85.5Pinin

Thanks Dan. Space is space and physics rules there but it would add 15 SKUs or so. That is nothing to manage. I know. Our little company has hundreds. The cost to do it is minimal and might create a whole new market for you. I did not explain myself correctly in my first comment. I understand that some chemicals have their own natural scent and colors. There is nothing that one can do about that. What I am referring to is that Adam’s adds it’s own fragrance and coloring to the chemicals. That is the part that I would eliminate or reduce dramatically. The Detail Spray has become so bad now that one must shower to remove it if it is used outside in any sort of gentle breeze. There have been many times after wiping down the car during a sale of show that I smell of detail spray. Thankfully I don’t use the coffee or pumpkin spice varieties. Not good for the person sitting next to you at dinner afterward. It dyes one’s hands pink and the it is difficult to get out of the towels. Several other products are that way too. It is not a major deal to some but to others it is a huge deal. Anyway, I am a very long term, very satisfied user of Adams products and I have heard this same thing from many others. Scent and color is not one’s primary criteria for one buying high end detailing products. Instead of spending money on dyes a scents, I think the money might be better spent on the chemicals that matter as it relates to results. Focus on the results and core business.

While I know that Adam loves his scented products and has used colors to simplify product usage, has making the products unscented and without dyes ever been considered? Some of us suffer from allergies and/or are sensitive to scents. Seems like a simple thing and would lower manufacturing costs. Maybe I am the only one with a sensitive nose but it would help me. Does anyone else think it might be a good idea?

Those wheels look really great. If I have success on the wheels, I am going to try it on all the blillet, chrome and stainless trim pieces too.

I currently use Liquid Paint Sealant on them which definitely helps but it would be really great to have something that lasts longer without looking like a clear coat finish. Metal Polish 1 & 2 is what I use to clean them after washing them with Car Shampoo and water. This process works pretty well and avoids the more harsh chemicals. I get about a month or two with the Paint Sealant so if Adam has several months on his that is a significant improvement.

Has anyone used the ceramic wheel coating on raw aluminum wheels? I have a set that must be constantly polished in order to remain clean and shiney. I am hoping that the ceramic coating will help reduce the maintenance and not stain the aluminum. There is no coating on the wheels and I would like to keep the high polish look.

Has anyone found good technique and products for cleaning the old, white vinyl headliners in vintage cars? This one has the typical water stains around the sunroof and is generally dirty.

It seems that Adam's has chosen not to support the Flex 3401. Will the new 6" pads work with the flex? I have always had great results with my Flex and I am quite disappointed that such a high quality, long lasting machine would not be supported. A polisher is not a disposable. I understand that business is business and I appreciate that perhaps the new equipment might be better. Having said that, one of the primary reasons that one buys from a premium product company is the support and service after the purchase. I have been an Adam's customer for a very long time and have always been extremely happy with everything Adam's. Not being able to buy pads from Adam's for the Flex is very disappointing. Has anyone found an alternative source for buying pads for the Flex?

The cars are mostly Italian from the late 50's through mid 80's. I was thinking that the microfiber pads might be more gentle than the foam but because the detailing guru says the foam is better I will use those on my Cyclo. I was also thinking that a coat of glaze might help before the Americana. Thanks for the help and advice!

Does anyone know what the best polish and wax/sealant is for vintage European paint? I know it was all single stage and solvent based back in the day. Thanks!!

I think less is probably more in this case and I like the distilled water idea. I can always go stronger if needed. I will try and post a few pictures. I have already have already taken the pictures of the mess so I will take the cleanup process this weekend, weather permitting, and post them f I can figure out how to do that. Thanks for all the help!

I blew an engine oil seal in my mint condition, original 1972 Fiat 850 Spider. Fortunately, I turned off the engine before any damage occurred but the engine bay is a mess. When I checked the dip stick, it was down 2 quarts of synthetic oil which wound up all over the engine and engine bay. I am interested hearing your thoughts on how best to clean it up without damaging the original yellow paint or electrical components. Thanks!!

Will Adam's be adding capability to the Cyclo with new attachment heads and products?

Cotton and micro fiber gloves. Reaches places that tools can't. Dremel tool.

Best method that I have found is a small leaf blower. I have one made by Stihl and it works great. Starts in the cold, works fast, easy and nothing touches the paint. This method has never hurt my paint.

Thank you Adam, fellow car nuts and all who help us help those in need. It is a tragedy beyond comprehension. We are doing the best we can to help our neighbors recover. Please feel free to pass along the Appleberry Attic - - Reusable Sandwich & Snack Bags website to your friends and family. The more people that see it the more we can help.