diver88

I might have a similar problem with clear coated polished aluminum wheels. they look good until you get them in to direct sunlight or lights at night then they look "cloudy" and swirled. I tried everything you have until I decided it was in the final finish of the aluminum before the clear coat was applied. might be your situation also. ?? good luck

what I see people do to their cars is a shame really. a neighbor will throw his microfiber towels (walmart type) on the ground while he's washing the car with a mitt that looks like you could clean a BBQ grill with it. I gave him some TW ICE I wasn't ever going to use and he thinks that's top end. as he shakes the leaves and dirt out of his MF towels he picks up off the ground to remove the wax.... he thinks I'm crazy with the three buckets/grit gaurds, foam gun, elect leaf blower and the plastic totes with snow white MF towels.

the blue face foam I have on my Revive pads is noticeably stiffer than the red or yellow face foam (the ones I have).. that why I asked, seems like Ryan said to use the Revive ? pad for Quick Sealant application..? if I understood correctly.

now I'm confused, unless something has changed.... the blue (Revive applicator) seems stiffer overall than the Red/Blue (Americana applicator). I was told some time ago the yellow (Buttery applicator) was exactly the same thing as the Americana Red/Blue just a different color so if I needed an Americana and didn't have one use the Buttery applicator while applying Quick Sealant. I was also told to use the Revive applicator to apply Brilliant Glaze, then later someone said no it was too aggressive for anything other than Revive (which I don't even own, bought them for Glaze, then told not to use them with it).. have the Blue Revive applicators changed because mine are noticeably stiffer foam than the others and seem too aggressive to apply Quick Sealant ?

I think the old machine superwax had a 12hour cure time... no , I was told that after you apply the Quick Sealant not to top it until it "cured" for at least 30 minutes. yes, you wipe it right off but some of the earlier videos showed waiting a few minutes and that was a disaster.. I couldn't get it back off. so after just appying it with a lite mist and a little on the pad working it both ways, I wipe it right off and it comes off nicely. but again, I was told no second coat or BG, or wax for at least a 30 min cure time. that may have changed this week though. it used to be suggested to put the BG right on top of wax, now its the other way due to the solvents mentioned above.

ok, Ashley told me I think that BG had something in it that would diminish wax, so put wax on top of it.. question is, after applying Quick Sealant and it cures for the required 30 minutes, will BG eat into the QS too? and then top with Buttery or Americana.

I've used more Waterless Wash than just about anything and I've got less than a half a spray bottle left, I guess I'll try to mix my own. I've been mainly using it on the low plastic stuff on the bottom of my car along with cleaning the disk brake dust off the wheels every time I come home. thanks I'll give it a try. I might even try the rinseless and try using less water around here.

I was told Waterless Wash was going away, and you can make WW with Rinseless Wash by adding water, that be about the same performance Adam?

Rich, going to keep this one a while.. I've got 2275 miles on it and I'm loving it more every time I drive it.. very comfortable, pulls strong but it's not a hotrod. moreover, I need to figure out the problems I'm experiencing with some of the products here. are the Hex Americana pads being replaced with something else.. I looked again last night for them so I could place my order on the sale and couldn't find them thinking I'd come back and look more and forgot about it and missed the sale, just emptied my cart out.

Hmmm, ok... thanks.

long overdue update, I ordered a Challenger and got it last May.. now I'm about to seal, glaze and wax for the first time and have been unable to get the red applicators for the sealer so I can apply the glaze and Americana. only applicators I have are ones I've used for the wheels. and still having issues with the microfiber towels linting and fibers sticking to the car with Detail Spray.. I have to use blue waterless towels to clear the mess. another I-phone pic at night.

WELCOME Donnie, like others have said I guess that smell is not good for you but like you I feel the car is still new if I can smell it. the "off gassing" kept making a film on my inside glass for 3 months or so, after that everything sort of calmed down. dirt stinks, so I keep things vacuumed out regularly and I vacuum up some carpet fresh to keep the exhaust on my vacuum from sinking up the car while I'm using it. my current car has leather so the leather cleaner keeps it smelling like new really. I park it in the garage with the windows rolled up, so I guess that helps too. my daily driver is a chevy p/u with cloth interior and it stayed new smelling for a couple of years and when it started to go away I noticed an open pack of Juicy Fruit gum in the console sort of mimicked the new vehicle smell of a chevy.. so for a long time I kept Juicy Fruit Gum in the p/u and Bounce dryer sheet under the seat.. I had folks comment on "that new car smell" for 5-6 years... after 15 years and 180K miles, not so much anymore. have fun.

does the glaze need to "cure" or can it be topcoated right away?

that's really good to know, but with washing multiple times and using APC my towels have got to be pretty clean since most have never seen sealers, polishes or waxes...most have only seen detail spray but I'll search for the "free and clear" laundry detergent for future washes. now I still need to clear that sealer "film" off the clear coat that seems to be causing my problem. like I said, I switched to clean, unused new towels and still had the issue. thanks, we'll get to the bottom of this eventually.

maybe that's part of my trouble. on many occasions I've sprayed them with all purpose cleaner to cut through the excess wax, detail spray etc.. wouldn't that remove the residue you speak of or is APC damaging to the single softs? they feel really soft, and smell clean. also, a suggestion on a specific liquid soap to use?