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mikeg6045

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Everything posted by mikeg6045

  1. adding any protection to the paint is considered "sealing". it's based on the idea that you are "sealing" up your results with a thin, sacrificial, water and UV proof coating. Whether that be with a natural wax or thin synthetic coating. Since there is no universal standards when it comes to naming types of products in detailing, things can get confusing, but if you go to the root of the word and use common sense you can likely figure it out. Kind of like polish or wax. some company's define these two as the same, different or use them interchangably. Same thing with "glaze", that can be defines as a non abrasive product, or an abrasive product. some are meant to clean paint, some are just a thin barrier of protection for paint that has yet to cure. Your best bet is to ask the manufacturer.
  2. you probably dont want to use the glaze after sealing or waxing right away. as the glaze has a high solvent content which has the effect of cleaning off whatever is on the paint. it may not strip the sealant (it will probably strip wax though) but I would imagine it will put a dent in it.
  3. definitely better then the white towels, mainly because they dont lint fibers all over the place.
  4. Corrected. lol Its not like the sealant is going to slip off the paint and wind up on the garage floor if not.
  5. The safest way to dry is with compressed air. Metro master blaster. the next safest method is to blot dry. After that is to use a high quality towel with a lubricant. And at the bottom of the list is the absorber towel, shammy, or bath towel.
  6. I think Adams pricing is pretty good. Again your not being forced to buy anything. Take a look at the pricing for the Pinnacle brand on AG. Just check how much a gallon of the crystal mist quick detailer is as well as every product in the line, then check adams prices. I have no problem speaking my mind on stuff. The only product that I though the pricing was out of this world on was the double soft towels. They can be had for half the price all over the internet. That did not sit well with me. But now with the blue and gray towels the price is right in line with everyone else.
  7. For one, the new blue and gray towels dont LINT ! The double and single soft towels (especially double softs) lint like crazy. If you have a black car like myself, the double soft towels are pretty useless IMO. The nap on the new towels is much much better. they are more absorbent and again DO NOT LINT. I think adams should just switch out to the blue towels for good. I will give them credit, the edgless design and cut of the towels is far superior to what other webstores are offering. If you want excellent towels you cant beat Adams. Its also really nice that they go through the time to check quality control on the towels before shipping them to customers. Most edgless design towels have a harsh lazer cut edge and are not cut in perfect squares. with the blue adams towels you wont find any of that. I shop all over the internet and the truth is if you want high quality MF that are looked over before being shipped you cant beat Adams. You will have to pay to play, but some people are ok with that when it comes to towels that they will rub all over their paint. I cant tell you how many times I have ordered towels from other stores only to find the nap to be different from batch to batch as well as the thickness. I have also ordered the double soft towels from other vendors only to find the stitching to be missed on some sections of the towels.
  8. too funny that adams says NOT to use this product diluted as clay lube.... every other rinseless wash on the market offers this versatility. Is any reasoning offered as to why NOT to use it ? It cant be because of the protective qualitys, as the detail spray now has wax boosters in it. i was really liking the release of this product until hearing this. I guess Adams wants everyone to keep using the detail spray as a lubricant to keep sales up. Please correct me if i'm wrong. I hope its not because of the "complication" of having mutiple dilution ratios. That would be an insult to the customers intelligence as even my 7 year old neice can can be taught how to dilute a product at 3rd grade math levels. other than that, I ordered this new product to try out as I have been impressed with the new formula spray detailer on my black car. its a fantastic new product and has peaked my interest in trying some of adams other new products.
  9. this is actually true. There was a thread on another forum with information from a chemist from PPG discussing the ceramiclear. Theres only a certain amount of the ceramiclear and you could compound through it, leaving the paint without the original properties it was designed for. It was tough to read because I know so many detailers have hammered away on audi's, bmw's and merc's without fully understanding this. Its not so much whether a polish is designed for ceramiclear. The bigger issue is that the OEM's are not taking into account for paint correction over the service life of the vehicle. All they care about is laying the thinnest amount of paint on the car and having it look perfect for inspection upon leaving the factory. They dont leave enough clear for correction as is, and the ceramiclear chemistry throws another monkey wrench into this equation.
  10. pardon the recommendation of another companys product, but since even adams use's Clay magic clay, I would highly recommend the RED aggressive claybar for the paint if the fine gray bar is not working fast enough. removing overspray is going to cause marring no matter which grade of bar is used. I'm sure adams fine polish will easily remove it anyway. Also , adams recommends thinner, something safer is a product called "body Solvent" by a well known company you could probably google. You could probaby get it done with some other products, but like you I have had to deal with this same issue all over a car. paint , plastic, glass, rubber, just about every surface. and I found a combo of both of these products along with half decent technique to do the job swiftly. Ideally you will want to machine polish the car afterwards either way. also, claybar works great on plastic and even hard rubber trim. basically try using it everywhere.
  11. There is a reason 99% of leather or interior cleaners are either PH nuetral or slightly alkaline (PH9). That reason is to not overly dryout materials. Sprayers fail on acid based products because they are doing just that to them. drying them out and making them seize up and fail. Keep in mind a lot of the interior panels are made up of a similar type of plastic material that a sprayer is made out of. My only advice if using this product would be to be very sure to rinseoff the interior with water and a damp rag so the product does not sit and dry on its own on leather or plastic. Because it if drys out a plastic sprayer, you can bet it will do the same to plastic interiors if not rinsed off.
  12. I used a PH Nuetral Leather cleaner to clean the stitching. Its a competing product so i prefer not to mention it on the forum. You need to be careful around stitching and use a very mild product (PH7) as it can break down and fray very easily from any potent cleaner. The stitching is the only unprotected part of leather seats and it should be treated with care.
  13. sorry for the delay. Its an audi. black leather with white stitching. The stitching will clean off if a cleaner is used and the residue will wipe away. The leather is NOT bleeding dye as I use white MF towels for the interior. and everything in the interior has been color-fast with no bleeding issues. Adams leather conditoner is one of the best products I have used for finished leather. I just wish the conditioner was white and would not leave its coloring behind. For an easy way to see what i'm talking about, try putting the leather conditioner onto your white doublesoft towel border. The border will turn the color of the conditioner. It will clean off if you wash it, but it still turns tan. Is the conditioner originally white and colored tan for marketing ? Its easy to understand why it would be tan. It helps tell what the product is, and it also has a leather color and scent. Completely understandable, i'm just trying to explain where this is a issue for white stitching. anyone else have an audi with white stitching on this forum and know what i'm talking about ??
  14. Well then a chemical proof sprayer should be used for this product. I did not realize this product would be "very acidic". No wonder it is so potent and effective and diluting is recommended. What PH did you come up with on your test ? I'm not a fan of using a product that strays far away from a neutral PH on fine leather. You never know when you can run into dyed leather or non-caoted leather. While a neutral ph is not completely necessary, the vinyl coating on car leather is durable but it can take a hit over time if you are either very abrasive during cleaning or use a product that is overly aggressive. IME, most APC's that can be used on leather or interior cleaners are usually more on the Alkaline side rather than acidic. With something along the lines of a PH of 9 (slightly alkaline but usually very safe even on delicate leather). I'm actually surprised that this product is highly acidic based on reading the description on the webstore. Especially that its strong enough to ruin a sprayer in short time. not a fan, and I thank you for going out of your way to do the PH test.
  15. Got a new car with white stitching around black leather. Now I know why 98% of all leather conditioners have no coloring in them and are white lotions or sprays. Adams Leather Conditioner leaves coloring residue on white stitching and makes it the same beige as the coloring in the Leather Conditioner. The only way to remove the product coloring was to clean the stitching which is something you have to be careful doing. Since realizing this issue, I noticed that in my Audi with red stitching the Leather Conditioner is also darkening the red stitching. On leather the product works fine without any leftover coloring, but maybe its because the stitching is made of unprotected cloth that the residue is leftover. I had to order a different Leather conditioner in the meantime that is a white lotion. Anyone else have this issue ? Why is the leather conditioner beige anyway ? Does this serve any purpose ?
  16. did you oil up the backing plate before using it ? you are supposed to line the felt with air tool oil before its first use. Its well known with all FLEX customers.
  17. correct, it has now changed for a 3rd time if i'm correct. the now 3rd scent is much better imo. I compared two gallons side by side. (i never had the old coconut scent that turned gray)
  18. Dylan, did you guys change the waterless wash recently ? it seems to have a better scent to it.
  19. any pics ? ive had wheels that got clearcoat damage and the brake dust makes it way underneath the clear in the corners and edges. and basically nothing short of a new finish will solve it. Sounds like what your describing. For some reason most manufacturers clearcoat process when doing wheels is not up to par with there paintjob clearcoat's on the cars. I guess the quality control checks are too a much lower standard. German cars have a horrible reputation for clearcoat problems on wheels. yet there paintjob/clearcoat on the cars are superior to the rest of the world.
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