Justin@SwanCreek

Wont*

Should be a great time, and thanks for the luck... Hopefully it would rain, but as of now it's looking like We're going to get hit with a thunderstorm Friday!

I can't wait to see/meet everyone this week end! It should be a lot of fun... Dave from the forums, Bryanna, and I will be running the event! Hope to see you all there!

The sealant works great! And yeah yeah yeah mook.... Won't happen again I can promise you that!

It is recommended to start with the least aggressive method first. As stated above, start out using a 2x2 test area to best determine the process that your vehicle will require. The reason you start out using the least aggressive method first, is because every vehicles clear differs from one another. For example you could have two vehicles with identical damage, but one vehicles clear could be hard and the other soft. Therefore the vehicle with the hard clear could take the most aggressive method to correct, while the vehicle with soft clear could take the least aggressive method. Therefore it is always important to start out using the least aggressive method first, and bumping up the aggression as needed. The reason behind this, is because your vehicle only has a certain amount of clear coat. If you remove more clear then what is necessary to do the correction, then you limit the amount of corrections you can do on your vehicle by unnecessarily thinning out the clear coat. Suggested Steps: - use fine machine polish and work it until the product flashes (I.e. polish turns clear) which is known as a pass - wipe off an inspection area in the now flashed polish to determine if you have made any correction - repeat process with fine machine polish up to 4 passes. With the ending of each pass, do your inspection to determine if you have corrected the area. If you do not get the desired results with fine machine polish, then bump up to something a little more aggressive (swirl & haze remover) and repeat the same steps as you did with fine machine polish. Again, if you do not get the desired results with swirl & haze remover, then bump up to sever swirl remover. *** note: when you bump up to a more aggressive method, you will not remove 100% of the damage. As the more aggressive method will introduce some damage to remove the heavier damage. So you want to get the area corrected to 80-90% with swirl & haze or 60-75% with sever. The reason for this is because you'll be following up with the least aggressive methods to finish your correction. Example: if you determine that it'll take 2 passes of sever swirl to remove 70% of the damage, then you bump up to swirl & haze to remove 90%. Once you finish swirl and haze, you finish off with fine machine polish to achieve 100% correction. Once you figure out what it will take in your 2x2 test area to get the desired results with the polishes, you simply repeat that same process over the rest of the vehicle. Hope this help, and good luck!

Welcome!

Great turn around!

As I was at spring Carlisle working with Adams, I had a customer ask for a demo of the glass sealant. So I gladly walked him through the steps and did a 50/50 of my jeeps front windshield. While on my trek home of over 150 miles, I past through several bug storms that completely covered my windshield in guts. So I did as anyone else would, blast them off with the windshield washer fluid. And to my surprise, the drivers side appeared crystal clear... but the passengers side had become a smeared mess of guts. That's when it hit me, I completely forgot to finish off the rest of my front windshield with glass sealant. So I figured I would share my misfortune with you guys, and let you see for yourselves how well glass sealant works! Side with glass sealant: Side without glass sealant: Hope you guys enjoyed!

Thanks for all the comments guys, and it was great working with everyone! As for that red f150... I looked like I murdered something! My pants and shirt were covered in red by the time we were done polishing that thing out!

I'd like to start by saying this was an awesome show! And it was a privilege to work with Adam, Mario, Nick, Dave, and Ed. Throughout the event we had some awesome cars, as always, to demo on. Thanks for all who attended this event!!! Kicking off the week! First demo car! Mario showing off some waterless wash. Dave doing some prep work All set and ready to go for demos! Light swirls, nothing too bad After a round of SHR and FMP Where is the detail spray bottle? 50/50 of an old f150... Man was this thing turned out great! Another 50/50 Some reflection shots... 2 year old Denali with some serious swirls! After a round of SHR and FMP! Here she is all polished out and topped with brilliant glaze and Americana! Ed did serious some magic on the trim and fender wells with svrt and undercarriage spray! We ended up getting rained on, but it made for a perfect opportunity to get some pictures of water beading action from brilliant glaze and Americana! 2010 challenger before... We ended up getting swamped and I was not able to get too many before pictures. After a round of SHR, FMP, brilliant glaze, and Americana! Here are some random picture of the show! And that's all folks! Thanks for tuning in!!!

Welcome to the forums! It was my pleasure helping you out with your jeep this past weekend! How's that svrt working out for you on your jeeps fenders!?!?

Last picture I'm posting, I promise!!! Lol real glad I bought the camera

Loving the Canon t3i so far!!! Here are some pictures of my brothers dog ive taken! Thanks again for all the help!

Thanks nick! And it was kind of hard to tell exactly what it was as the dots were extremely small, but trans or some other fluid makes sense. I have seen brake fluid do some nasty damage before as well!

I had a customer come in today who was driving behind a truck that was leaking "something"... My guess is that "something" was brake fluid, as it appeared to be that consistency all over the hood. The would be brake fluid looked like little white dots all over the hood with an oily surrounding around each dot. I could visually tell by the first inspection of the hood that the assumed brake fluid had begun to etch into the clear. My process: - clay - clay some more... - 2 passes of SHR - 1 pass of FMP - brilliant glaze - Americana Here are the results! Before After Before After Before After Before - take a note at all the "white dots" After After I hope you guys enjoyed the write up!

Thanks guys... And nick, I just got the basic kit lens that comes with the camera, as I want to do a little more research into lenses before I make any purchases. As some of the guys mentioned before, the lens is what makes a huge difference so I want to make sure I get the right one(s). And yeah I'd love to try it out, hopefully we will be working together again soon!

Lmao glad I found this... It just made my day.

Well I went to the store thinking I was going to buy the Nikon d5100 over the Canon t3i... But once I got both cameras in my hand, I instantly hated the feel of the Nikon. The biggest difference was that my pinky didn't have room on the Nikon, so it had to rest on the bottom of the camera. With feel aside, I also was not a big fan of how the user interface was laid out on the Nikon. It felt as though I had to press a ton of buttons just to change a simple setting. The Canon on the other hand had more then enough room for my pinky, and the user interface seemed to be a little quicker in changing settings. So after a while of playing around with both cameras, I decided the Canon t3i was better suited for me. Thanks for all the help guys!

Thanks for all the input guys! It really helps... I am going to be going to best buy shortly to play around with both cameras to see which one I prefer. I assume the hands on feel of the camera plays the biggest part in the what camera I'll will like. So hopefully there will be a big difference between the two and it will help to eliminate one of the two. Thanks again guys!

Wow thanks for all the responses guys... I guess I've really got to go and have a hands on with each camera to see which one I prefer. Just one more question though... Will the difference in mp from either camera impact the image quality? Or is it so minuet that I wouldnt be able to notice it? Thanks again guys!

I've been looking into upgrading to a dslr for some time now... I currently have an Olympus pen epl1, and it's just not cutting it for me anymore. The differences I know of are that the Nikon shoots a little faster and has an easier layout for controls. So my question are, which one has better dependably? Which has the best overall picture quality for still shooting? Any help would be great, thanks in advance!

Caught in the act... I knew if I looked long and hard enough I'd find some pre-planning going on! I've got my eye on you two from now on lol

I'll tell you what... Revive was way under used in my shop until I went out to auburn and learned of all it's capabilities from Mook! Big thank you to Mook!!! As for a step by step process... Step 1: After the rims and tires were cleaned I hit the rims with revive with the blue hex app. Step 2: I then follow that up with metal polish 1 with another blue hex app (revive app) Step 3: Hit it again with revive and blue hex Step 4: Followed up with metal polish 2 with the applicator for metal polish Step 5: Finished it all up with revive with the blue hex just for good measure. Step 6: Apply SVRT to tires Keep in mind that I was wiping the product off after each step with the exception of the SVRT.

Thanks for the kind words guys... And trust me when I say mp1 and 2 are amazing! The results are always incredible! And I forgot to mention in the process that I put svrt on the tires.