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Fit08

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About Fit08

  • Birthday 03/26/1964

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  • Location
    Southern Ontario
  • Vehicle Year
    2008
  • Vehicle Make
    Honda
  • Vehicle Model
    Fit
  • Real Name
    Ralph

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  1. Im finding a towel with a gram weight of 300-400 low nap is great for removal and even buffing afterwards. Going to try this with the 60ml bottle, as I found trying to establish a removal time with this product is much harder then spray.
  2. Looking awesome! Its to bad that photos can never replace a in the person view truly as I bet that color you need sunglasses as it would be awesome!!
  3. Just had a thought, while I don't think it holds water here it goes. This particular car even after a good clay ( another post , stubborn contaminates) had mega bumps under the baggie test, but yet some to hand touch and also while claying very smooth with no sighs or sounds of contaminates present. So was wondering if that would cause "balling/gummy" polish being spit out. Here is were it falls apart, FP and AIO polishes did not do this...
  4. So, I have a yet another white car lmao. Anyhow, I clayed even though it was very smooth to the touch and the clay was gliding very well. Visco (most aggressive, no?) clay by the way. Here's were it gets interesting, I decided to do a baggie test, and I was NOT prepared for what I was about to experience. The surfaces were rough as 80 grit sand paper!! WTF I said, wow. So, visco was having a very hard time but was making some progress in small foot by foot area, I wanted to try the Adams medium grade clay, but have none. I moved on. So, I'm thinking tree sap. would going to a clay pad on a dual action be in order to speed up and get more "bit" to remove? Just thought, what about microfiber pad and compound to help smooth out surface? Have any thoughts here?
  5. Hello Ray, Ok, sounds like I need to pay attention to what exactly is going on with the weather and all those variable's such as temp, sun duration, days left unattended after rain. So far I've been ok, but waiting for the spots to strike on a ceramic original (spray) coated car. As they are all white this helps and hurts me all at the same time, lmao. My wife's car ml graphene coated, is burnt orange and tells a better story on polish technique and what is going on with the paint.
  6. What are those of you seeing/doing when it rains on your DD when its ceramic coated. Its rained, its been sunny and hot, do you need to jump into full wash mode right away OR can you wait 2-3 days and use just CS3 or detail spray (appropriate one for coating, Graphene or normal). What's real world experience showing us? Taking away location factors and the variables somewhat, just general rule of thumb? Notice, I've not included hard tap water issues such as sprinklers or washing as I would hope we have "controlled" that. If you did however get caught in sprinkler shower I would its best to do right away (as soon as you are aware)?
  7. So, our coating now needs some love. what do we do... Like all wash routines you go through the usual steps. With a coating this is where my question begins, surface contaminate removal. Highly recommended NO CLAYING!! SO this leaves us with chemical decontamination, iron remover and a APC wash both of which are in the Adams line. My thoughts, Hoping because of coating the contaminates have not bonded to surface thus requiring mechanical removal (clay) thus starting a whole new set of processes. Process thoughts: Graphene coating use in this example: - out of sun, cool paint temp -spray car down, get a lot of dirt off if present -iron remover let dwell -foam gun with APC dilution or maybe (strip wash ??) as strip will not remove coating nor will APC. Dwell -rinse -blow dry if possible -GCS3 or G detail spray buff. This has always made wonder, we use blower for less paint contact, then come back over with many contacts with our sprays. Yes the have lube agents but... mileage may vary and so with scratches i can only assume. Here is the thing, maybe overthinking to anal for a daily driver? But may thought we are here in the first place because we enjoy the BEST possible results for the time we put into the processes, no?? Thoughts? A few spin off topics here lmao...
  8. Hmmm, maybe this the answer to my post on "Grabby towel with boost"
  9. I hear you on the white as the car I was on was white. I didn't use the compound long enough to notice residue issue at this time. Removal of residue in the area I did do seemed normal. What level of correction were you guys after, enhancement or little more, but not perfection as DD? Yes white is a treat eh, but also nice as it can hide more to a degree verse dark colors I feel.
  10. So, how many pads are you using to correct a vehicle ranging from small, medium, large ? Are you using one pad per panel or two panels before switching it out? OR just one with cleaning brush and possibly compressed air to clean spent polish and residue then go again.
  11. Was wondering what the proper way is to removal H2o guard and gloss and paint sealant for polishing. Is the process the same for a new applied coat verses months old coat? I was thinking strip wash put on by foam cannon and apc or strip wash in a bucket would not be enough for a fresh coat? thoughts?
  12. That color is going to be stellar when your done! Hope you have sun glasses, lol. I liked the like the looks of my vehicles with coatings both spray and 60ml bottle and graphene and just ceramic. You should be very impressed I would think.
  13. A car with 60 ml graphene did a cs3 wipe as it has dust and light dirt had sat out side so it seen dew and some light rain. Used blue waffle weave seemed good. Tried to use boost 2 (small white bottle from kit) the towel was draggy/grabby no slickness at all. Not a new towel but washed with MFR and such as per towel upkeep. Finally just use graphene detail spray and another borderless grey towel, better but not super slick I don't think. Have not gone out into the sun to see what the real truth is as to how it went as far as streaks/scratches or any of that yet.
  14. Tried the blue foam pad and compound and used four pea size drop, two detail spray shots and area of 3 by 3. Went ok. Next area, two shots of detail spray and one pea size drop. Gumming up, balls being spit out onto paint as I worked it. In Garage, temp 70/72, humidity unknown. Initial thought, too much product but I then tried with hits of detail spray reactivating polish in pad and same deal. Car was washed, decon, clayed all the usual items.
  15. So, since graphene/ceramic has the market on a rage it leaves me wondering why the "water spotting" issue has been heighten. Water spots and etching are not new they have always been an enemy of a cars finish as are bird dropping. so, the quest begins to ease ones mind as to why coatings seem to more prone to these issues. First thought, many more "droplets of water" beads as we call them. We now then have raised the chances of spotting due to the sheer number "increasing the chances". Second thought, both ceramic and graphene change the contact of these beads graphene even a grater angel. I wonder if this increased angle in angle when beads are boiled off (sun) the chemicals, calcium and such left behind are more concentrated it etches or marks quicker? Or, maybe this small droplet size combined with contact angle creates more concentrated heat thus more chance of spots? While this gets into a chemists wheel house I'm sure, I think its a good topic to explore.
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