Odds and Ends

Most dealers do local clinics. I sponsor lots of clubs and host anywhere from 6 to 15 or so demos throughout the year for the various clubs. I'm also happy to do a clinic and demos for anybody who wants to organize a group of say 10 or more people although that has only happened one time. Having a retail showroom, I can sell you what I just showed you, you take it home and use it that same day. Back to the point if this thread, I recall a few years back, there was some talk about "authorized" training and classes but I don't think it ever grew legs.

Chances are, they are etched into the clear and will require quite a bit of polishing and/or other measures to get the surface as smooth as possible. I see this on middle aged (C4. C5, C6) Corvettes all the time. If it's bad, make it as best as you can as it will probably never be perfect again. It's mostly due to age, neglect, and lack of protection. Does it look similar to this C5? Here are some pics of one I encountered last year:

While I agree with what has already been said and cautioned about, if APC and/or Tire & Rubber cleaner hasn't taken it off, then there is a good possibility it isn't wax. Those two methods almost always work for me and I've seen some pretty bad examples roll through my shop. The best way to attack something like this is to know what it is in the first place. Many chemicals can affect/destroy ABS plastic, so proceed with caution. A toothbrush or nail brush does wonders when used with the aforementioned cleaners....lots more effective than a towel. I'll use an old wash cloth if I need more "bite" than a microfiber towel provides.

If you keep the car indoors overnight, you can sneak a wash in with temps around 28 or 29, but not much less. You can't waste much time, but it can be done and I do it all the time. Layer up the clothes and as previously mentioned, scuba gloves work great. Probably the best 30 bucks I've spent! If the car has sat out the night before, you simply can't do it. Water (and soap) will freeze on contact even is you use warm water.

Cool, I stand corrected. Thanks!

Not sure why you would want put a coating on clear film. The newer films are "self healing" and have a bit of "give" or "flexibility". A ceramic coating is just the opposite. It's designed to be a hard protective layer. So no, do not apply a coating to clear film.

Nothing is 100% carnauba. As previously mentioned, it would be hard as a rock and not spreadable. I've used the aforementioned product and compared to the original formula of Americana, I will tell you that P21S is a little slicker than Americana but that would indicate to me that there are more polymers than carnauba. Shine is sbout equal given proper and adequate prep. I have not compared P21S to the current Americana. I will echo what others have already stated. The secret to a fantastic shine is having the "clearest of clear coats". If your clear is not "clear", you will not see the true color and/or reflection of the base color. Many of my customers remark how sparkly their car is when they pick it up. I explain to them how polishing the car and removing all the scratches makes the clear coat actually clearer and you see more of the true color of the paint. For those of you who have polished single stage paint, you know what a mirror effect is like. I always joke that "nothin' shines like good 'ol single stage"

Adams Carpet and Upholstery cleaner will work magic on those! You'll be blown away. BUT, I have some bad news in the pink/red stuff. Doubt there is anything short of genuine magic on those. Red dye is practically impossible. You may have to go after it multiple times, but the before and after should be quite drastic.

Yup, the first thing I do is register as may domain names as I can think of. I'm getting ready to launch a new business entity and I have 5 potential domains registered.

Yes, strip wash is fine.

Give it a try and see if you notice a difference. On the flip side, I've never used MR only.

I guess I'm either very lucky or have been going about marketing and promotion all wrong......LOL Seriously, you really do need to vet your customers. If they want their 20 year old, 180K mile Toyota Corolla to look like it rolled off the showroom floor, you're going to lose your shirt on those types of jobs and it would likely need more than just polishing. The cost of the service will likely exceed the value of the car. If you don't think you can make the customer happy, don't take the job. You'll be better off in the long run. You can give different prices for different levels of service. That alone will weed out the serious customers from the tire kickers and enable you to meet expectations and still ensure you make some money in the process. Of course, this means that you have to be able to deliver on your promise. Chris is right that you will probably be more likely to get daily drivers at the beginning, but that's a good thing. It will enable you to gain the needed experience and hone your skills for when the weekend toys start rolling in. I was fortunate enough to pull most of my startup jobs from fellow car club members and word spread from there. I've been a long time member of Porsche Club of America and Audi Club North America.

Actually, you can. I do it all the time. The question is at what point can you afford to turn away work. Pricing in this business should be based on size of car and it's current condition. If someone is offering a flat rate, I'm happy to let people go use one of the flat rate services and they will get what they pay for. I tell new customers that the first time I work on their car, it is most likely going to be more expensive and if they choose to maintain it better and/or return for regularly scheduled intervals, it will be less expensive on return visits because we won't need to do as much work. You also need to figure out what the customer's expectations are as well. Mark is correct that as your results are learned among the community, you will weed out some, but probably not all of the types of cars you're referring to. Good luck!

Goo Gone or any of the over the counter citrus based cleaners should work fine and not damage the leather. You will want to condition afterwards. Be careful with stronger, "adhesive removers" as they may be more likely to pull the color and/or create hazing. - Darryl

practice, practice, practice! Then, when you're comfortable with your technique, practice some more. Seriously, every car will respond differently. No two jobs will be the same. As others have suggested, there are "classes" out there that will discuss the basics, but a lot of it is learning about the physical and chemical properties of the various surfaces that you will be working on. Paint, plastics, carpets, leather, etc. Reading up on and learning about the actual materials will help a lot.

RaggTopp......nuf said. It has always been the philosophy that if Adam's can't come out with a superior product, then there is no reason to waste time and money on developing something that already exists. I obviously can't speak for what's to come in the future, but to answer your question.......yes, get some RaggTopp!

I've used the heat gun with decent success. It's a little tricky to get it "even" but it does work. Might be best to practice on something first. As long as your not looking for concours perfection, like it said, it does indeed work. It would be best to use the heat gun, then put the trim coating on it to preserve it.

No need to go to the "stealership" to buy cleaning products. Get yourself some RaggTopp cleaner and spray protectant. You can get both items in a kit. I use it (and sell it) for all of my customer cars as well for both my 996 Cabrio and 968 Cabrio. Give me a ring or PM if you have questions on the top. Black is tough......once you get it polished and sealed, touch it as little as possible. For the "best" shine, I like two coats of LPS as a base, then you can simply maintain with HGG and every so often, hit it with a coat of wax or glaze as a top coat. But again, be careful how much you're rubbing on it. Having a couple of layers on there will help reduce swirls but not prevent them completely. It's black......

First of all, you need to define "full detail". Once you determine that, examine the vehicle and plan the necessary steps to achieve your goal, or in this case, the customers goal. I know that's a very vague answer, but unless you want to end up working for about 5.00 per hour, you need to have a plan before you start. I don't give any pricing over the phone nor do anything flat rate until I see the vehicle in person.

Try clay first.....it's easier since it doesn't involve a trip to the store to buy the steel wool. If that doesn't work, use #0000 steel wool with glass cleaner as lube. You shouldn't have to use a tremendous amount of pressure. Wipe it clean the a glass towel, then clean the glass as normal with more glass cleaner and a fresh towel. Use the Glass Sealant to help prevent future water spotting.

I've been using it for years and I use my towels hard. Laundry 3 to 4 times per week. I've got borderless blues and double softs that I swear I could almost put back on my retail shelves and sell as new. I love this stuff! Just add a few ounces to the washer with your regular (dye free, bleach free, perfume free) soap. It will keep your towels looking and feeling new for a good long time.

Do these one section at a time. As you agitate with the cockpit brush, you can add a spritz of cleaner as you brush, if that makes sense. You don't want to spray the whole seat as that may cause streaks and splotches. The cleaner is pretty strong so be careful not to remove the pigment/dye. Wipe with a clean towel as you go to check your progress. Even as bad as it looks in the photos, it appears to mainly surface dirt. Take your time and good luck.

I will echo what others have already said, but the bottom line is this: Taking a cover on and off will scratch. Maybe not deeply or every time, but it will. Been there, done that. Also, if it's outside, the wind will blow and the cover will move around, potentially scratching even more. Light scratches are better than UV damaged interiors and faded paint, but you have to decide what's best for your circumstances. I don't cover any of my cars.....some live inside, some live outside, some go in and out as space dictates. Keep 'em sealed/waxed/protected and they will clean up very easy. Now, back to your original post......the car is indoors? I wouldn't cover it unless it's a severe environment. Is the garage occupied by other daily driven cars? Kids? Workshop? If it's just gonna sit there by itself, I certainly wouldn't cover it. It's already "covered" by virtue of the fact that it's indoors. You've already done the right thing to get it out of the elements. If there will be activity around the car, then it's going to get dusty more easily and maybe one of the satin indoor only covers would suit your needs. Covercraft, again as suggested previously, is pretty much the go to brand and they have quite a few to choose from. Whatever you choose to do, buy a good cover. Like many other things in the world today, you get what you pay for. Put it on and take it off as little as possible. Keep it from touching the ground, etc. Get some help when possible to avoid dragging it around on the vehicle's surface as best as possible. - Darryl

Yes, applicators, towels, and brushes......oh my!

I stock pretty much everything, but don't do the 32oz - only 16oz and gallons. Of course, there's always the possibility I may be out of something at any given time, but I order almost every Monday or Tuesday so I can restocked by the weekend.