Vincenzo

Congrats! I may be biased but I like his name a lot too lol.

Good to hear the pads can be cleaned with APC, those will definitely be going in the shopping cart. Unfortunatly though, the pads in the clearance section are made for the flex, and I only have the PC. You know, the thing I was really hoping to see was some improvment to the claybar system. It's honestly my least favorite part of detailing. So much work for no visible reward, and to be honest its really tiring having to be down on your knees claybarring the bottom of panels and using plastic bags to make sure it's working. I have no idea what could be changed, but maybe adams will come out with a special spray to use with the claybar that is more efficient than detail spray. I think I remember a company called clay magic had the market for claybars locked up but I thought their patent expired. I don't know, just hope to see some improvement soon.

Ok, looks like I have plenty of catching up to do. Thanks for the info! But I still have 2 pretty important questions: What do I do with my SSR? Can I still buy pads or are they discontinued? Or is there maybe an adams supplier that still has old stock? Those 2 bottles were expensive and I would really rather not waste them. And has anyone experimented with using the APC to wash the new pads with? Or is the Microfibre cleaner really necessary? I'm on an etremely limited budget and I can't afford to buy that many things. I'd rather just get the gallon of APC I had already planned on, which I know can be used on the foam pads. Problem is, I really want to try the new microfiber pads, but I can't afford them if I also have to buy this new microfiber cleaner. Thanks again

Hi guys, some of you may remember me from a while back, but maybe not. Anyways, I spent the last year living in a dorm with no way to work on my car and no money to purchase detailing products, and I've apparently fallen out of touch with Adams products. I still had almost every product Adams sold from last year, even a year and a half ago, but I just did a pretty intense detail sesh on my car after a 4000 mile roadtrip and realized it's time to stock back up. I need new pads and polishes (I still have the old hex pads with the SHR and the FMP), claybars, towels, soap, well, just about everything! I'm surprised to see how much has changed. Its actually left me with a lot of questions. First, where is the SSR? I didn't see it in the products section, and I noticed the names of the other polishes have changed. Please tell me the SHR or whatever it's now called isn't the most intense polish, right? I plan on a bit of wetsanding and I need more grinding power for my PC than just SHR. Last time I tried that, I was working on polishing out one little section for over an hour. Is it just out of stock? I have 2 almost full bottles of SSR and I don't see the green pads or any kind of replacement. I hope I'm not stuck with 2 full bottles of product that I now can't use at all. Also, are the formulas for the newly renamed polishes the same? I still have 2 bottles of SHR, about 10% full each, and I don't want to just get rid of them. I also have a nearly full bottle of FMP. Are they at least compatible with the new pads? I had 2 orange hex pads and they both fell apart towards the end of my last detail sesh and I can't afford to just waste the product. And can anyone explain the brilliant glaze pads? Last I remember, BG was applied by hand. And what happened to the flex products? I remember the Flex and the PC having different pads, but I only see 1 type now. Also, what's the deal with the new Deep Wheel Cleaner? Is it worth getting? I know, I know, it's adams so it's a good product, but is it really worth the extra money over APC? I tried the GWC one time and it worked well, but I decided to stick to APC because it worked just as well for me. Does the new one make it significantly easier to clean your wheels? And does it really get rid of those little orange iron particles in your paint? My car is white and those are literally the bane of my existance. And the new total interior detailer? What's that about? The way I understood it, 1 step 'detailing and cleaning' is a big no-no. Clean with 1 product, dress with another. That's what I always thought. I used to laugh at other companies that sold 1 step solutions like 'cleaner wax', to polish and clean at the same time. Is it just for light detailing work, like just getting it clean and making it look even? I assume it doesn't replace Leather/Interior Conditioner, but kind of is just the easier way of dressing up your plastics? And Leather/Interior Cleaner is still the right way to 'deep clean' your plastics and vinyl? Anyways, thanks for any answers or help you guys can provide. I feel kind of dumb looking at the products and not knowing what I need. All that said, it's good to be back in the swing of detailing. My poor car really needs some work!

I use SVRT on my doors because if I roll down the window at a drive through in the rain, get out of my car in the rain, stupidly leave the windows down in the rain, etc, the water beads off really well. LC tends to leave streaks when it gets wet, in my experience.

Thanks mc, that will probably be the hardest part, lol. Texas, unfortunately I can't even nearly afford those. The wax is more of a protection against bug guts and dirt then anything else. I am hoping that 2-3 layers of tape will deter any rock chips on the more prone areas of the car, but I was thinking of a cheap bra for the front end. Even if there are a few marks on the car from the edges, I can polish those out. Much better then rock chips. The problem is all the cheap bras are only for the base bumpre or the GT, and I have a GT/CS. There are very few bras available for them, and they are all far out of my price point.

Yeah mc I quit my job so I haven't had any money for about 3 months, which means almost no Adams. I'm going to Northern Arizona University in Flagstaff, which of course means lots of snow

I'd just like to say that I use straight APC on almost everything. I have several pieces of painted car parts (doors, etc) laying around and I let APC dry out in the sun on an old fender, and the paint was not visibly harmed at all. Now, I wouldn't recommend doing that on your car, but I just want people to understand that diluting it isn't always necessary. As far as what most people do, 50/50 is a safe ratio for pretty much everything. If you are worried about what affect it can have on some metals, I'll confirm the "APC + Aluminum = bad" theory. It made a small chunk of aluminum have faded spots, but most of it came off with some generic brand metal polish. Interior cleaner is made specifically for cleaning interior plastics and leathers which only get exposed to certain kinds of dirt and weather. APC is made for cleaning everything, but specifically for exterior paint and trim. The APC is strong without harming the paint, and if you dilute it it won't hurt plastic (interior or otherwise). Interior cleaner is better for plastics and the such then APC (which can fade some plastics), but it might not be paint safe.

Well I'm taking the Mustangs on a trip from Ohio to Arizona (where I will be going to school). As you probably could have guessed, a lot of the trip will be on back roads, cause interstates suck. No dirt roads or anything, but there will be plenty of dust and pebbles anyways. So far I was thinking like 5 coats of MSW (even if it's cloudy the protection is worth it), 2 coats of Glass Sealant, and green tape behind the wheel wells and bottom of the front bumper. I plan on an auto wash every 2 days and a hand wash on areas with green tape + Quick Sealant. Does anyone have any suggestions or criticisms?

Scratches Chin

We are a country of bankers and lawyers. Its what we do, it's what we'll do till Aliens come down and blow us all up.

I used to use my leaf blower before it caught on fire. I took it apart and cleaned it out with Adam's products until it was nice and clean all over, and it became my dedicated car dryer. Then my mom decided to not ask me and use it to blow some grass clippings and the thing started smoking and now it won't turn on. Long story short, I had a leaf blower and loved it, and now I don't, but I still recommend it.

Sand away! No, but really, sanding isn't THAT big a deal. Just go slow and be careful, and make sure to follow a set of instructions (like the junkman's) well.

I'm so jealous of you guys with old pontiacs! What I'd give for a 73 Firebird man.

I can't wait till someone asks me this in 20 years and I get to say hell yes.

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To add onto my previous post, I watched some TV and sat on my sofa, while listening to the song "Sitting on my Sofa" by the Kinks.

Woke up around 12, got on Facebook for 20 minutes. Listened to some revolutionary English tunes. Then I went back to bed until about an hour ago. When I woke up, I ate and got back on the computer.

Really bad. Not totaled, almost though. Front bumper is scratched, passenger fender is unrecognizable, passenger door scratched into the metal and the door handle is pushed in about 3 inches. Then the passenger rear fender is totally flat against the car. The "hip" is a crumpled, flat looking angle, and the rear bumper is pulled out about half an inch to the right. I'm thinking at about 500 bucks a panel, 3 panels = 1500 bucks. Then 600 a panel to paint it brings it to 3300. Then, if I replace the front bumper, there is 300 more dollars, and to paint it is another 600. To stripe it maybe another 50, since I already have the vinyl. That is 4250. No clue how much to fix the rear bumper, but I'll guess at another 100. The wheels and tires didn't even get scratched somehow, so no problems there, but the mirror exploded and blew glass into my face (I am still picking it out of my hair) because the window was open. There is another 150 for the mirror, and I don't even know how much for the mirror glass. I'm going to guess around 4600 dollars just for parts and paint. To have them installed? I don't even know.

Went to the clinic in Ohio and wrecked my car, almost dieing, on the way home.

Aha, yeah, it's kind of like an AP course. And yes, I live really far away.

4:35AM - Wake up 4:55AM - Wake up again 5:00AM - Get in shower 5:30AM - Get out of shower to dry off and get ready for the day 5:50AM - Stumble blindly down the stairs to get breakfast 6:00AM - Finish my cup of coffee and my pudding cup (breakfast) and watch the news 6:40AM - Drive to school 7:00AM - Arrive at school and park at the end of the back lot 7:20AM - AP Marketing class 8:10AM - Sociology 9:00AM - Physics 9:50AM - Study Hall 10:45AM - Lunch *Note, I illegally leave school during lunch and study hall to get REAL food 11:20AM - CP English 12 12:05AM - AP Calculus 12:55AM - Leave school 1:15PM - Arrive at home 1:45PM - Get on the internet and check forums/emails 2:45PM - Go upstairs and get ready for work 3:30PM - Leave for work 4:00PM - Clock in at work and begin bagging 5:00PM - Go out and do carts for 45 minutes 6:00PM - go out and do carts for 30 minutes 6:30PM - Go on break 6:45PM - Return from break and resume bagging 7:15PM - Take out trash from registers 7:30PM - Go out on cars for 30 minutes 8:00PM - Clock out 8:30PM - Leave Kroger 8:45PM - Arrive at home 9:00PM - Eat dinner 10:00PM - Sit down on the forums and my emails again 11:31PM - Type this post. So basically, I got up, went to school, went to work, and then got on the computer.

I woke up around 4:30, took a shower, guzzled some NyQuil and coffee and drove to school around 7:00. Then around 1:00 I skipped out of school to go visit my co-workers at Kroger and pick up a pay check. Then I went home and slept until about 20 minutes ago.

I have a large storage container that I store all of the product in. Then, I have 4 large bags. 1 has my 4 wash mits in it, another has my cheap MFs, another has my Adam's MFs, and the last one has things like the brushes and sponges (for wheel wells, chill guys). Then I have a small plastic bag for the small pads, and a normal bag for the regular PC pads.