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teamcrossworks

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teamcrossworks last won the day on February 13 2016

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About teamcrossworks

  • Birthday 08/29/1961

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  • Location
    NJ
  • Real Name
    Kurt

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  1. Thankfully I have a few spray cans left of Adams Quick sealant. Does anyone know why Adams stopped producing this product? I've used many different products over the years and I still think this product on the face of a wheel as a last step gives the most "pop" of anything I've tried. Is it cancer causing or just a diamond lost in a sea of other fine jewels? Thanks for your thoughts...
  2. Absolutely! I always use it as a last "prep" after polishing before applying my top coat (ceramic, polymer coating or wax).
  3. I was wondering how you would strip wash a car that has been ceramic coated? A car came to me with significant swirls in need of correction but the owner said a ceramic coating had been applied recently. Normally I would strip wash, clay and polish. Any idea how to remove the ceramic coating or will it polish out with compound? Thanks
  4. My new favorite product is the Ceramic Boost used as a standalone. Easy to apply and wonderful shine and protection. I seem to use a lot of microfiber towels during the process to get the best results, which is fine but... My question is: Is the washing process for my microfiber towels any different with a "glass based" product than with the polish and wax based? I have my washing routine down but have been piling up the Microfiber until I know if I'm doing it right for the Boost contaminated towels. Thanks for the help.
  5. Thanks Chris, sounds like a plan. I use H2O often with daily drivers and "customer's" cars. I just thought the Boost might be a "harder" foundation with more clearness (don't really know why).
  6. My thought was to give the paint a nice foundation to protect it from an occasional bird bomb or similar nice day threats, then apply the glaze for some "pop" and finally some light protection and some more "pop" from a wax? The 30 year old paint is is amazing condition except for feather scratches and I don't expect to have to correct it again for a very long time... just my thoughts but that's why I ask. I'll post pictures as I go if interested.
  7. I'm experienced and very comfortable with Adams products... except maybe one...ceramic boost. I have not gotten into the ceramic stuff yet though I like the idea of just using the boost by itself. Here's the deal...I'm finally getting around to "correcting" my Porsche 1987 944 Turbo (Single Stage Paint / Guards Red) and would like some input ... Note: The car only gets driven on nice sunny days. This is the order I was thinking? wash strip clay polish brilliant glaze boost? maybe a wax if I'm still ambitious? What do you think?
  8. Bought it new: 1976 Gibson Les Paul Standard in red metallic (rare I'm told). I will post some pictures when I get home. The guitar is absolutely mint except for some very light scratching (probably from me wiping it down before I knew of microfiber). Since learning the "Adam's way", I wanted to polish it to make it perfect (of coarse) but never had the nerve. I may first try my skills on a 1994 Fender Strat in the same near perfect condition to test the waters...lol Thanks for the input.
  9. I've wondered the same... even to the point of polishing out some light scratches on a vintage Les Paul. Just never had the balls to give it a try. I assumed the finish was similar to that of a car but possibly lacquer instead of enamel? More input would be appreciated. Thx
  10. Thanks everyone! The first "before" picture was after using a pressure washer (always do, to answer Joel) and like I said two doses of Adam's Wheel Cleaner. I tried other wheel cleaners as well and they didn't even touch the stuff. I would consider the wheel coating (Chris) but as of yet I haven't made that purchase and I'm hoping if I keep up my normal wash routine they will not get as far gone as this. Since the car is a lease it will be gone before next winter but I will certainly prep better for the season than I did this year. My neighbors think I'm insane for spending so much time on my car so thank you for letting me share with others like me...lol
  11. I finally found the only product that seemed to get the "crud" off... lot's and lot's of elbow grease! I can't believe how difficult it was to get this sh*t off. The only thing I could think was that the "brine" they use for snow mixed with the brake dust and road grime creating a "hybrid crud". I used two complete 16oz bottles of Adams Wheel Cleaner and a full bar of clay. It took me at least 3 hours a wheel (including polishing the barrels with a PC7424 / Adams Correcting Polish and sealing them with Adams Paint Sealant). I hopefully will never be in this situation again. Before: After two doses of wheel cleaner
  12. "Have you tried a little Revive to see if it takes the crud off!" yes with no luck...
  13. Thank you all in advance for your suggestions... I have a 2014 Volvo XC90 and I guess I was negligent over the winter because I now have what I assume is baked on "crud" that I'm having a tough time getting off. The wheels are factory painted silver and I usually just use the old Green Wheel Cleaner (still have a gallon or so) (maybe some clay) and don't have too much trouble getting them perfect. In their present state of filth, I've tried the old wheel cleaner, the new wheel cleaner (doesn't turn purple so I believe the brake pads are organic not metallic), Revive polish, some old swirl and haze remover on a MF, prep-sol (thinking it may be a tar like substance and just plain APC. Nothing seems to break down the "crud". Using clay or my finger nail I can eventually get it off but to do all four wheels would take me forever. Any thoughts?
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