured for a few hours, a few drops of Brilliant Glaze will usually remove the high-spot fairly easy. Once you've spot-checked the whole vehicle, move it back inside to cure for the remainder of the 24 hours 👍

Hi Bob, great question! Do you have a close-up picture of the wheels that you could share? You will be fine to coat the wheels as long as they are a smooth finish to the paint/powder coat, but keep in mind that it may very slightly change the color/richness of the finish. Make sure that you thoroughly wipe it off of the wheel surface after it flashes, just as you would do on paint, chrome, glass, etc. It should not give them any more shine though as long as you wipe away all of the coating residue. Lastly, make sure to have the tires mounted and balanced first if you plan on coating the inner barrel of the wheels, otherwise the wheel weights used for balancing can have difficulty sticking. We have seen where wheel weights will fall off if they are applied after a wheel has been ceramic coated.

Hi Jonathan! That's a cool idea for sure that I can pass along; however there could be some drop in airflow adding more length to the hose, and we would need to make sure any coupler is 100% sealed as well. I'll bring it up to the product development team as a recommendation, thanks!

A new winter washing video is in the final stages of editing too and will be coming soon!

Sounds good. Please remember to shake the bottle thoroughly too. Let us know if you see any improvement!

Pressure washing

We recently uploaded a new Winter Prep video onto our YouTube channel! It's an updated video for 2020, where Joe demonstrates how to keep your daily driver safe and protected for winter, using some of the newer products in our lineup. We hope you enjoy it! Make sure to subscribe to our channel and click on the bell to receive notifications on future videos.

Hi Brandon, I agree the way those dimensions are listed are a little confusing! What it means by Working Area is the physical amount of space it will take up when not folded. The standing/working platform is 38" long and 12" wide, but the legs angle outward to make the overall end-to-end footprint 50" long. With the legs extended and set up, the standing/working height is 20" tall.

Hi there, and welcome to the forum! It sounds like your prep work was spot on, and goes above and beyond what most would do, so I applaud you for that. My hunch for why you aren't seeing the proper longevity of the coating would be that it was wiped away too quickly after being applied to the surface, since you stated you allowed it to rainbow and then removed the residue. Our spray coatings will rainbow, or flash, almost immediately after hitting the surface as they are exposed to oxygen, in as little as 10 to 30 seconds sometimes; however I usually let the product set up for at least 2-3 minutes (sometimes more) before removal. Our spray coatings are more forgiving for application and removal compared to the full coating kits, so even if they stay on the surface for a few minutes, they will wipe away fairly easy. Allowing the spray coating residue to 'tack up' for a bit, usually until the rainbow begins to fade to a more clear hazy look, will cause your towel to have a slight amount of tension to it while wiping away the coating. This will ensure that it is better bonding to the surface. I will use one of our Suede Towels to spread/smear and level the coating, removing about 50-75% of the residue, then I'll let it sit for another 30 seconds or so, and then I'll take a second clean plush towel (Borderless Gray, Edgeless Utility, or Single Soft) to remove the remaining coating residue. Using this method, and maintaining with Ceramic Boost, CS3, or Graphene Detail Spray, I usually see around 4-6 months of protection on my daily driver with our spray coatings, which is exposed to all sorts of harsh driving environments - heavy rain, high humidity and pollen during hot summers, salt/ash/snow slush, etc. I would recommend to try re-application in a test area. I would do a wash with our standard blue Car Shampoo, rinse thoroughly, dry, and then do your IPA wipe-down (or Surface Prep). Very thoroughly shake the Graphene Ceramic Spray Coating bottle first to mix all chemicals, then spray into a Microfiber Applicator Block or onto the surface directly - I like to spray into an applicator to avoid over spray onto other areas of the vehicle - then apply and remove as described above. If applying a second coat, we recommend waiting at least 1-2 hours before applying the second coat. Joe explains the flashing and wait time at around the 4:22 mark in the video below:

@07stanggt I replied to your PM. Sorry for the delay!