musclejunkie

Been off the forum a while but just scored another Mustang. My third after a 2011 Petty Blue 3.0 , a ‘14 white GT and this one a gorgeous 2008 GT Premium Grabber Orange. It has the $900 polished aluminum wheel option. Two owner car and low mileage original factory paint looks like new. The inside wheels are coated thick with black brake dust. I haven’t tried the Adams wheel cleaner yet but I don’t think it will touch it. 12 years of caked on grime. Any suggestions Adams guys? I’m a perfectionist detailer just like Adam.

I bought this a year ago and never used it till today. I did a Michigan January Thaw wash today and used the product while drying my 2014 Mustang GT. Oh my oh my! My car never shined this well even after a complete detail!!!! This is going into my wash process for sure!

I love Adams Waterless Wash! I use it after rain to prevent water spots. The ww towels are magic.

Started my Spring Detail today. I didn't care for the new Adams Clay system, so I bought some cheap other brand. You know the type that comes in a box with Detail spray, Chinese Microsoft towel and two yellow clay bars. So, I started with Adams Strip Wash throgh a foam gun and bucket. Let it soak for 5 minutes, stubbed it off then rinsed and dried with Adams Detail spray. I can't believe how well it worked. I Machine Sealant my car last fall and the Wash solution turned grey!! Whammy a great strip wash product!! Next, I broke out the cheaply boxed clay system doing hood roof and trunk. The Detail Spray was mainly water and not very slippery. The microfiber towelette a joke. I did the baggie test and paint was still rougher than a night in a New Orleans Strip Club. I re boxed the kit and broke out the old Adams Grey Clay bar using it without the impression tool. And of course Adams Detail Spray. A real relief and "Ah ha!" moment. My car is as smooth as glass after the baggie test. Those cheap boxed clay systems are a joke! Learned my lesson. Going to follow with white Adams Polish, Adams Glaze, and Machine liquid Sealant.

WELL, SHAME SHAME SHAME ON ME!!!!! You're right! Should have asked the painter! Should I go to the corner of the detail classroom? haha! I called them this morning and they put a light coat of wax on it already. So, I guess I should not have asked the question, sorry. I was so excited to get my car back, it slipped my feeble mind. They did an AWESOME JOB!!! Not cheap, but man worth every penny. Car is in better shape than many of the new ones I've seen with horrid hood, fender and front fascia alignments. I'm going to try Dr. Colorchip on my rocker panels that are dinged up, then cover with 3M paint guard. Really, really, really horrid design by FMC. Shame on them! Rockers should be chrome like the old days. Not, non-durable painted plastic. Geesh! Maybe I'll splurge for carbon fiber black ones. But man, those are mega-bucks! Going to do a whole body correction this weekend. I pulled off the stripes couple weeks ago. I like it it a lot better without the racing stripes. Cleaner look. For my "process" I'm going with strip wash, non-Adams brand Clay bar with Adam's Detail Spray lube, Adams two correction polishes followed by glaze, sealant and then the new Buttery. IT'S DETAIL TIME!!!

I just picked up my '14 White Mustang from the paint shop. New front bumper and paint. Looks like a mirror. I want to protect it from bugs. Do I wait 30 days or so? Or can I use wax now? It doesnt need a correction.

Hey thanks a lot gents! Some great ideas. I'll give it a go with the foam / strip wash and let it sit for a spell before rinsing. And will note the water beading before I proceed with clay. Thanks again!

Bought a white '14 Mustang GT last fall. Body and paint pretty decent shape but had really cheap dual 8" Lemans striping on it. Well, I'm always up for a good challenge, so I had at it last weekend. My "system" involved simply removing them in the warm sun. Tried a hair dryer which really was useless and after one try hung up that idea. Took my time and they came off in one piece with most of the adhesive. Cleaned it up with a little auto gogone, followed by Adams waterless wash on a good terry cloth towel. Where the stripe edge was there was a fine line ridge of wax gunk that I removed rather easily with an alcohol swab. It is clear to me the previous owner never strip washed between waxes, so I have a pretty thick layer of wax that needs to come off. Will Adams strip wash cut through the layers of old wax, or should I start with that and follow with an alcohol bath on painted surfaces only then another strip wash and then clay? Going to be fun doing a complete correction on this car using Adams products. I need the rocker panels painted along with front bumper. After she's done I'll post some pics. Not going to re-stripe it but may put a small black tornado graphic on her. It's an Alabama car.

Just remember that glaze has solvent in it and will degrade any wax or sealant protection you put on beforehand. So, I would use the glaze before any wax or sealant. The Brilliant glaze is a superb product and hides the smallest paint imperfections after you do a paint correction. Also remember that wax and sealant are only protectives. The mirror shine comes from eliminating swirls. Wax and Sealant do not improve the gloss achieved in a good paint correction followed by Brilliant Glaze.

I have two of them, one new and one 5 years old. What I like best is that one towel will dry my car and leaves no water whatsoever. I also found a great use for the older towel. I used it to go over my fabric upholstry after hitting it with Adam's Upholstry and Carpet Cleaner, another great product! The towel wicked up the dirt exceptionally well in a car that I use hauling my four legged freind around.

Agree. I normally only use Adam's car shampoo and only pull out the wheel cleaner if and when they get really crusty. Just can't get past the smell. Maybe if I hold my breath, might be tolerable.

To be honest, I'm not a fanboy. First product I actually dread using. I wish Adam would back his old wheel cleaner. If it smells this bad it can't be good for your wheels clear coat. I'll use up the rest of it and have to find another cleaner. There is one on the market I do like currently that smells ok and works fine for clear coat wheels.

No wonder I love this stuff! I ALWAYS mist my car before I dry it. I didn't know it contained any wax. All I did know is that it preserved my Sealant for months.

LOVE this product! My tires never looked better, cleaner and blacker! I have new Continental performance rubber on my Mustang. Did all four tires before rinse and perfection achieved. These new tires are super soft and grip the road like glue. I don't even use VRT or Tire Shine. They look that good!

OK, getting old and feeble. Cat = Car.

Two new favorites and one rediscovered Wash and Wax - No harm in adding protection while you wash - right? Tire and Rubber Cleaner - Wow! I learned a little secret to share...leave it on till all tires are cleaned, then rinse off. I don't even use tire shine or VRT now. This product is amazing and leaves my tires matte black. Buttery - I had almost a full bottle unused, till now that is, super easy to apply and remove. The secret is detail spray the applicator and a light mist on the plush microfiber. Did my whole car in 5 minutes. Outstanding! Thanks Adam's!

How are you using the Detail spray? And do you use good micro-fiber towels? I only use Detail spray for claying my car and as a rinse aid when drying. If you are using it for dusting off the cat, Waterless Wash is a better choice.

I used it first time today in foam gun. Not as sudsy, however the pool rinse sheeted off nicely. No water spotting. I followed up with detail spray mist dry and a coat of Buttery. Superb! I detailed it last weekend and gave it a coat of sealant last weekend. I'm going to use the wash and wax and Buttery and see how long the protection lasts. I also love the tire and rubber cleaner. Great flat black look.

My pink detail spray is 3 years old. Still works fine.

It's a good patch system if done properly, but most highway repairs are done on the cheap. If they would just drive their trucks over the patch to pack in the loose gravel and brush away the loose stone, then we wouldn't have this problem. Like one of our pres. candidates stated "We are now living in a 3'rd World Country", and I totally agree. I'm voting for this candidate. Fix the !@#$%^ roads!!!!

Shocked, I got a nice call today from MDOT. They are sending me a damage claim form and asked me to get an estimate. Maybe Ill get it repainted. If so, Im getting protection.

Im going to try using wash and wax followed by pool rinse, detail spray, adams great white and a coat of buttery once in a while to extend my sealant.

Hey, thanks! Or I could have them repaint the rockers with that gloppy textured paint. I think this Xpel sounds like the answer. My 11 Mustang had the textured black vinyl rocker panels. They held up better. I might replace with those.

No, I'm not mad at drivers. Yes, people are rude, cut you off, tailgate, block the fast lane, etc. What I'm in a rage about is living in Michigan, where they haven't a clue how to repair roads or keep them maintained. I just bought my Mustang GT 30 days ago and it is now trashed with embedded loose stone and tar. Thankfully just the rocker panels are damaged. Still probably about a grand to fix or replace and paint. The DOT says they have government immunity and take it to my insurance for a damage claim. That is just not right! They used a "p poor", cheap way to fix the road and damaged my pride and joy. I discovered this detailing my joy-ride this last weekend. I was sick. The tar was bonded to the stone which then bonded and impregnated my plastic rocker panels. No Adam's product gonna fix this, sadly.

Well, almost done with fine machine polish. Great looking results. The Visco Clay disappointing. I'm calling Monday for a refund. Very first Adam's product I don't much like. I went back over the car with regular clay as the Visco didn't get the car perfectly smooth. I also picked up more contaminants with the standard clay going over areas I did with the Visco. Stands to reason with standard clay, more surface area. The many "fingers" on the Visco has less surface area.