davidg

If I remember correctly they got the big X. People kept wanting to swap items for others and it made packaging a problem. Picking your items in the machine catagory is being tested right now, I'm sure these will be back soon. You could probably give them a call and they would fox it up for you though.

Exactly! Cover your hard work in a layer of sealant or wax (or both!).

Sounds like a good way to spend the day! Mine was sent to Japan. Wonderful land of low end watches that rock.

What's the smell of this? I liked the smell of the MSS, but ended up giving the bottle to a friend since it was just so hard to use. I'm currently topping Klasse AIO with Americana because it's easy to use (acrylic formula as well). But, the stuff really has a chemical smell behind it. I might pick this up next order, interested in the testers chiming in.

I don't have knobby tires, but when I applied vtr with a paint brush on a w&w customers truck it came out nice. I'm sure there are faster ways but it didn't take that much longer. I just had to do small sections to make sure I got even coverage.

Skyline photos!

Just let it wear off. Put some Americana over it if you wanna do something. Z is a fantastic product and there is no need to remove it unless you just feel strongly that it needs to be Adams sealant on your car.

Much better without the orange.

As much as I hate seeing cop cars usually, that thing is rad! In the sideways shot of the unmasking section I thought it was a spot on the window. The old polish that was unwiped (left hand side) looked like the contour of a black seat or cloud reflection.

I've written out about 10 replies at various times to this thread. I want to be as friendly and helpful as possible to a fellow S owner, but I honestly didn't believe me quoting and posting a few links, ect. would be looked at very closely. Better to leave mystery and wonder, inspiration; if you will, for the OP or others to look it up and get a general conscientious to back up or depute my finding. I understand the SS thought, and I was truly doubting my knowledge of these vehicles after seeing the pads. I thought the clear might have been toast, but I let my curiosity in before work time and just did a quick search when I saw the post about SS being thin. I didn't want to see anyone ruin their paint. However, I'm wondering if the tri-color is making some of the weird marring happen that is photographed. Possibly not a uniform spray of tint in the clear? Off topic, it appears the NSX is also a tri-color vehicle. Not a single stage. Kinda makes me sad to know one of my favorite youtubers was wrong. PS. I've still got getting my orange peel photo in the back of my mind. I've had a customer car the past few days and mine is too dirty to get a decent photo of the paint up close. I work late tomorrow, but I still have a little left on the jeep I've got here visiting.

It's not single stage.

Did you clay the car before starting? Post up on S2ki and see if your car should be cleared. Wash and Wax section. I touched up a little scuff on a NFR 2 weeks ago and got no transfer. It was a salvage car though, so not sure what's been done to the paint in a body shop. My SSM is defiantly cleared. I'll try and get some photos of my orange peel tomorrow before work. 105 is too much for the S, swirl and haze remover does well when you finish with fine machine, but before Adams I got decent results using XMT fine swirl remover (very similar cut to fine machine polish). Bumpers are painted. Was the marring before or after your finishing polish? Phil at Detailers Domain is a sponsor over on the S2k site and very friendly. He's also an Adams dealer. If you commission a detailer make sure he has a paint thickness gauge. s2k brother. If you have any issues let me know. I've been around them the past 6+ years, defiantly have a passion for these vehicles.

Least aggressive method. Start with the white pad and fine machine. If that fixes it then awesome! If not, clean the white pad with compressed air/pad brush and set it aside. Use the orange. If you were doing the whole car you'd do a spot like this in a small area to see what your up against for the whole car but since your issue is just on the rear deck just do it there. Don't forget to protect it after your done!

I've been doing parts retail while going to school for the past few years. Any of the big box stores (Oreillys, Advance, Zone) will top out at the Icons. One year is twice as long as traditional style blades typically last. Wipe the edge off with a towel every few washes. If you're in cold weather you will see less life from wipers than those in warmer climates. If you start them on an icy windshield they will be toast quickly. UV rays will damage them if the car is outside all the time. So many factors come into play. Also, your tolerance, or opinion, of what makes a wiper blade "used up." I get tons of customers who replace them when the rubber dry rots so bad it's about to break. I also believe Dylan posted a tip to use some fine grit sand paper to knock the hard edge off that wipers get after some time and allow soft rubber to form to the glass.

303, but I've seen that raggtop is more popular. If you have a vinyl top Super VRT has been used. You do need to ensure it is not cloth though. I personally find for my top that mixing up a small batch of soap and water then using a (thoroughly cleaned) lug nut brush gently in opposing directions gets my top clean. If it's already clean I treat it like paint just ensuring to use no pressure. The Adams wash mitts are spectacular are removing any loose dust with no effort.

I personally would rewash with soap and water and then reapply your coatong to that area. Wont hurt if you overlap a little. At least do more bg and bw.

Masking tape. If you aren't cool with that,and you want to use what you have just do a couple coats of buttery and they should come right off with a good washing in NC.

Even some brand new cars need clayed. Sealant bonds to paint, not as well to contaminants.

How happy was he? I'd believe it was a different car from what it started at.

Look at your sealant for protection. Anything on top is to add gloss and depth to the paint. I've got 2 coats of sealant, a coat of glaze, then a coat of Americana on my car. I will probably do one more coat of Americana before winter hits. Glaze breaks down faster than wax so it's going to try and lift off the paint. This will take the wax with it, or at least affect its attachment to the vehicle. But, you've 'sealed' the glaze in with wax, so it has protection to prevent it from just wearing off really fast with the weather.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iV1UJbCBTPc When I was looking videos up on my tablet I saw a comment that he made a video of how to fix the pump. I won't say it's a spectacular one after watching most of it, but above is the link to it if you are brave enough to disassemble your machine.

Was looking these up on the YouTube and many comments say something inside needs to be oiled periodically.

Not sure of your budget or wiring experience, but I have LED's wired in place of my drop lights and halogen stands. Been really debating them going into the shop. You can pick up 20W and have a TON of light, but they are about 50 bucks each.

That's primer man, she's SOL without repaint. You can remove some of the tiny scratches around it, but the bulk are there to stay. Even with that said, a good polish job will make it feel like a semi new car. General tule of thumb, if you can feel it with your finger nail then it's going to need repaint. At 2:48 that lower line that looks like 2/3 scratches together (only the one at the bottom) is pushing it, but that's about what you're gonna remove it you're really lucky. Now, are those rear sections in her paint, or could they be paint transfer? (I feel transfer is unlikely, but you'd get out lucky if so) The scratch in the center (above "a" in 'Clear Coat')is the only one you would want to tackle. In theory you could get the one that dips down into the base coat but you'd leave half of a very thin layer (look up microns) And you'd expose a minium of about an 8 inch area that could never be scratched again or you'd go through to primer.

Welcome! Where in the state you coming from?