Chase@InsanePaint

I appreciate the sentiment bud. I don't have ALL the answers. But I'd be glad to help! Totally understand that. And I agree....to a certain extent. However, those are also typically people that, again, don't understand the power curve & throw of the Rupes. There are plenty of highly skilled detailers, across the nation, using MANY other pads than just the Rupes pads. With zero issues, and stunning results. Because they know how to use that particular machine. So here's what I'd say to the OP.... If you're going to have ONE MACHINE. And that's all that's possible for the budget and tool chest at this point. Then I'd say the Flex 3401. It's more applicable in more jobs, for more reasons, and more areas. Period. When the budget and tool chest allows for expansion, then look into the Rupes. This whole idea really shouldn't be a debate. It's really about preference, budget, and skillset. Hope this helps.

The boys speak the truth Ralf!! They're dead on. It has it's place. HEAVY CUTTING. Paint correction polish with a D/A is going to get most jobs done with just a few passes, when you're only dealing with moderate defects. But when you need a "no-holds-barred-full-on-heavy-cut-paint-restoration." You'll need the PE, otherwise you'll be working one panel for an hour, just trying to cut through heavier defects (water etching, deep marring, etc). The rotary, flat out....GETS. SHIZ. DONE!

They have a "less aggressive" backing plate with a lighter stick Velcro to cure that issue. We've used it. And eventually ended up going back to the original one. But if you want a less aggressive Velcro, there is another backing plate to cure it. The washer mod does help a little bit, but it's not what I'd consider a "deal breaker." The reason you may not "feel" like it cuts as much, is because the Rupes machines are muuuuuuuuuch smoother in their operation. When you're used to the "brute muscle car" feel of the Flex, almost ANYTHING else is gonna feel like a cake walk, lol, or like it's not as "aggressive." But in my opinion, the Rupes is equal to or greater in cutting force, but it does it in a TOTALLY different, more streamline fashion....so I can see where it might "feel" like it doesn't do the work. Going from the Flex to the Rupes, is like hopping out of an old Chevy with a supercharged 572, into a Ferrari 458 Italia. Both fast.....but VERY different power delivery. Just my opinion though. And you know what they say about opinions, lol.

We use the Rupes EXTENSIVELY in our shop. Here's why it does that: 1) On curvy panels - The throw of the LHR21 is so massive, that it creates a different kind of force in the way that it works a panel. And when you're working on the higher speeds (primarily 5 & 6), that force will separate the pad from its backing. The reason for this is because it's not making full contact with the body panel, and the throw of the machine is yanking itself away from the pad. On slower speeds, it won't do this as aggressively. 2) On smaller panels than the size of the pad - Same thing. The LHR21 will do this all day long. It's truly designed for bigger, flatter panels. Once this is understood, you'll find you won't have this issue anymore. There's a lot of "nay-sayers" about the Rupes, but it's because those people don't truly understand the machine, and haven't logged any time in trying to learn its power curve. However it's a good reason why the Flex AND Rupes, make sense to have both in your arsenal. We just bought the new Rupes LHR12 Duetto for this reason also. And we are in love with it. If you're truly passionate, and love the craft of detailing, it's incredibly smart to have separate polishers, for separate jobs: 3" polisher - 5" polisher - 6" polisher The Rupes LHR21 is an incredibly phenomenal machine (It's my personal favorite), but it has its place. Hope this helps.

Thanks man. My three newest ones, all have microphones, as well as being in our new shop. The earlier ones are in the process of being redone accordingly. Preciate the feedback!

Why did you Plasti-dip on a Porsche, instead of just buy new emblems....? Glad you're having fun with the new ride though. You're gonna wanna rip those things off, after the first time you polish! Those will be a major PITA to detail around. I do like the color though! Congrats on the new whip! Where do you live in Birmingham? Or is that just where you got the car from? All this time I've seen you on the forum, and I didn't know you were from Birmingham!

We've gotten 2 from Home Depot for half that price. Love em. Need em. But that one's overpriced.

Great idea guys. Nice to see people still in "search mode" and not get complacent & comfortable.

Daaaaaaamn dude. WOW. You are in the correct mindset though. FOR SURE could've been worse had it happened a few weeks/months ago. Glad all is well homie. Whew.....

Wooooow!! Wicked cool man!!

Alcohol wipe. Quick Sealant. DONE. Repat in 6 months. Merry Christmas! (let's not make things harder than they need to be)

I'm in Birmingham! WELCOME!

You have an interesting username.

Nice work broham!!!

Paint restoration on a 1999 Carrera complete. There's "before" conditions of this paint finish, in my "Before & After" thread. She was baaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaad. Now, she's pure butter.

Wooooooooooooooooooord. Too cool.

Good stuff here Daddy!! LOVE it!!!

A couple more from the monster paint restoration we're doing on the Porsche. Rocker panels before & after

You've cranked hard for an already 12 hour long day of detailing. And you CAN'T WAIT to cut & polish another car for 2 hours. When you're discussing the order of product application with a friend, and your wife chimes in with "YES. Sealant first, then glaze, then wax."

Good info. All great replies. Nice work boys.

To answer the ORIGINAL question..... YES. That's massive overkill. Period. Quick Sealant or Liquid Paint Sealant (<for the massive win) ALONE will yield some great shine, and ~5 months protection. Buttery wax on top of that, will add more shine & depth, along with a touch more durability, however I can see you wanting to add that once a month or two. In addition, if you're using DS with every wash, you have to remember that the new formula will maintain gloss, and add longevity to the protection. And in our shop, with every detail we do, we protect our client's cars with a sealant & wax combo, because we believe in that system of intense gloss & protection. But YES bro....you're going WAY overboard, if you've done both sealants and Buttery WITHIN a month. If you keep going at that rate, you will cause more damage than good, as you'll cloud the paint finish and actually dull the shine. Let the products do their job and live their life. Agreed with the boys above. If you feel the compulsion to apply "shine enhancing" product every wash, use BG.

Here's my feedback..... I have NO DOUBT that whatever you guys do, the quality will be STELLAR. For lack of a better way to put it, I know Adam's doesn't "half-***" anything. So the thickness, the GSM measurement, and overall quality of the towel is KILLER. So that's a non-issue. I've always LOOOVED Adam's towels!! Here's the annoying part..... Currently, the Single Soft is "out of stock" waaaay more than it's "IN STOCK!?" So I frequently have issues when wanting to order more. Not to mention, as a representative for y'all, when I HIGHLY recommend towels to maintain a paint finish for a client we just did a BIG detail for, but they cannot order because they're out of stock for WEEKS at time. Incredibly disappointing, as those people usually buy a competitor's towel, because they need new fresh towels NOW....not 2 weeks from now. So my conclusion is that if the new towels can KEPT IN STOCK on a regular basis, and the supplier can actually keep the shelves full.....then I don't need any more convincing to KEEP them as part of the regular lineup!!

Hey thanks brother! I appreciate the fire outta that man!! Here's a few shots of some swirls & paint finishes we murdered these past few weeks at I.P.A.D. Acura TSX - Prep for sale detail- Ford F250 Work Truck - Yearly Winter Prep detail And a Porsche Carrera we are prepping for it's new 2nd owner - HEAVY COMPOUNDING on this girl - Whew! Happy Holidays shine freaks!

Probably best to tape off the vinyl decal. Especially since I'm assuming it's "satin" in finish. So polishing that finish would be bad. If it's NOT satin, and has a gloss like the paint, then it COULD be veeeeeeeeerry gently polished like the paint, but I can't imagine it needing it. For vinyl decals of any sort, I'd HIGHLY recommend Quick Sealant, ESPECIALLY for satin finish. SVRT doesn't make much sense, as you'd be trying to add "shine" to a part that's not meant to shine, as well as it would rinse off fairly easily...?? Everyone has their preference, but that doesn't make sense to me. In our shop we consistently use Quick Sealant and consistently get KILLER results, as well as the vinyl getting great UV protection that LASTS. Not to mention it richens the vinyl in a very "level" fashion, whereas SVRT would be splotchy. We've done plenty of satin & matte finishes, whether it be just stripes, or entire vehicles that are wrapped. This philosophy works great for us. Hope that helps.

I'll tell ya like I tell ALL my clients about PPF..... #1) Paint needs to be PERFECT underneath. Otherwise you're going to be frustrated with defects trapped underneath. #2) We GENTLY polish PPF with the typical Correction Polish & Finishing Polish. Usually just at a slightly slower speed on the polisher, and usually make faster passes. We've had NO issues with harming films. #3) We seal & wax them JUST like paint, and have had phenomenal results with that. Hope that helps. IMO, this is just another product that people will try to sell you "PPF specific" polishes & sealers.....and it's just absolutely not necessary. Kinda like how people would say - "Oh you gotta have foam cannon soap for your foam cannon" LOL....whatever. But again, this all just my opinion, and from my experience.