Dan@Adams

Correct, but if the Detail Spray is sitting on the wheel in the hot sun during washing, you will want to wash it off more quickly. Detail Spray is intended to be a product that is sprayed onto a surface and wiped off immediately with a microfiber towel, but the reason Adam mentions to spray it onto the wheels in this case is to help prevent hard water on the wheels from creating water spots while washing the rest of the vehicle. For me, I wash the wheels in the same manner that he does in the video, rinse, and then I immediately foam down the vehicle including the wheels, so that our pH neutral soap sits on the wheels during the wash. In other words, I do not do the Detail Spray step. I do however use Detail Spray or CS3 at the end of the wash process as a drying aid, as he also demonstrates in that video 👍

Hi Eric, great question! I suspect that some of the video may have been edited out there for time. To clear up any confusion, if you use Detail Spray on the wheels and you move immediately onto washing the rest of the vehicle, you could leave the Detail Spray on them to help minimize water-spotting while washing the other body panels; however, you will want to rinse it off thoroughly just like you would rinse the soap. You do not want the Detail Spray to air dry onto the wheels, as it will dry with a smeared, cloudy appearance. If you do not move immediately onto washing the rest of the vehicle after spraying down the wheels, you would want to wipe them dry with a plush towel like a Borderless Gray or Single Soft, so that the Detail Spray does not dry smeared onto the surface, especially if you're working in the sun. Let us know if you have any other questions!

We just added this one to the website a little while ago and it's selling super fast. Only about 200 bottles remaining as I'm typing this! Some shirt sizes and stickers have already sold out CLICK HERE TO SHOP NOW!

Any updates on how it turned out @liquidred? Were you able to fix the streaking? As mentioned, I usually try Graphene Ceramic Spray Coating or Brilliant Glaze first. Apply either one and then wipe away immediately with a plush towel. If the coating has cured enough that those do not remove the streaking, then I will move up to our white Polish with a Blue Hex Grip Applicator and gently polish the area. If that does not remove the streaking, then I will try our blue Compound with a Blue Hex Grip Applicator. If none of those options work, you would need to machine polish the area, then prep and reapply the coating in that spot.

Hi Greg, We are very sorry for the frustrations with your two vehicles; however Adam's Underground is an independent business and separate entity from Adam's Polishes. They are an authorized dealer of our products, but resolution of any service issues would need to go through them and not us. Any warranty programs would be through them as well. I've forwarded your messages over to our wholesale team for them to provide to the dealer, and again we do apologize for the inconvenience. Respectfully, Dan@Adams

Yep, I got about $12k off of msrp on mine, which was how I could afford it!

Yep, I'm south of Pittsburgh.

Yep! I thought about getting that color but I didn't have much choice - I got mine on the last day they offered 20% off back in 2016 and there was only one in a 50 mile radius of me

Yes, any kind of microfiber towel with a tag hanging from it is usually cheaper, usually manufactured in China rather than Korea, and you absolutely want to remove that tag, since it can scratch paint very easily. These types of towels could be used for engine bay, inside door jambs, exhaust tips, etc, but I would not recommend them on paint. On most coating jobs that I do now, I use our Suede Towel for the initial wipe and leveling of the coating, and then I follow up with an Edgeless Utility Towel to remove the remainder of the coating residue. Both of these towels are fairly affordable when purchased in bigger quantities during a sale, and it is peace of mind for me that I am not potentially scratching the surface when wiping away the coating with a lesser quality towel. With our spray coatings (Ceramic Spray Coating and Graphene Ceramic Spray Coating), in my experience, the towels do not typically crystallize and harden in the same manner as the full Graphene Ceramic Coating, UV Ceramic Paint Coating, and UV Ceramic Wheel Coating, so I have been able to re-use towels that I use with the SPRAY coatings, as long as I soak them shortly after use in some Revitalizer and then machine wash them. I do wash them separate from my other microfiber towels to avoid any possible contamination. Towels that I use with the full coatings do harden - I did an unplanned test a few years back with a white Single Soft Towel that I used during application of our older Ceramic Paint Coating Kit on my car. Two days later I accidentally grabbed this towel off of my work bench and put a few nice 4" faint scratches in the hood of my car when using it with Ceramic Boost, which I then had to re-polish out. Since then, once I use a towel for a coating, I mark it with a sharpie as @falcaineer mentioned, so that I know not to use it on paint again.

Glad to hear the application process went well for you - I was a little worried when I read your thread title 😅 What color SS do you have? I have a '16 Slipstream Blue - one of the best vehicles I've ever driven!

Very cool! Thank you for joining our forum! Do you have any pictures of them you could share?

Hi @Bode04! Thank you for your business, and welcome to the forum! Moving this thread to the appropriate section, hope you don't mind. You can absolutely use Ceramic Boost as a maintenance spray on top of our Ceramic Paste Wax. It's intended exactly for that, to serve as a maintenance product for ceramic coatings and ceramic-infused products like Ceramic Paste Wax, but it can also be used standalone on non-coated vehicles too. On darker colors especially, make sure to shake up the bottle thoroughly, and spray the product sparingly - two or three mists is usually enough for a door panel for example. I would also recommend using two microfiber towels when applying it - one plush microfiber towel to spread the Ceramic Boost evenly across a panel, and then a second plush microfiber towel to remove the remaining residue. If you spray too much or do not wipe it away thoroughly, it can streak some due to the Sio2 content in it. Working in the shade with body panels cool to the touch will also make the application process of Ceramic Boost go more smoothly! Let us know if you have any other questions!

@GerryC any ideas here about the missing icons?

The other option is that we could go back to not publishing the scents at all like we used to do and make everyone guess 😉

Everything sold out within about 28 minutes. 600 shirts and 200 extra bottles of the Detail Spray, so 800 bottles total. I knew this one was going to go fast!

UPDATE: SOLD OUT! Thank you for your business everyone! Launching today at 10AM MST! This one will most likely sell out very fast! Each flannel comes with a bottle of the limited Detail Spray, plus we have 200 extra bottles of the Detail Spray available separately, again starting today at 10AM MST (Noon EST). Check out the previews at the link below: https://adamspolishes.com/collections/new-just-in

Send me a PM and I'll get some warranty sprayers out to you!

Hi @Bostonstang and welcome to the forum! Your best bet would be to wash the area thoroughly, clay to remove any contamination in the scuff, and then machine polish. Since those scuffs look a little deep, you will want to start with a Microfiber Cutting Pad and our blue Compound, machine speed set to 5 or 6 on the Swirl Killer 15MM Polisher, or speed 4-5 on the Swirl Killer Mini Polisher. Make 3 left-right and 3 up-down passes over the area, using a little bit of pressure, but not enough to stall the pad oscillations. Wipe away the Compound residue and inspect the surface. It should be improved, but like Brian mentioned, if you can feel the scuffs with your fingernail, they will not come out all the way. You should be able to greatly reduce them though. Monitor the paint that it doesn't feel too hot, and then you can do another set of passes to see if it improves more. Then you would want to switch to the White Foam Pad and white Polish to remove any hazing that the Compound may have left and to bring out the most gloss possible. Once you're done with the polishing stage, you can then put on your favorite protection - Paint Sealant, Buttery Wax, Ceramic Spray Coating, etc!

Tom, if the Microfiber/Blue Pad isn't cutting enough, try the One Step Pad with Compound. It will be a more aggressive cut and will generate heat more quickly, so be aware of your panel temperature so that it does not get too hot. Work in a smaller area (1-foot by 1-foot) with a very slow, even arm movement, with slight downward pressure, speed 5 or 6 on the Swirl Killer 15MM, or 4-5 on the Swirl Killer Mini or Swirl Killer Pro (I'm not sure what type of machine you are using). What kind of vehicle are you working on? How old is it and does it still have original paint? Using an acid wheel cleaner on paint, even diluted, can potentially be dangerous, and I would not recommend it. If you have not wet sanded before, I would strongly suggest getting a test panel from a junkyard and practicing on it first, if you have to go that route. You need to be very careful heating or warming up the paint too much with an outside source like a heat gun. Heat can equal clear coat strike-through, which is why we recommend random orbital polishers rather than rotary buffers for the majority of our customers. The polisher and pad combo can get the paint pretty warm by themselves. Adding another heat source could potentially be a very bad idea, especially if it's an older vehicle and you have not tried this before. At the 4:42 mark in the video he even mentions that since the trunk is being replaced, he doesn't have to worry about issues with blowing through the clear coat. It's certainly a good technique, but one needs to be careful attempting something like this. Also keep in mind that the trunk panel he was working on in the video was a repaint from a wreck, so the clear coat on it could react and behave differently than the rest of the vehicle. Some repaints I've worked on have extremely hard clear coats, and some are butter soft. Most BMW's and other European vehicles typically have medium to hard clear coats, so usually they can take a little more heat, but something with more soft paint could have bad results if the paint gets too hot.

Jon, if you're done with Ceramic Boost, I would recommend to try Graphene Detail Spray or CS3 for maintenance. Use either one sparingly - a few light mists, panel by panel.

Yep, what Chris said ^^^ Wash the area or panel first to ensure it is free of all dust or dirt. Use a soap with no shine or protective additives - blue Car Shampoo or Mega Foam would be my recommendations. Is the stain on the Corvette or the Equinox? At 3-4 months of application, it may still be very durable on the Corvette since you seldom drive it, but it is most likely wearing away some on the Equinox since it is driven more often. Polishing through the coating may not be too difficult on either. If you have our old Orange Foam Pad and orange Correcting Polish or the even older Swirl & Haze Remover, that combo would remove it. The white finishing Polish and White Foam Pad may not be aggressive enough. The new blue Compound and a Blue Foam Pad would certainly remove it, and if you're trying to remove a stain underneath, that is probably what I would start with, then move down to the White Foam Pad and Polish. Wipe away the area, Surface Prep, inspect, and make sure it's where you want it to be at before reapplying the coating. Once you polish the area, if you can snap some pictures of the stain and post them here, we can better assess how to tackle it 👍

What I highlighted in bold could also potentially be a large factor in the coating bonding and curing properly. We strongly suggest applying ceramic coatings indoors in a garage, where temperature, humidity, and moisture can be controlled better. Those all play a factor in how a coating flashes, bonds, and cures. Your water beads in the last picture look pretty good to me! Keep in mind that yes, the Graphene Ceramic Coating will have a higher contact angle, but that does not necessarily mean that every water bead will fall off of the vehicle, especially if there is dust or dirt on the surface that will then make the water bead cling more.

@07stanggt are you having issues with our first 8oz/12oz sprayer design - the all black sprayer with the left-right locking tab? Or are the problems with the current 8oz/12oz sprayer with the removable red plastic circle trigger lock? The current ones with the red plastic trigger lock have been working much better for me. Ceramic Spray Coating and Graphene Ceramic Spray Coating will crystallize at the end of the spray nozzle after use, so I usually take my fingernail or a needle to break away the hardened ceramic and then they will work fine for me again. Just make sure not to try to pull the spray trigger before cleaning off the end of the sprayer, otherwise it will build up pressure and can leak or potentially cause the sprayer to fail.

The current 16oz sprayers with the rotating head assembly and shorter pick up tube are due to a worldwide shortage on sprayers. We should eventually get back to the normal 16oz sprayers with the longer pick up tube and fixed sprayer head. It is a matter of that was all that we could source at the time.

That's definitely the one in the picture with some editing to the photo most likely to bring out the color and shadowing more. If you notice, the sleeves are light tan. I still think it looks great 👍